Dif and Tcase fluid change

[usetosellhummer]

I have 8k on my truck and my guy shoed me the Dif fluid and its black, does not smell burnt but after some hard off roading I am wondering if I should go ahead and change? regular cycle is 15k right?

[fourfourto]

I have 8k on my truck and my guy shoed me the Dif fluid and its black, does not smell burnt but after some hard off roading I am wondering if I should go ahead and change? regular cycle is 15k right?

I think its much higher than 15k it was either 50k 0r 100k I forgot. I know it takes synthetic oil.

[Wisha Haddan H3]

Probably could last a while longer, but I say change it. After 8000 miles of breaking in the gears and wheeling there's bound to be some grit in there.

So do you have to go with factory synthetic or can you use Mobil1?

[garnerbiker]

I did my front and rear diff and the t-case at 8000 miles. The front diff was clean, the rear was nasty, and the t-case was a little dirty. I though thtat it was a good idea to change them.

The dealer wanted $700.00 to change all that AND they would check my levels and rotate the tires. What a deal! OR, you can do it yourself for 30 bucks. Just be sure to get a fluid pump ($5) and the synthetic oil for the rear. The transfer case requires to fill above the fill plug. Just cap it off when it gets to the plug and fill the rest of the amount from the sensor just above it. No big deal.

With all the heavy driving I do off road I am going to do the procedure every 10K or so.

Good luck,

[f5fstop]

What a deal! OR, you can do it yourself for 30 bucks. Just be sure to get a fluid pump ($5) and the synthetic oil for the rear. The transfer case requires to fill above the fill plug. Just cap it off when it gets to the plug and fill the rest of the amount from the sensor just above it. No big deal.


Your statement on the t/case fill is partially correct for some vehicles, and incorrect of other vehicles.

For vehicles built prior and including 5GTDN136968105387, you just don't remove the sensor and fill to the sensor. You fill to the fill hole, as you described, and then remove the speed sensor and ADD ADDITIONAL 8.45 oz of fluid through the sensor hole.
If the vehicle was manufactured after the above VIN number, the additional fluid is not required.

In addition, the front diff also requires SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant.

As to changing it prior to recommended specs, it's your money.:beerchug:

[fourfourto]

Your statement on the t/case fill is partially correct for some vehicles, and incorrect of other vehicles.

For vehicles built prior and including 5GTDN136968105387, you just don't remove the sensor and fill to the sensor. You fill to the fill hole, as you described, and then remove the speed sensor and ADD ADDITIONAL 8.45 oz of fluid through the sensor hole.
If the vehicle was manufactured after the above VIN number, the additional fluid is not required.

In addition, the front diff also requires SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant.

As to changing it prior to recommended specs, it's your money.:beerchug:



F5 my vin is 136668.
Do i need extra oil now or just when I change it?
Also recomended change would be at 50k is that correct?

[f5fstop]

F5 my vin is 136668.
Do i need extra oil now or just when I change it?
Also recomended change would be at 50k is that correct?

Vehicles after 5GTDN136968105387 do not require the extra fluid, so with your VIN the extra fluid is not required. Recommended by GM is 50K using Dexron III.
You can verify this by looking at the bottom of the t/case. If there is a blue dot on the case, extra fluid is not required.

[fourfourto]

Vehicles after 5GTDN136968105387 do not require the extra fluid, so with your VIN the extra fluid is not required.


Isnt 136668111776 before 136968105387 :confused:
Im confused

[Hal]

I thought I was corn-fused as well.

My vin is DN136368... Jan 2006 build, 5-speed adventure/lux pkg.
So it's before the 136968, yes, ok, so extra fluid required right?

Go get under your t-case, here's what I found...
A blue line (like from a marking pen) not a dot. Also two printed labels. One idiot-proof label gives the detailed filling instructions in english and spanish including the part about adding additional .25L thru the speed sensor hole. The other label identifies the T-case: 449, 12/21/05, 14:14, 60 EV C012063.

So which thingee is the speed sensor? the one to the rear drivers side almost on top of the T-case?

?

[fourfourto]

mine was a June 05 build.
Maybe there only going by last 8 digits.?

[usetosellhummer]

120 from my guy and he uses the GM dex sheet. Ok I will wait a bit.:fdance:

[f5fstop]

120 from my guy and he uses the GM dex sheet. Ok I will wait a bit.:fdance:

Ok, I was referencing the last six digits of the VIN number, this is the sequence of the VIN number, the other digits stand for other things.

As for the fill, I was assured by engineering that the problem with the extra fill was fixed on vehicles built after the VIN, evidently it wasn't if there is a permanent sticker on the t/case stating to add more fluid via the speed sensor hole. MY MISTAKE. My APOLIGIES to Garnerbiker. Guess I can't believe everything I'm being told by certain people at GM.
Now I'm curious to see if they fixed this for 2007. Guess I'll have to crawl under a 2007, if we have one left in the center, and see for myself. This PEES me off, and the service manual is incorrect.
The procedure to fill the t/case in the service manual implies that the extra fluid is NOT required. So, if there is a sticker stating to add extra, then I have to notify someone that the service procedure is incorrect.
See, as I have stated many times, I learn from you guys and gals.


VIN BREAKDOWN for HUMMER H3 using 5GTDN136968105387:
5 - Country of Origin 1, 4 5 = USA)
G - Manufacturer (G = General Motors)
T - Division (R, T = Hummer)
D - GVWR/Brake System
N1 - Line Chassis/Series (Mid Size 4x4 SUV - 1/2 Ton - H3)
3 - Body Type (3 = Four Door Utility Truck)
6 - Engine Type (6 = L52, 3.5L L5, MFI)
9 - Check Digit (random)
6 = Model Year (6 = 2006)
8 = Manufacturing Plant (8 = Shreveport, LA)
105387 - Production Sequence Number

[Hal]

Vehicles after 5GTDN136968105387 do not require the extra fluid, so with your VIN the extra fluid is not required.


Isnt 136668111776 before 136968105387 :confused:
Im confused

It's all clear as mud isn't it? :cool:

136968105387 (vehicles after this do not require extra fluid per f5fstop)
136668111776 (fourfourto's vin & f5fstop said does NOT require, June 05)
136368237108 (mine does require extra fluid per T-case sticker, Jan 06)

:confused:

[fourfourto]

I thought it was clear for a second.?
How can Hal have a sticker if hes after that # ?:confused:

[Hal]

f5fstop, I just now saw your last post....

maybe someone does knows that the manual is wrong and hence the idoit proof sticker on my T-case.
Anyway thanks for checking on this. We all value your expertice more than you know!
:clapping:

[garnerbiker]

f5fstop,

Thanks for getting the extra fluid info striaght. That is what I did when I filled it up.

Was adding the extra fluid an afterthought by GM, or could they not get the fill plug up higher?

G

[f5fstop]

Maybe I'm adding confusion to this subject.:dancingbanana:

Apparently, I was informed wrong when the dealer upgrade bulletin was issued, that the additional fluid would not be required on vehicles after the VIN I posted. It appears the additional fluid is required, but rather than issue a bulletin, there is a note added to the t/case informing the tech to add the additional fluid.
So, it appears that all t/cases, at least in 2006, require the extra fluid. I will check on this tomorrow with engineering.

HAL: As for the manual, the electronic manual I access online is updated daily with new or revised information. For the engineer to update the information is very easy, put in a request, and a day or two later it is available to the dealers via the GM electronic service information website.
If I find out tomorrow that all cases required the extra fluid, I will notify the people in charge of service manuals and have them make the change to the fill procedure.

[Desert Dan]

Thanks f5fstop

A good reason not to get it done a quickie oil change place. Not to mention any names..

[usetosellhummer]

ok I think i get it.:confused:

[wpage]

Follow your owners manual...:fdance:

[f5fstop]

Follow your owners manual...:fdance:

Can't it is not accurate for those produced prior to the VIN, and may not be accurate for those produced after the VIN.
The t/case engineering is checking, but it appears right now there may be three different scenarios (MAYBE). Built prior to the VIN, with a sticker and with a blue dot.
Still checking....

[Desert Dan]

What's the diff?

Why would there be a different amount of fluid in the same axle housing?

[f5fstop]

What's the diff?

Why would there be a different amount of fluid in the same axle housing?

We are not talking different axle housings, we are talking transfer cases. The reason is drive line angle, and the need for more fluid.

[Desert Dan]

Oops

I missed the t-case part. Is it for the 4:1 T-case or all T-cases

[f5fstop]

All T-cases. The end drive-line angle was different than design, by just enough to warrant some extra fluid. A problem COULD occur due to the lack of this small amount of fluid. However, when they first sent out the bulletin, the requirements for a problem to occur would almost mean the t/case was in 4x4 LO Lock for a continuous 500 miles while climbing.
Almost impossible, but to be safe and yes, cut any future warranty, they decided to add the extra fluid.
Supposedly there was a change to be made to the case or to the shift fork. So far, I believe I have totally confused the t/case engineer. He appeared to be caught on the procedure versus the blue dot versus the bulletin. To give him credit, he just took over this part. So, he is doing some research.
He is also checking into some POSSIBLE changes that may have been made to the front differential (HERE THAT BEBE?).

[f5fstop]

Here is the scoop?.
If your vehicle was produced manufactured prior to and including VIN5GTDN136968105387, when you do a t/case fluid change, you should fill the t/case at the fill hole, and when fluid starts to run out, re-insert the fill plug and torque to 18 lb-ft (25 N?m). Then remove the connector from the speed sensor, and remove the speed sensor, then add an additional 8.45 oz (250 ml) of Dexron III trans fluid into the t/case via the speed sensor hole.
Then re-install the vehicle speed sensor and torque to 13 lb ft (17 N?m), and reconnect the connector.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m252/f5fstop/Hummer%20Posts/T_CaseSpeedSensor.jpg

If your vehicle was manufactured after VIN5GTDN136968105387, and there is a sticker on the rear housing of the t/case that states add extra fluid to the t/case via the speed sensor, then add the extra fluid.

If you vehicle was manufactured after VIN5GTDN136968105387, and there is no sticker on the t/case, and there is a distinctive BLUE DOT on the housing, then o not add extra fluid via the vehicle speed sensor hole. The fill hole has been raised to allow for the additional required fluid.

Do not confuse the green (or sometimes) blue line that is near where the front and rear cases fit together. This line is added by the person who torques the t/case bolts and is used for quality control to verify bolts were torqued.

[ziemann]

BUMP-

Hi folks-

I rarely post, and today ran across this again as a part of my search, SO I thought it would be worthy of a bump-

I am glad I found this. I happen to be one of those that is after the VIN number but has the sticker on the transfer case....thus I need the extra ATF.

I am doing my first fluid replacement at 53,000 miles....

Anyone have an issue with me replacing my transfer case ATF with Amsoil Synthetic ATF?

[RubHer Yellow Ducky]

BUMP-

Hi folks-

I rarely post, and today ran across this again as a part of my search, SO I thought it would be worthy of a bump-

I am glad I found this. I happen to be one of those that is after the VIN number but has the sticker on the transfer case....thus I need the extra ATF.

I am doing my first fluid replacement at 53,000 miles....

Anyone have an issue with me replacing my transfer case ATF with Amsoil Synthetic ATF?

I'm lifting a Amber Bock Draft to you...ICE COLD of course

Your one of the few who understand the word SEARCH...

Congrats :dancingbanana: :dancingbanana: :dancingbanana:

[NEOCON1]

I'm lifting a Amber Bock Draft to you...ICE COLD of course

Your one of the few who understand the word SEARCH...

Congrats :dancingbanana: :dancingbanana: :dancingbanana:


X2 :iagree: and not a pad-a-holic like the rest of us :clapping:

[Steve - SanJose]

Now I'm getting thirsty...

[deserth3]

GM Owners center has added this to the monthly checks. I'm pretty sure it wasn't there before.

Make sure the safety belt reminders light and all your belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors, and anchorages are working properly.
Look for any other loose or damaged safety belt system parts. If you see anything that might keep a safety belt system from doing its job, have it repaired. Have any torn or frayed safety belts replaced.
Look for any opened or broken air bag coverings, and have them repaired or replaced.
Inspect wiper blades for wear or cracking. Replace blade inserts that appear worn or damaged or that streak or miss areas of the windshield.
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather, more frequent application may be required.
Check the transaxle fluid level; add if needed.

Damn now I need to crawl under my truck and take a look.:twak:

[f5fstop]

From the owner's manual:
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed.


Manual the same...

[marin8703]

hey while on the subject of diff fluid heres a question. Is it ok for some fluid to be comming out of the front diff rite where the shaft from the transfer case comes in? my guess is no. its not just a little, it seems to be comming out quite well, and its getting splashed around in a circular fashion. its up on the engine as well. Its draining down to the diff plug, and then is pooling a little on the shield.

heres some pics, i made an appointment on monday with the dealership. Do you guys think its ok to drive like this untill then, dont really know how much has already come out?

this where its coming from
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/marin8703/leaking%20front%20diff/P1010010.jpg

heres some splashed up on the engine around it
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/marin8703/leaking%20front%20diff/P1010008.jpg

here from the front along the shaft
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/marin8703/leaking%20front%20diff/P1010006.jpg

heres it draining to around where the bolt is (lowest point on diff) and then falls on the shiled
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/marin8703/leaking%20front%20diff/P1010013.jpg

The fluid doesnt seem to be coming out when the shft isnt rotating, so i cant tell the rate at which it comming out.

so as asked earlier do you guys think its ok to drive around until monday? and also for that to be fixed does it requre a new diff, or just a replacement of the connection there?

thanks for any help.

[f5fstop]

Front drive pinion shaft seal is leaking and apparently leaking quite a bit.
As for driving, depends on how much has leaked out. You could pull the sight/fill plug and add some fluid, but the synthetic fluid is very expensive. Or using a coat hanger, pipe cleaner, etc. stick it in the hole and see how low the level is.

If it appears to leak only when rotating, that tells me the seal is either bad at the top, or if bad at the bottom, the level has dropped pretty low.

[marin8703]

Front drive pinion shaft seal is leaking and apparently leaking quite a bit.
As for driving, depends on how much has leaked out. You could pull the sight/fill plug and add some fluid, but the synthetic fluid is very expensive. Or using a coat hanger, pipe cleaner, etc. stick it in the hole and see how low the level is.

If it appears to leak only when rotating, that tells me the seal is either bad at the top, or if bad at the bottom, the level has dropped pretty low.

thanks f5, just to be safe i wont drive it this weekend. If i get a chance i mite do the coat hanger thing to see where the fluid is at.:beerchug:

[marin8703]

Front drive pinion shaft seal is leaking and apparently leaking quite a bit.
As for driving, depends on how much has leaked out. You could pull the sight/fill plug and add some fluid, but the synthetic fluid is very expensive. Or using a coat hanger, pipe cleaner, etc. stick it in the hole and see how low the level is.

If it appears to leak only when rotating, that tells me the seal is either bad at the top, or if bad at the bottom, the level has dropped pretty low.

f5, do you know what the fix is for that, will the whole diff be switched out or just the seal? Which ever it is how long do you think the work would be?

thanks

[f5fstop]

Seal replace is about 2 hours, so figure it is an all-day drop off for the H3 at the dealer. They will replace the seal not the diff, unless it is something other than a bad seal. Seals that leak early in the components life, are usually damaged upon installation of the seal into the component during component assembly; or damaged when another component is installed (in this case, the shaft is installed inside the diff).
In this case, if the pinion shaft is slightly crooked when installed into the diff, it could slightly cut the ID of the seal, that over a short time will cause a leak.

(I guess I could add, it could be something else like a cracked diff in the shaft area, but that is extremely rare. It could also be porosity of the case, which also is very rare, so I would bet it is the seal, but not being there....)

[marin8703]

Thanks f5, :beerchug:, on my way to drop it off rite now.