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02-12-2006, 01:03 PM
These hints and shortcuts will not make sense unless you are in the process of installing the Muth Signal Mirrors.
I’m not going to go over a complete install, just add a few hints that make the install easier.
Removal of the door trim panels is easy and directions from Muth are great.
Make sure windows are down to have access to the four bolts retaining the mirror.
Directions for removing the pivot ring from the mirror are not good at all. I have written Muth, they make changes, and they may not; they have made some changes, but in my opinion, are still not clear. If they don’t there will be a ton of broken mirrors.
(This is an example of what happens if you have installed these mirrors many times, and the instructions did not note the requirement of the pivot mirror. At least they make a mention of the requirement of the pivot ring to be taken off the original mirror and installed on the Muth mirror. I just went ahead and attempted to install, and the mirror shattered instantly. Muth sent me a FREE mirror, so they do stand behind their instructions and their product. This is one reason why they revised their procedures to make note of the pivot ring.)
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C98%3B%3A%3B%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B %3B%3EWSNRCG%3D323352884%3A%3A44nu0mrj
Once the factory mirror is removed, you have to slightly pry up on the points indicated. YOU WILL BREAK THE FACTORY MIRROR. Once the noted bottom clip is free or broken (it is not used on the new mirror), the ring will slide downward. The Muth mirror slides into these four points and snaps in place. DO NOT pry hard, DO NOT break the four clips in each corner that are designed to slide into the Muth mirror. ADVISE you to wear leather gloves since the factory mirror will shatter.
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C98%3B%3A%3B%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B %3B%3EWSNRCG%3D323352884%3A%3A46nu0mrj
When installing the mirror assemblies to the vehicle; make sure the grommet is seated in the doors. Some soapy water helps to lubricate the grommet. It is tight, but if not installed, water can enter the inside of the door. There is NO seal on the mirror; the grommet is the only protection from water intrusion into the door.
Mirror bolt torque is 10 N.m (89 in-lbs).
Also, make sure to run the wires on the outside of the window run channel, or the window will not go up. With the window down, it is hard not to run the wires on the outside, but not impossible. Do as Muth recommends, route the mirror wires exactly the same way the power mirror wires are routed.
The Molex connector is a pain, but it can be done. Recommend removing the one bolt holding the door check link to allow for about one-inch more room to work.
With the door open, you will see a gray lever; push that lever up until it is completely to the top of the connector. The pull straight back to remove the male end of the connector.
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C99233%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B%3E WSNRCG%3D323352885299%3Cnu0mrj
The female end of the connector inside the door requires some small hands and arms to reach. Reach inside the door, and there is a small metal clip on the top of the connector, push down and pull, then pull the entire connector outside the door.
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C99233%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B%3E WSNRCG%3D323352884%3A444nu0mrj
Drill the required hole, route the signal mirror wires through the hole and the wire outside the hole where the connector sits. Then re-install the female end of the connector to the door. Position the connector to the inside of the door with the bottom in, the snap in the top to lock the metal clip on top.
Route the wires through the male end, now this is where it gets tricky. You will have pulled up the rubber insulator from around the connector. This is molded to the rubber tube that goes through the grommet at the door. Well, I found it impossible to fish theses two wires through this rubber tube and then into the vehicle on the driver’s side (the passenger side is even worse, due to the location of the heater blower motor). So, I routed the wire partially through the rubber tube, make small cut in the tube, and then routed the wire outside the tube. Then cut a small hole in the grommet where it goes into the vehicle, and routed the wires through the small slit, into the vehicle.
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C99233%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B%3E WSNRCG%3D323352884%3A445nu0mrj
Once these wires are routed, you can then pull on the wires to take up any slack, and then seat the male end of the connector back into the female end locked on the inside of the door. Push the male end of the connector straight in, and once in place, pull the gray lever down. It will help to draw the connector in, and then lock it in place.
Place some silicone sealant on the two holes cut on the rubber tube to make it watertight. I used Kent Industries Leak Chek, but any waterproof silicone should work.
The passenger door is a bit harder for pulling the wires into the vehicle, since the heater blower motor only gives you about one-inch clearance between the motor housing and the vehicle, but it can be done.
Both sides of the vehicle offer great ground locations, which are very obvious.
You do not have to remove the bottom panel from the driver’s side. You can route both wires without removing this panel and it will save time. This panel requires the brake handle and hood handle to be remove in order to remove the panel. This is a major pain, so I didn’t remove this panel.
Mirrors installed:
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C99233%7Ffp338%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B%3E WSNRCG%3D323352884%3A443nu0mrj
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C99233%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B%3E WSNRCG%3D323352884%3A%3A45nu0mrj
I’m not going to go over a complete install, just add a few hints that make the install easier.
Removal of the door trim panels is easy and directions from Muth are great.
Make sure windows are down to have access to the four bolts retaining the mirror.
Directions for removing the pivot ring from the mirror are not good at all. I have written Muth, they make changes, and they may not; they have made some changes, but in my opinion, are still not clear. If they don’t there will be a ton of broken mirrors.
(This is an example of what happens if you have installed these mirrors many times, and the instructions did not note the requirement of the pivot mirror. At least they make a mention of the requirement of the pivot ring to be taken off the original mirror and installed on the Muth mirror. I just went ahead and attempted to install, and the mirror shattered instantly. Muth sent me a FREE mirror, so they do stand behind their instructions and their product. This is one reason why they revised their procedures to make note of the pivot ring.)
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C98%3B%3A%3B%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B %3B%3EWSNRCG%3D323352884%3A%3A44nu0mrj
Once the factory mirror is removed, you have to slightly pry up on the points indicated. YOU WILL BREAK THE FACTORY MIRROR. Once the noted bottom clip is free or broken (it is not used on the new mirror), the ring will slide downward. The Muth mirror slides into these four points and snaps in place. DO NOT pry hard, DO NOT break the four clips in each corner that are designed to slide into the Muth mirror. ADVISE you to wear leather gloves since the factory mirror will shatter.
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C98%3B%3A%3B%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B %3B%3EWSNRCG%3D323352884%3A%3A46nu0mrj
When installing the mirror assemblies to the vehicle; make sure the grommet is seated in the doors. Some soapy water helps to lubricate the grommet. It is tight, but if not installed, water can enter the inside of the door. There is NO seal on the mirror; the grommet is the only protection from water intrusion into the door.
Mirror bolt torque is 10 N.m (89 in-lbs).
Also, make sure to run the wires on the outside of the window run channel, or the window will not go up. With the window down, it is hard not to run the wires on the outside, but not impossible. Do as Muth recommends, route the mirror wires exactly the same way the power mirror wires are routed.
The Molex connector is a pain, but it can be done. Recommend removing the one bolt holding the door check link to allow for about one-inch more room to work.
With the door open, you will see a gray lever; push that lever up until it is completely to the top of the connector. The pull straight back to remove the male end of the connector.
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C99233%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B%3E WSNRCG%3D323352885299%3Cnu0mrj
The female end of the connector inside the door requires some small hands and arms to reach. Reach inside the door, and there is a small metal clip on the top of the connector, push down and pull, then pull the entire connector outside the door.
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C99233%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B%3E WSNRCG%3D323352884%3A444nu0mrj
Drill the required hole, route the signal mirror wires through the hole and the wire outside the hole where the connector sits. Then re-install the female end of the connector to the door. Position the connector to the inside of the door with the bottom in, the snap in the top to lock the metal clip on top.
Route the wires through the male end, now this is where it gets tricky. You will have pulled up the rubber insulator from around the connector. This is molded to the rubber tube that goes through the grommet at the door. Well, I found it impossible to fish theses two wires through this rubber tube and then into the vehicle on the driver’s side (the passenger side is even worse, due to the location of the heater blower motor). So, I routed the wire partially through the rubber tube, make small cut in the tube, and then routed the wire outside the tube. Then cut a small hole in the grommet where it goes into the vehicle, and routed the wires through the small slit, into the vehicle.
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C99233%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B%3E WSNRCG%3D323352884%3A445nu0mrj
Once these wires are routed, you can then pull on the wires to take up any slack, and then seat the male end of the connector back into the female end locked on the inside of the door. Push the male end of the connector straight in, and once in place, pull the gray lever down. It will help to draw the connector in, and then lock it in place.
Place some silicone sealant on the two holes cut on the rubber tube to make it watertight. I used Kent Industries Leak Chek, but any waterproof silicone should work.
The passenger door is a bit harder for pulling the wires into the vehicle, since the heater blower motor only gives you about one-inch clearance between the motor housing and the vehicle, but it can be done.
Both sides of the vehicle offer great ground locations, which are very obvious.
You do not have to remove the bottom panel from the driver’s side. You can route both wires without removing this panel and it will save time. This panel requires the brake handle and hood handle to be remove in order to remove the panel. This is a major pain, so I didn’t remove this panel.
Mirrors installed:
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C99233%7Ffp338%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B%3E WSNRCG%3D323352884%3A443nu0mrj
http://images.snapfish.com/345%3C99233%7Ffp335%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B%3E WSNRCG%3D323352884%3A%3A45nu0mrj