Aftermarket Audio/Video Install Talk

[Laxin2123]

Wanted to start a thread that was dedicated to Audio/Video installs since a lot of people are beginning to venture into this.

[Laxin2123]

Wanted to start a thread that was dedicated to Audio/Video installs since a lot of people are beginning to venture into this.

[Laxin2123]

It seems like the PAC OS-2 is the route installs are going? My question, is the Metra os-4 compatable? It seems that it is a direct plugin which would make it alot easier to install. Thoughts?

Plans for install:

Kenwood Excelon DDX-8017 Headunit
Kenwood LZ-800w 8" monitors for Headrests
Kenwood KNA-DV4100 Navigation unit
JL 500/1 Amp
Jl 8w7 Sub

[UNOMYFLO]

I have the base audio system in my H3 with the exception of putting the monsoon 6-disc head in.

I want to add an aftermarket 4 channel amp and possibly a bazooka tube. Can someone please tell me what needs to be done to integrate this into the stock system? I dont want to cut anything up...are there adapter plugs that can tie in an amp? I know I need to get pwr and ground and the remote turn on to the amp,,,but how do I get the signal from the head to the amp, plus I believe all my speaker leads run to the back of the head and when the amp is installed they will have to run off of it and I plan on mounting it in the rear, possibly in the drivers rear storage bin...I might get a 200w 10" bazooka and strap it down in the rear...anyone have any experience with these bazookas?...I know they have their limitations but I am not looking to enter sound competitions just want some bass that is lacking now...plus the flexability of removing it at a moments notice.

Thanks Mike

[kodiakz]

Laxin--Skip the PAC and use Soundgate or Peripheral. I have used all three and the latter 2 companies seem to be much higer quality pieces and have much better tech support.
UNOMYFLO--Check out the Infinity BAss link. Great sound amd performance from a relatively small package. You will need an adaptor to use an aftermarket amp with your oem head (I think it is a GMAA, but need to verfify that, it also depends upon which system you have originally). With the amp, you will need a fused 12v battery lead and the turn on lead will come from the adaptor, as will the rca outs for your signal. You will need to intercept the speaker wires, but this is the easy part and there are a few convenient places to tie into them. Ground needs to be heavy, directly to chassis, and as short as possilbe. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

[UNOMYFLO]

I have the base sound system (not the monsoon) however I scored a monsoon 6 disc head and have it in and running. The volume has dropped off since I did this, sincce the 6 disc head is meant to be used with the monsoon amp, my old head must have had an amp in it (the volume was much louder), but the 6-dic does have power because I still hav volume control it is just at 3/4 now for normal listening where I had th stock single disc head and 1/4 volume. This is why I have the need for the external amp.

Can you get a definite on the adapter I will need? As you say it will just plug into the back of the head? between the head and factory harness?

Plus like I said I want to mount the amp in the back drivers side storage bin, although you might have a better location? whatever is the easiest to tie in the exhisting speaker leads to the amp (can you elaborate on this)? I am assuming I can grab them all at the back of the head since I dont currently have an amp in the H3? Might be better to have the amp under the seat? (I dont have power seats so I might have room under there?) would make the speaker lead runs shorter then if the amp was in the back of the truck, plus the +12v lead from the batt would be much shorter and I could grab the ground at one of the seat mounting bolts.


If you could direct me to the proper adapter (good quality) part number and perhaps a soucce to buy it and let me know on the amp mounting and the specifics on tieing it all in I would greatly appreciate it. I would like to keep the cutting to a minimum..

Thanks so much

Mike

[Laxin2123]

Kodiakz thanks for the info. I looked up Soundgate and found the SOUNDGATE DIGISTAR-X Class 2 Radio Interface. Is this what I would need to have both on-star and chime functionallity?

[kodiakz]

Laxin2123, actually you need the Digistar not the 'x'. According to Soundgate that is the one that works even if you have Monsoon.

UNOMYFLO, actually, I think you could just use a Soundgate LOC4.4 line output converter and call it good. If you are getting signal straight out of the head, then you will not need a databus adaptor. Since you already have all speaker wires at the head, that would be a good place to catch them all at once. As far as mounting the amp under the seat, that will depend upon the space under there and the size of the amp you choose. Are you going to use a 5 channel amp for everything or a four channel and go with the self powered sub? Give me some dimensions of the available room under the seat. If you do it right, you shouldn't have to 'cut' much at all!!!

[UNOMYFLO]

I would probably go bass link man I looked at i and like it.

Probably a real nice channel amp to run the doors and tweets.

What isthe deal with the onstar and the chime?

using that adapter will all of that be retained?

plus will that adapter give me what I need to hook up the 4 channel amp and a set of rca's to tie in the bass link? I like that the bass link has a remote level adjustment feature...do you have a link/pic for the adapter? what is the cost?
Thanks for all the help man.

M

[Laxin2123]

Alright good stuff...I just ordered it so we shall see how it goes. I will post pics and info as the install progresses.

[First Hummer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Laxin2123:
Alright good stuff...I just ordered it so we shall see how it goes. I will post pics and info as the install progresses. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

dont forget about the purple wires in the factory harness that need to be connected together when you remove factory radio.

[Laxin2123]

[/QUOTE]dont forget about the purple wires in the factory harness that need to be connected together when you remove factory radio.[/QUOTE]

Go it. Hopefully this is a pain free install..


Has anyone installed a backup camera yet. I want to get some ideals on placement for a Day/Night camera. One ideal was to mount on inside window of the rear door but some say that with the tint vision wont be that great and at night would be worthless.

[kodiakz]

UNOMYFLO, that adaptor only intercepts the speaker leads from the rear of the radio and converts them into low level (rca type) signal and then you run cables from there to your amp. You will not be interfering with the chime or onstar so no need to worry about that at all.

[UNOMYFLO]

Kodiakz bear with me so I get the GMAA Plug it in between the oem harness and the radio...it has pigtails (which are rca Jacks) they run to the (new amp that I install).

I still have to get the speaker leads to the amp right?

How will the infinity bass link get it signal?

Does the GMAA have 3 sets of rca's? front rear and perhaps one for a sub?

or can I use a set of Y rca's to split the rear rca from the adapter to get a set to the sub??

Plus can you give me a specific on the GMAA (adapter)?

I need a part number and the best/cheapest source to get it I want to do this install...the no volume thing is driving me crazy... I think keeping the stock speakers for now, adding a real nice 4 channel amp and the bass link I should be in business...at a later date I can get a nice set of front and rear door speakers and all should be well...I have heard the door speakers are running at 2ohms is this a problem when trying to upgrade? what have others put in?

I cant remember the site but I found the bass link for 186.00 200 and change shipped which was like 80+ dollars less than anywhere else but the review of the site was bad out of stock poor customer service etc. who has the best price on this piece and does anyone have any experience with it (bass link)? I dont want to make a bad purchase but I like the fact I can tuck it in the back and remove it with a quick disconnect molex plug if need be.

Has anyone sourced nice upgrade speakers for the doors? they look like 51/4's is that what they are at least that is what they look like in the rear doors. what size are the doors front and rear and the tweets? I would imagine depth might be an issue as well, probably a good idea to baffle them also as the stocker arent. plus the stock speakers in the rear doors index in a notch out and are help in with 1 phillips screw, I wonder how a stock speaker would fit in there I guess a few more holes ned to be drilled.


Thanks for the help I really appreciate it.

UNOMYFLO

[kodiakz]

UNOMYFLO,
I am sorry as I think I am confusing you more than helping!! You will not need the GMAA as I stated, only a four channel high to low level converter. Further, you will not interfere with onstar or the databus in any way so no need for other adaptors. If you get a four channel amp that has a pass through or a line level out with crossover you will be set. If not, you will simply need to 'Y' one of the sets from the deck. $186 for the basslink is dead cost so I would say that is a pretty good deal!!!!! Infinity, ADS, Focal, and MB Quart are all good choices for the door speakers and no need to really worry about impedances as most amps will be fine down to 2 ohms even though you will probably be at 4 ohms or slightly higher as you will need to use the passive crossovers that come with the new speaks. Phew, hope that gets you further down the upgrade road!

[UNOMYFLO]

Ok I got ya..

What is the best brand and perhaps a part number for the four channel high to low level converter?

Basically plug it in line behind the radio run the rca's to the amp (4channel with a pass through, hopefull a low pass) for the bass link....cool I got it.

Any suggestions for a real nice hi power 4 channel amp with a lo pass through for the bass link?

What is the size of the door speakers and tweets for the upgrade??

all I would ned to do then is run power and ground and remote turn on to the 4 channel amp and bass link...then tie in the door speakers to the 4channel amp right?

Hey would the adapter's remote turn on lead be enough to power both the 4 channel amp and the bass link?

****Let me know on the best hi to low converter and where to get it...plus if you can tell me what the door and tweet speaker sizes are I am set..
like you said the adapter wont interfear with the door chime or the onstar right?

Thanks Bro

UNOMYFLO

[UNOMYFLO]

1 more quick question does this adapter have the leads for the speakers pigtailing off of it or do I have to grab the speaker leads in the doors or behind the head??

On the stock system with no amp all the leads are at the back of the head anyway right? would be nice to have an adapter that throws the leads out for you to tie in at he back of the head and run short leads to the amp, which I'll probably put under the drivers seat, so the longest leads will be the pwr and remote turn on to the bass link...I can grab the ground for it in the back.

All the other wires will run from the back of the head to under the drivers seat.
Lemme know
UNOMYFLO

[UNOMYFLO]

Here is the link for the basslink a bit more than I quoted but damn near 90+ less than many others...the store had some bad feedback Iwill call and do the deal over the phone and MAKE SURE they have the part..

http://www.dealznet.com/basslink.html

what do ya think...will this hit well??

again I am not looking to win sound offs just want some real nice bass in the H3...

[kodiakz]

4-Channel Line Output Converter by Soundgate

The LOC4.4 is the 4 channel version of our extremely popular LOC4.2.
#LOC4.4
$87.95
This will SPLICE into the the speaker leads from the radio and convert them into clean low level. Then you will connect rca cables to the LOC and run to the amp. The loc does not have a turn on lead, but I believe that the the base and even Monsoon heads (neither using class II databus) have switched outs for amp turn on but I need to verify this. YOu will then run 4 spraker sets from the amp back to the head unit and tie into the wires that go to the speakers. The loc does not tie into anything other than speaker leads so no need to worry about chime/onstar. PPi, Eclipse, and Zapco have very nice amps; Alpine, Kicker, Fosgate etc have decent amps for the $$. I really like ADS, Focal, Boston Pro, and CD TEch speakers. The unit in your pic is last year's Basslink, but that was a darn nice unit--easy to install, sounds great, and very durable.

[UNOMYFLO]

SPLICE? UGHHHHH

You mean its not a molex plug that goes in between the back of the head and the factory radio molex with pigtails coming off of it for the speaker connections runnning from the amp?

I can see connecting (the new speaker leads from the amp to the molex speaker pigtails) but I am interpreting what you are saying is I need to cut the factory harness to grab the speak wires from the back of the head?

I do not have the monsoon system but I do have a monsoon head in and working can you confirm the remote turn on for me and help me find which wire it is?

I am debating on wheather or not to get the clear basslink or the black one from pricegrabber.com

clear is 208 plus 25 ship

the black is 179 plus 25 to ship

I am digging the clear but I think the black would blend better in the back of the H3 as all the lower plastic is black..

price is sweet though for sure...right

how can I tell if it is last years or not?


school me on the splice deal ok...thanks for being patient with me man...I really dont want to cut the factory radio harness if I dont have to...

UNOMYFLO

[UNOMYFLO]

Im killin ya i know...

if i run 1 side of the 2 channel amp to the rears can i use the other side of the amp(2channels) to run the frint doors and tweets? if yes will I have to put a capacitor in to lessen the power to the tweets to keep from blowing them?

plus it seems like the factory speakers can handle a good ammount of power do you think I can run them for a while then upgrade? or do you think the addition of the amp will blow them or make them see to much power, also will the fact that they run at 2ohms and the amp will probably be a 4ohm will it even work to keep the factory speakers?

I would like to keep them for a while then swap them out later if I can..

thanks

I just ordered the black basslink 204.97 to my door... : > )

[UNOMYFLO]

I guess I will also need to find out from someone which wires are what on the back of the head as far as which ones to cut to tie in the LOC4.4 R&L front and rear speaker leads...does anyone know which they are on the 6 disc monsoon head?

also what happens to the power the factory head puts out through those leads? will it hurt the LOC4.4? what happens to that power?

[kodiakz]

Yes, you will need to slpice. But that is not really a big deal if you do it correctly. Get the black basslink as it will show very little in the way of wear or dirt. With a 4 channel amp, you will use 2 for the front which will run to passive crossovers that come with the mid/tweet sets (no need to worry about caps), and the other 2 channels to the rear 2-way speakers (no need to spend too much $$ on components for the rear). The oem speakers will actually do better with more power than with the oem head as you are hitting them with a good deal of distortion as the oem head is failing to achieve the desired sound level without cranking it up all the way.

[UNOMYFLO]

Ok sounds great I found the Loc4.4 for 56 bucks.

I still need to know what size the speakers are in the H3??

I get ya on the front set, I can run new speak wires to the passive crossovers from the tweets and I might run new ones from the front doors as the stock speaker wires look real weak as far as the guage of wiring used..

I might go infinity reference on the front spearates and in the rear doors and I might get a good infinity 4 channel amp to keep the system all Infinity..

what 4 channel amp wpoulf you suggest as far as the infinitys go and what power output?

so to sum it up I ned the dimenbsions of the sprahers in the H3 tweets front doors and rear doors....

plus I need a suggestion for the Infinity amp as far as a model and the power you would suggest...also it would need a pass through..I see the basslink has a crossover built in which is adjustable...yeah I got the black it will blend in with the H3 better and like you say keep the dirt/dust to a minimum.

I was thinking of how nice it would be to mount it behind the drivers rear panel similar to where the monsoon amp/sub is located ( i didnt get the monsoon system), I know bass is undirectional, if it would fit back there do you think it would sound ok there? I know on the monsoon equipped H3's the rear drivers panel has a grille in it that the monsoon sub fires through? what are your thoughts on this? It would free up the back and actuall probably sound bettter than the monsoon with the integration fo the basslink and a real nice 4 channel amp and the speakers upgraded...


I am getting stoked on the upgrade, once I get all the parts I will knock out the install.

DO you know if there is a remote turn on in the factory molex plug (non-monsoon)???

If not what do I need to do to turn the amp and basslink on?

remember I have the monsoon head but have the in car wiring for the bass stereo system. I have studied the wiring diagrams for both systems and it appears the monsoon equipped systems have low level outs/and raditionalk speaker leads to the rear amp(in the factory wiring) The base (non-monsooon system does not) it has only the traditional speaker wires off the molex..


Thanks Man, let me know on the speaker sizes and Infinity amp and speaker choice, perhaps the reference speakers would be nice?

Thanka again for all the help
UNOMYFLO