Switch mounting

[md_sailor]

I have switches hanging out of my dash, I cant decide where to mount them. Would you veterans post some pictures of your Driving and fog lamp switches. I have 4 PIAA 580's on the warn bar and I am at an Impass.
Regards

[md_sailor]

I have switches hanging out of my dash, I cant decide where to mount them. Would you veterans post some pictures of your Driving and fog lamp switches. I have 4 PIAA 580's on the warn bar and I am at an Impass.
Regards

[Hum2]

I will take a pic of mine tonight and poat tomorrow...I have placed 4 swithces in the left air vent cap area and they are great. Easy to drill holes with a wood bit, and very easy access to wire behind. One for the brush guard lights, one for roof rack forward lights, one for roof forward/side angle lights, and one for the rear ligts.

Ric

[Hum2]

Here is the dash with the 4 switches added

Orange/left for rear roof-rack lights
Blue/center for brush guard lights
Red/right for forward roof-rack lights
Green/top for magnetic mount side lights

Ric

[Hum2]

2

[Hum2]

3

[tower]

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[sclui56]

Where did you guys find those different color LED switches? The only ones I could find are rated at 10 amp vs the stock one which is either 20 or 25 amp?

Thanks.

[Hum2]

The orange ones came with the GOBI Rack, the red/green/blue are Pilot (mini) switches from Auto Zone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly, Walmart, or any other place that may carry Pilot.

Ric

[sclui56]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by sclui56:
The only ones I could find are rated at 10 amp vs the stock one which is either 20 or 25 amp? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>If you are using a realy then it makes no difference as a realy will not draw anywhere near 10 amps. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Phil, I finally figured that out http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif At first I was a bit puzzled as the Hella harness has a relay and higher rated amp switch. Everything is up, 2 tier factory bar (almost new, paid $250), WARN light bar (great stuff, pain to tighten down upper bolts), pair of Black Magic's for now. Used the 10 amp switch from AutoZone, looked at the one from R/S but it is a bit large when I placed it under the rear wiper housing.

Using the Hella harness & relay, ended up going -ve straight to battery using one of those post-extenders & ran +ve to the +ve lead in the engine fuse box (didn't want to use another extender as I couldn;t find a suitable terminal cover for the +ve, used the suggested add-a-fuse thingy in the unused circuit.

Thanks to all the postings on this forum, it really made things a LOT easier!! Though I wished I had an extra pair of hands when battling the rubber boot thru the firewall, spent most of my time there, hate to just "feel" it without clear line of sight, then it took me nearly as long to reseat the center flap which got out of place when I threaded the harness through.

Only problem left is that everywhere I checked, I was told that the grill guard for the Black Magic's are discontinued, so I have to go with the clear cover for now...

For Hum2 - thanks for the tip. I actually bought a couple from Autozone when I was there buying the add-a-fuse, and that's what I ended up using. BTW, couldn't believe my dealer quited me $30+ for the OEM one.

I actually found some more switches similar to the Autozone ones at a local electronic store, looked & rated identical, except the full face of the switch surface is translucent with the respective color, bought one but didn;t use it as it would emit more light than necessary.

[Hum2]

Hey sclui56

We're glad to help.

I fought the boot for a while then decided to drill a complete new hole through the firewall...up and to the right of the gas pedal. Clean entry and relatively easy access and you can see! :-)

Ric

[sclui56]

Ric,

I think I'll go the route of having a new hole the next time, that darn boot is unusually thick. BTW, while searching for lights & stuff, came across this site & they have decent prices for Hella stuff, and they also have those nice switches as well, rated for 20 amps as well.

Susquehanna Motorsports (http://www.rallylights.com/)

Steve

[timgco]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Hum2:
Hey sclui56

We're glad to help.

I fought the boot for a while then decided to drill a complete new hole through the firewall...up and to the right of the gas pedal. Clean entry and relatively easy access and you can see! :-)

Ric </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

...Just a question.
Why is everyone drilling through the firewall or going through that boot. i have found running wires for all ten PIAA lights and my dual CB antenna wires up the A pillar and through the marker light, than back down the inside of the A Pillar. It takes a couple of minutes to take off both plastic A pillar guards on the dr sd and you don't have to drill any holes.

[sclui56]

Phil,

I was about to ask timgco the same thing, where's the beef? Besides the passage thru firewall being the traditional method, I tried looking around, and I couldn't find an easy way to route from engine bay to the A-pillar. Hope I missed something cause I sure would like to learn of an alternative, especially since I didn't plan well ahead to thread an extra set of wires http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

[Xenowulf]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by timgco:
...Just a question.
Why is everyone drilling through the firewall or going through that boot. i have found running wires for all ten PIAA lights and my dual CB antenna wires up the A pillar and through the marker light, than back down the inside of the A Pillar. It takes a couple of minutes to take off both plastic A pillar guards on the dr sd and you don't have to drill any holes. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>What about brush guard lights? Unless you use the electronic brake controller circuit, you need to go through the firewall.

Also, where are you getting power from for all those lights? 10 lights at 55w each = 46 amps, before you even start to look at heat loss etc. Is there somewhere under the dash with a 50 amp feed? Even with only half of them on, 23 amps min, a direct feed from the battery would be the best way of doing it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

IF there is a way to run wires for the switches from your brush guard lights and not have to drill any holes into the firewall I, and properly many others world really like to know how.

I always thought that if Hummer offered brush guard and roof mounted lights from factory they should have had the truck pre-wired. That’s my two cents….

[sclui56]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I always thought that if Hummer offered brush guard and roof mounted lights from factory they should have had the truck pre-wired. That’s my two cents…. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That would be too easy http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif Couldn't even get my NAV with a CD changer from the factory. OTOH, MBZ & BMW are very good in prewiring their NA-bound vehicles with a lot of the possible options. I remember I had a low-end 3 series years ago, the factory alarm & fogs were all prewired, literally plug-n-play, and it's the same thing on my daughter's C-class.

Prewiring the lights from the factory would have been a great idea, and certainly wouldn't break their bank in doing so. Besides, it would have alleviated lots of the sloppy wiring jobs done by the dealer & alike.

[sclui56]

Hi Phil,

May be a bot off-topic, just a quick question - besides the use of the SEO ACCY Fuse, which other fuse is SAFE to tap into by using the add-a-circuit to control another set of light relay? Thanks.

May be the AUX PWR 2 Fuse?

[timgco]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by timgco:
...Just a question.
Why is everyone drilling through the firewall or going through that boot. i have found running wires for all ten PIAA lights and my dual CB antenna wires up the A pillar and through the marker light, than back down the inside of the A Pillar. It takes a couple of minutes to take off both plastic A pillar guards on the dr sd and you don't have to drill any holes. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>What about brush guard lights? Unless you use the electronic brake controller circuit, you need to go through the firewall.

Also, where are you getting power from for all those lights? 10 lights at 55w each = 46 amps, before you even start to look at heat loss etc. Is there somewhere under the dash with a 50 amp feed? Even with only half of them on, 23 amps min, a direct feed from the battery would be the best way of doing it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

OK, I don't know how to speak electrical guru, but all of the lights (ones for rack and brush guard) are connected to batt. studs at the battery. All of the realys tuck up next to the battery also. Than Gobi made a harness that we ran tinto the cab for the switches. Not sure if i answered your question(s). Let me know if not, so I can ask Paul.

[timgco]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by timgco:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by timgco:
...Just a question.
Why is everyone drilling through the firewall or going through that boot. i have found running wires for all ten PIAA lights and my dual CB antenna wires up the A pillar and through the marker light, than back down the inside of the A Pillar. It takes a couple of minutes to take off both plastic A pillar guards on the dr sd and you don't have to drill any holes. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>What about brush guard lights? Unless you use the electronic brake controller circuit, you need to go through the firewall.

Also, where are you getting power from for all those lights? 10 lights at 55w each = 46 amps, before you even start to look at heat loss etc. Is there somewhere under the dash with a 50 amp feed? Even with only half of them on, 23 amps min, a direct feed from the battery would be the best way of doing it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

OK, I don't know how to speak electrical guru, but all of the lights (ones for rack and brush guard) are connected to batt. studs at the battery. All of the relays tuck up next to the battery also. Than Gobi made a harness that we ran into the cab for the switches. Not sure if i answered your question(s). Let me know if not, so I can ask Paul. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
BTW, the only wires in the cab are the wires to teh switches to turn the relays on.

[sclui56]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">BTW, the only wires in the cab are the wires to teh switches to turn the relays on. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Those are the wires everyone is talking about, they came from the relays if the installation was proper, and the relays are in the engine compartment, so it has to have a connection through the firewall, hence the struggle with the "boot" or a new opening.

Now, if the installation was done with a remote switch (receiver in the engine bay), then there's no need to go thru the firewall, but most of us use the traditional hard-wire method.

[RasterMaster]

Where did you find that blue switch?

[sclui56]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RasterMaster:
Where did you find that blue switch? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

AutoZone

[Xenowulf]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by sclui56:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">BTW, the only wires in the cab are the wires to teh switches to turn the relays on. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Those are the wires everyone is talking about, they came from the relays if the installation was proper, and the relays are in the engine compartment, so it has to have a connection through the firewall, hence the struggle with the "boot" or a new opening.

Now, if the installation was done with a remote switch (receiver in the engine bay), then there's no need to go thru the firewall, but most of us use the traditional hard-wire method. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That’s exactly what we are tacking about. You only need to run one single wire (let’s say a 14 g, wire) from the switch in the cab to the relay, the other two are power and ground which can be pulled from the fuse box in the cab. Therefore how are you pulling or connecting the wire from the switch to the relay without cutting a hole in the firewall or f@!#ing with the rubber boot?

[sclui56]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by sclui56:
May be a bot off-topic, just a quick question - besides the use of the SEO ACCY Fuse, which other fuse is SAFE to tap into by using the add-a-circuit to control another set of light relay? Thanks.

May be the AUX PWR 2 Fuse? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I'd have to take a look, I know when I checked it out before I stopped after I found the first fuse that was ignition switched and not used for anything else.

I'll have a look over the weekend for another unused source. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

OK Phil, thanks. I don't think I should tap off the same circuit for the second set of lights.

Steve

[sclui56]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by sclui56:
OK Phil, thanks. I don't think I should tap off the same circuit for the second set of lights. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>If all you are doing is tapping off for a relay you will be fine.

I have 5 relays controlling 10 lights, a direct feed for my CB and V1 all off the same fuse tap with a 10 amp fuse and never had a problem. Relays use next to no current. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Phil,

At the risk of sounding dense, I only use the SEO to hook up the add-a-circuit, which in turn is hooked up to the relay for light set #1. What you indicated is that I can tap the relay for set #2 into this same add-a-circuit line without risking much, right?

Thanks.

Steve

[sclui56]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
Steve, yes, you can use the add-a-circuit to power a number of switches. All they are doing are activating relays, which uses very little current. As long as you don't change the fuse rating (10 amps) of the SEO ACCY circuit you will be fine. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hi Phil,

Thanks a lot for the confirm!

Steve

[Hum2]

Phil is 100% correct...I have done the same...all myswitches/relays run off the SEO ACCY tap.

TIMGCO...how about a reply on the miracle power supply with the invisible wires? http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

Ric

[timgco]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Hum2:
Phil is 100% correct...I have done the same...all myswitches/relays run off the SEO ACCY tap.

TIMGCO...how about a reply on the miracle power supply with the invisible wires? http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

Ric </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


I think we can run all of the lights/ switches through a wireless router that can me run remotely through a GPS unit hoooked to the curcuit breaker at your home. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

[SoonerBoarder]

Nice link to the Hummer X-club about Hi Beam wiring. If you use two relays, you can wire your aux lites to come on with either your inside switch or your high beam, so you cna turn them on without turning on the high beam if you wanted:

http://img71.echo.cx/img71/9881/wirelights8qv.jpg

[SoonerBoarder]

I'm doing basically the same thing with the backup camera, so it comes on when you put it in reverse, but you can switch it on any other time, too.