Just bought 12 volt fridge on e bay [Archive]

fourfourto

01-25-2006, 11:21 AM

I should have it in about a week.It should fit behind console with room to open rear cup holder.Rear right seat can still fold down,I have to make some kind of removable mount(velcro) for folding down left side.Holds 8 cans it has a double insulated glass door.I might paint the back part black.Hopefully it will mount were I want otherwise I will put in cargo area.Probobly tap in to 12 volt outlet so its on while driving and 20 minutes after.I will post pics when I receive it.
12 volt fridge on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7211771489&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1)

fourfourto

01-25-2006, 11:21 AM

f5fstop

01-25-2006, 07:47 PM

Please take some photos of it in the vehicle, if you could. Will be getting something like this before heading to the desert later this year.
Will you be wiring it into the RAP circuit? Since the accessory plugs are hot at all times, so if you leave it plugged in, it could drain the battery

fourfourto

01-25-2006, 08:04 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Since the accessory plugs are hot at all times, so if you leave it plugged in, it could drain the battery </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I thought the accessory plugs went off in 20 minutes.http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_confused.gifI could have swore I read here that its timed out.

I noticed back of front console has a lip on bottom and the backs not flat also I must leave room for console lid to flip. Theres definatly room to open cup holder though I dont beleve the fridge door will open all the way.I have to play with it and make some kind of mount.Otherwise it will go in the cargo area but I prefer it in the back seat.The right side rear seat has room to fold down without removing fridge.

Ill list pics when I get it and figure out what to do.

Mark805

01-25-2006, 09:23 PM

.... gonna go outbid you http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_cool.gif

I thought I read the 20 minute thing somewhere too.

DDWH

01-25-2006, 09:30 PM

Looks cool, make sure to post your install pics! http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

fourfourto

01-25-2006, 09:37 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">.... gonna go outbid you </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Its on its way auction ended.They probobly have more up.I checked prices online but this was best deal.

Anyone know for sure if those outlets go off or not after 20 minutes

f5fstop

01-25-2006, 10:54 PM

Three reasons why I am positive they don't go out in 20 minutes.
One, they are not shown on the GM RAP circuit schematics.
Two, the GM schematics for the accessory plugs show:
One of the front ones (I assume the left) is powered through the 20A AUX PWR 1 Fuse (51), while the other front one, and the rear is fed through the 30A AUX PWR 2 Fuse (45), and both fuses are connected via the underhood fuse block bus to the RED wire that connects directly to the battery.
I have plugged in my GPS and left it overnight, but when I come out in the AM to get in the H3, the Green power light is on and I can see it in the window before I hit the remote.

BABHUMV

01-25-2006, 10:57 PM

One reason I am sure. I had a dead battery with one of those fridges one morning. Experience is the best teacher.

fourfourto

01-26-2006, 12:00 AM

Thanks f5fstop I thought I read they went off.
figured you were right I havent heard of you being wrong yet.
I guess I have to tap in a rap circuit maybee put a 12 outlet under seat on that metal plate.Does the harness underneath the seat have a rap circuit ?

Im suprised they put my lighter in the left port if the right one is higher amp

fourfourto

01-26-2006, 11:07 AM

I guess the right socket is 30 amps because it also runs the cargo one.

Is there a way to tap into the dome light it has rundown protection after 20 minutes.Its better for the fridge than rap because rap goes of when you open and shut door if hooked up to dome circuit it would stay on for 20 minutes after leaving truck.

KenP

01-26-2006, 02:39 PM

Damn, $35! I could get a couple dozen of those instead of one ARB. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif

Can't you just plug it into a cig lighter?

fourfourto

01-26-2006, 03:07 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Can't you just plug it into a cig lighter? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thats to easy. Then I got to remember to shut it off or risk dead battery.

Damn, $35! I could get a couple dozen of those instead of one ARB.
Where?

KenP

01-26-2006, 05:45 PM

http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com/ARBaccessories/

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> ARB 33 Quart Freezer/Fridge
The smallest of the three ARB Freezer/Fridges, the 33 quart model is a great choice for those who go out on day trips and the occasional weekend outing. Its 33 quart size allows you to carry your drinks, sandwiches and snacks and keep them ice cold.

ARB 33 quart Freezer/Fridge - $664.95

ARB 42 Quart Freezer/Fridge
The intermediate size ARB Freezer/Fridge, the 42 quart is the fridge to choose if you go need more storage space for larger groups or for longer trips away from civilization. This Freezer/Fridge has almost the same size footprint as the smaller 33q Freezer/Fridge, but gets its additional capacity through its extra height. This fridge stows well in the area created by folding down the short side of a Discovery's back seat. It also fits well when mounted sideways between the wheel wells of a Defender.

ARB 42 quart Freezer/Fridge - $734.95

ARB 63 Quart Freezer/Fridge
The largest of the three Freezer/Fridges, the 63 quart is the fridge to choose for those who go on long expeditions or travel with large groups. It's cavernous 63 quart capacity means that you can carry more food for those extended trips away from civilization. The footprint of the 63 Quart Freezer/Fridge is a bit larger than that of the smaller two models, but this is more than offset by its ability to carry significantly larger volumes of food.

ARB 63 quart Freezer/Fridge - $979.95 </div></BLOCKQUOTE>$35 X 19 = $665 33 quart ARB
$35 X 21 = $735 42 quart ARB
$35 X 28 = $980 63 quart ARB

I think I'll go the route you did.

fourfourto

01-26-2006, 07:25 PM

Damn, $35! I could get a couple dozen of those instead of one ARB

I thought you were being a wise a s s saying you could get 12 of mine for $35.00 wasnt sure about arb http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

This will hold 8 cans 6 liter capacity.Those ones you listed belong in a camper.

I want to leave it in all the time(stocked of course) It came in today but wifes got the h3 Ill mess with it on sunday.Might paint the white part black .

f5fstop

01-26-2006, 07:35 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by fourfourto:
I guess the right socket is 30 amps because it also runs the cargo one.

Is there a way to tap into the dome light it has rundown protection after 20 minutes.Its better for the fridge than rap because rap goes of when you open and shut door if hooked up to dome circuit it would stay on for 20 minutes after leaving truck. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, all interior lights have rundown protection. (Which I'll add here for others, rundown protection and RAP are different.)
However, the draw of a the cooler might be too large for tapping into the dome light circuit, unless you wire in a relay. Just wire in the coil side of the relay to the dome lamp, and run a B+ line (could be one from the accessory plug) for the switched side, that would work and not overpower the dome fuse or more importantly the dome wiring.

Using your idea, it would not be hard to make the rear accessory plug (or one of the front ones) turn off after twenty minutes, just be adding in a simple relay somewhere in the rear panel.

fourfourto

01-26-2006, 07:56 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Just wire in the coil side of the relay to the dome lamp </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Were is the dome light wire.
This is small fridge its also a warmer.

On fridge is listed Nominal current draw 3.6 amps fuse rating 10 amp.
How can I tell if dome circuit can handle the load?

Any aftermarket auto shutoff options?

I was thinking of putting a 12 volt socket under seat instead of hard wiring it.Rather tap right in but if I need a relay Ill put one in.I have one installed for my airhorn.

I could just plug it in but I dont like the looks and trouble with unpluging all the time.

f5fstop

01-26-2006, 10:35 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by fourfourto:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Just wire in the coil side of the relay to the dome lamp </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Were is the dome light wire. At the dome lamp.http://hometown.aol.com/f5fstop01/images/yellow%20rolling%20on%20floor%20laughing.gif
I would tap into one of the orange wires going to the footwell courtesy lamps. Checking the wiring diagrams, and on the H3, the rundown protection is not controlled through a relay as in other vehicles (I keep forgetting the H3 is one of the vehicles using the newer style BCMs.)
The BCM actually supplies the power directly to the courtesy lamps versus power a relay as in other systems. This reinforces a relay should be used.
In this system, not only does the BCM supply the direct voltage for the lights, it also supplies the ground switch to turn each one on depending on switch input. Therefore, I highly suggest a low resistance relay. If you wired the cooler right into the circuit, the BCM might sense the extra current flow and pop a code, thinking there is a short to power in the lines.
So, I would recommend splicing off one of the green wires from either footwell courtesy lamp, attaching this to the coil side of the relay to power up the relay.
Then for the switch side of the relay, tap into one of the orange wires going to an accessory plug. (If it was me, right where I splice into the accessory wire, I would also install a 10 amp fuse, this is just a safety feature I like to do when tapping into wires. If a fuse is installed, install the fuse as close to its power supply as possible-in this case the orange wire at the accessory plug.)
Then run a wire from the relay to under the seat, and you can also get a ground under the seat too.
This is small fridge its also a warmer.

On fridge is listed Nominal current draw 3.6 amps fuse rating 10 amp.
How can I tell if dome circuit can handle the load?

Any aftermarket auto shutoff options?Yes, they do sell electronic timer relays.

I was thinking of putting a 12 volt socket under seat instead of hard wiring it.Rather tap right in but if I need a relay Ill put one in.I have one installed for my airhorn.

I could just plug it in but I dont like the looks and trouble with unpluging all the time. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

fourfourto

01-26-2006, 10:51 PM

Thanks f5fstop Im going to see about getting a timer relay first maybee the time could be longer like 1hr or 2 hrs.

I could make things easy by just hooking up to a rap ciruit than a relay wouldnt be needed.
I just want the fridge to shut off

I made a note like always of the wiring.its good to have reference for future projects.I sugest everyone do the same.Ill see if pep boys or auto zone has the timer im going there saturday for the 12 outlet for under the seat.Think ill need some velcro too.Maybee ill sit it in the truck tommorow and get some pics .

KenP

01-27-2006, 04:14 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by fourfourto:
Damn, $35! I could get a couple dozen of those instead of one ARB

I thought you were being a wise a s s saying you could get 12 of mine for $35.00 wasnt sure about arb http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I knew you must have mis-read what I typed. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

f5fstop

01-27-2006, 09:03 AM

For those long periods, just rememeber that the nominal was 3.5A; therefore it could jump when it's compressor or heater unit kicks in and possibly draw up to 5 amps.
In addition, a 2 amp draw on a 690 cca battery can drain the battery in 6 hours. Not sure the size in the Hummer, but do not believe it is in the 500 range (anyone know...guess I could check). So, just be careful if you are out in the boonies http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif
You also have a normal parasitic load on the battery, depending on option content (more computers, more drain).

fourfourto

01-27-2006, 02:22 PM

It seems to tight of a spot in the back seat.The console lid hits fridge when opening,the door only opens part way the cup holder does open .The front console is angled so its hard to mount it,I think im going to put it in the cargo area.

I think the best way to wire it is through a rap that way when I leave truck it will shut off.
Is there a rap wire near the cargo area?

I could wire it to rear outlet and use electronic timer relay but if outlet is powered all the time how would the relay reset?Im not sure how they work.Ill have to go to auto parts store and see.any ideas.

Below are several pics

fridge behind console

fourfourto

01-27-2006, 02:23 PM

fridge with cup holder down

fourfourto

01-27-2006, 02:24 PM

fridge with door open,notice it doesnt open that much

fourfourto

01-27-2006, 02:28 PM

fridge with console lid open,it pushes fridge up on angle if mounted lid wouldnt open all the way

fourfourto

01-27-2006, 02:48 PM

fridge up against console,notice top of fridge is a couple inches or so from console it would need to be attached for suport.than console lid wouldnt open enough.

fourfourto

01-27-2006, 02:49 PM

I think its going here in cargo area.Notice cord from net locked in to handle of fridge to stablize it.
Just need way to power using rap circuit so battery doesnt go dead and it will be on while driving.The manual says you can unplug and bring it with you and it will stay cold for a few hours

DDWH

01-27-2006, 03:49 PM

Is there room to mount it on either side where the side panels are? I am trying to reember how much space was there from memory http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

fourfourto

01-27-2006, 04:08 PM

Do you mean inside pannel,I dont beleve theres room and I really dont want to cut into panel.
Any pics of cargo area with pannel removed ?.I didnt try to see if it fit in compartment I dont think it will I beleve it has to be upright.

I really wanted clean install look but in the cargo area will work.
Im mostly going to use on trips but it would be nice to have a couple sodas, waters ,and beers in there all the time.

My wife took the H3 to work Ill play with it on sunday.

Any rap wires in the cargo area?
Any info on timer relays ?.

f5fstop

01-27-2006, 08:00 PM

Rear wiper works on the RAP circuit, and pretty sure it runs down the left side of the vehicle since that is the hinge side.
Most timer relays I have seen will set their internal time when power is lost. They reset when power is applied again. So, a RAP circuit might be good for this application.
But if using an electronic timer relay, I would just recommend tapping into the accessory plug circuit. Since the RAP goes off when the door is opened, that only gives you a max of 20 minutes if you remained in the vehicle.
If you got a timer with 2 hours, then the accessory power would be ok. But the final decision is yours.
Some of the first RAP circuits used by GM were used with timer relays that when ignition power was removed, they would stay powered up for a specified time. Eventually, GM migrated the control of a normal relay via the BCM. The BCM would power up a relay at start up, and turn it off twenty minutes after the power was lost, or a door switch indicated a door was opened.
Now, with the newer BCMs (like on the H3), the BCM operates the RAP circuit directly without any relay in the circuit.
Change is good... http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif
Someday soon, you will see a VCM (Vehicle Control Module) a module that will control all the required electronics on the vehicle; a combination of the BCM, PCM, Brake Control Module, and all other modules. It will be programmable to handle either an auto or a manual, with or without ABS/TC/Handling. It might even incorporate XM and Onstar.

fourfourto

01-27-2006, 08:11 PM

If you got a timer with 2 hours, then the accessory power would be ok.

If I hook a timer relay to accessory outlet in back how would it reset if the outlets always hot.

The rap wire in tailgate is it live when trucks running or switched by wippers? color ?

Im a pain in the ass

f5fstop

01-27-2006, 08:33 PM

Very good points, and yes you are right.
One, the relay would never reset with the accessory power.
Two, the RAP feed to the rear wiper is via the switch on I/P; I wasn't thinking correctly (do I ever? Besides it's FRIDAY http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif)
So, it appears the closest and easiest feed for RAP power is off this switch, since it is very easy to remove that center I/P trim panel.

fourfourto

01-27-2006, 08:44 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">So, it appears the closest and easiest feed for RAP power is off this switch, since it is very easy to remove that center I/P trim panel. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
So if I use the wire on the rear wipers at the switch I wouldnt need any relay.
Do you know color otherwise Ill use a test light.
souldnt be hard to run a wire from dash to cargo area.
It has to go in cargo area in back seet doesnt seem to work out as shown in picks.

I wasn't thinking correctly (do I ever? Besides it's FRIDAY )

fourfourto

01-27-2006, 09:06 PM

Also f5 I searched rear panel removal all I got is info on you e mailing to others could you e mail it to me at fourfourto@yahoo.com I think Ill put a 12 volt outlet under the one in the cargo area and have it hooked up to rap,
thanks

f5fstop

01-27-2006, 10:03 PM

It's the yellow wire going into the switch. There is a 15 amp fuse on that particular circuit, so it would be safe to run the cooler or the heater BUT ONLY if the rear wipers were not on. If they were on, and the cooler, I would almost bet you would blow a fuse. When a wiper starts up out of park, it requires quite a power surge, then levels off, and the rear wiper is intermittent so it parks every sweep.
But remember that, it should be ok.
But it would not be hard to run to an auto supply and pick up a relay.
Connect the yellow wire to the coil side of the relay, and the other other side of the coil connect to the black wire at the switch. The coil will be energized anytime the RAP circuit is powered up.
Then run a power wire from the accessory plug next to the switch, to the relay, and run a wire from the relay back to the location in the rear panel.

I'll send off the removal procedure.

f5fstop

01-27-2006, 10:07 PM

l think I sent the procedure, let me know. I didn't get a notification that it was sent correctly.

fourfourto

01-27-2006, 10:37 PM

I got it thanks

There is a 15 amp fuse on that particular circuit, so it would be safe to run the cooler or the heater BUT ONLY if the rear wipers were not on. If they were on, and the cooler, I would almost bet you would blow a fuse. When a wiper starts up out of park, it requires quite a power surge, then levels off, and the rear wiper is intermittent so it parks every sweep.
But remember that, it should be ok.

The fridge will be on all time so if I hit the wiper I could have problems.Is there another rap that would be better ?.I rather cut into 1 wire than 3 using relay.
But if you think it should be ok I could try it if it blowes a fuse I can put in a relay.
I dont use that 1/3 stroke rear wiper to much anyway , not that you can see anything out of the rear window .I have the rear cam up most of the time.It works good in the rain

fourfourto

01-27-2006, 11:44 PM

Are there any rap wires in the back were the trailering wires are ?
Does the power wire for the back outlet run up into the dash were I can cut wire and splice into rap wire making the rear outlet rap?

fourfourto

01-28-2006, 09:00 PM

Im gonna work on it tommorow any ideas on last posts?

KenP

01-28-2006, 09:05 PM

Since I don't kow what the hell RAP Circuit is, couldn't you just wire it to an ACC fuse like I did for my CB install?

http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/frm/f/6706011751

This shuts off when you turn the truck off.

DRTYFN

01-28-2006, 10:03 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by fourfourto:
I should have it in about a week.It should fit behind console with room to open rear cup holder.Rear right seat can still fold down,I have to make some kind of removable mount(velcro) for folding down left side.Holds 8 cans it has a double insulated glass door.I might paint the back part black.Hopefully it will mount were I want otherwise I will put in cargo area.Probobly tap in to 12 volt outlet so its on while driving and 20 minutes after.I will post pics when I receive it.
12 volt fridge on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7211771489&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1) </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Cheap POS. Those only cool a certain amount in relation to the ambient temperature. So if it's 100 degrees your drink will be 60 degrees, but if it's 50 it won't do much.

Should have stepped up and bought an ARB. I've had frosty beers on 100 degree days. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

fourfourto

01-28-2006, 11:09 PM

Since I don't kow what the hell RAP Circuit is, couldn't you just wire it to an ACC fuse like I did for my CB install?

RAP= Retained Accessory Power circuit stays on when key removed but shuts off when you open door for sunroof ,radio,on star windows ect.

If acc is accessory fuse the accessory outlets in the H3 are powered all the time.I could probobly hook it to a different fuse but I was trying to tap in as close to the cargo area as posible.

Cheap POS. Those only cool a certain amount in relation to the ambient temperature. So if it's 100 degrees your drink will be 60 degrees, but if it's 50 it won't do much.

My parents have a simular one and it works good in fla.Most of the time it will be for trips so temperture in car wont be 100 deg. Those ARBs a huge and expensive I have a huge cooler for camping and beach, beers are better on ICE thats nice.

fourfourto

01-29-2006, 04:12 PM

The wire on the rear wiper switch seems thin I dont think its a good idea going there.

The trailering wires wont work either.

There is a heavy wire that will work on the blower switch , But its only powered up with key foward(truck running) it is not powered when on accessory or key out position.This one might be the best because it will only power fridge when running.If im at a drive in with the radio on for a few hours the fridge wont run so less chance off battery going dead.The manual on fridge says you can unplug and it will stay cold for a few hours so I think this is the easyist way and most practical. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

f5fstop

01-29-2006, 05:09 PM

That is why, I believe I have been suggesting a relay to prevent any problems with blowing fuses, or even worse, cooking the vehicle.
The current draw to activate a relay is minimal, the current draw for the cooler is not.
Not sure what else I can say; other than if you want to wire in a large current draw device safely in to the vehicle, a relay is required.
And it is not a bad idea to install an inline fuse for the power circuit to the cooler, right where you tap into at the relay.

Many of the off-road lights people are installing have a current draw of 7-9 amps, and they are using relays with fuses to control the circuit. Your cooler has a nominal draw of 3.5 amps; therefore, it could draw more.

fourfourto

01-29-2006, 05:31 PM

Yeh your right as always going to tap in to rear wiper with relay tap in to 12 volt at accessory plug tap into ground in that cluster for the trailer brake under wheel and put 10 amp fuse on + off of relay.I have to go to store and get a relay and some tap ins .I might as well do it properly .Its raining now so I get to it during the week.

Thanks for all the info I usualy spend more thinking and futzing with things than it takes to acually do it. All this for a freekin little fridge.GM should have had at least one of the accessory outlets work with the RAP, in my 2004 murano both outlets were RAP

f5fstop

01-29-2006, 06:30 PM

Do you really need the RAP? It goes out when you open the door, so it won't buy you that much time.

fourfourto

01-29-2006, 07:22 PM

I coulds use the blower for key foward (truck running)or use the rear wiper for key fwd + back on accy. the open door shut off doesnt matter .I think I want it to run fridge on accy back so ill go with the rear wiper.My wife watches burned dvds of soap operas during lunch with key in accy position ,that way in the summer it will keep drinks cool for her. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif It wouldnt be left on accy for more than a hour or so, not enough to kill battery. Same reason for when at the drive in movies .