RUST PREVENTION & #8 cylinder.

[siloboy]

Hi Guys,
As the open top of my 2000 H1 doesn't have much in the way of sheet steel, are extra rust prevention measures still a good idea, especially on the salted roads of the north?
Also, I've been advised that if a suspect block has done more than 9,000 m without failure, it's unlikely to be from a bad batch. Does that sound right?
Thanks in advance for you help.
Alex

[siloboy]

Hi Guys,
As the open top of my 2000 H1 doesn't have much in the way of sheet steel, are extra rust prevention measures still a good idea, especially on the salted roads of the north?
Also, I've been advised that if a suspect block has done more than 9,000 m without failure, it's unlikely to be from a bad batch. Does that sound right?
Thanks in advance for you help.
Alex

[ssgharkness020147]

Where are you looking to add rust prevention (under body, doors, body)? Most of the body is made of T6061 T6 aluminum (the doors are steel, the hood is composite, and the rest is aluminum) the aluminum parts of the body will get what is called galvinic corrosion (especially nothern rigs) there is no way to prevent it other then completly re-painting the truck with proper primers. I'd just fix it as it pops up, its one of the things on my list for this spring. As for the #8, the problem was not completly fixed until the 01 year, but your Y2K truck should be safe. As and added precaution you should add an external cylinder head cooling kit. This will almost certinly prevent your engine from becoming another victim in the long line of #8 failures. This kit routes more coolant to the rear cylinders of the engine, which is where the number 8 cylinder is located. The kit can be purchased here (http://www.amghummer.com/Diesel/RearheadCooling/rearHeadCooling.htm) among other places. Oh, another added benifit of this kit is that your heat will kit in allot sooner then it does now.