My key is stuck in the ignition switch

[mountainbiker]

My key is stuck in the ignition, and it will not turn to the LOCK position.

I have been having issues with my battery, but--at this moment--the battery is allowing me to start the engine. I have heard case where a dead battery might cause this problem.

I tried following some instruction on the forum for the H2, but I cannot get it to work for my H3.

[Mark805]

I know you probably did this but:

Make sure the park lever is pushed all the way forward... I had my cell phone up there once and it messed me up.

I can vouch that a barely dead battery will keep the key. But it only happened once.

[Hmmm2]

Another one of those, "You've probably tried this already, but ...." solutions .. did you jiggle the key while making sure it's fully in? I've had a dead battery ... not barely dead, but totally dead .. and the ignition released my key. Never held it. Hating to think it could by the starter, ignition cylinder. Have you thought about spraying some powder graphite alongside the key? (Not WD-40 .. just POWDER graphite). Can you jump your battery and try to turn the key?

[mountainbiker]

Thanks Mark and Hmmm for your suggestions.

The battery still has juice to start the car, but I am guess it will be just a matter of time before it drains the battery with the key in th ACC position. I can turn the key to ACC, ON, and START, but it doesn't look like it will go to the LOCK position where it should release the key. I cannot lock the car manually because it senses the key in the ignition, so I lock it with my second key fob. Inside the car, I see the green light on the rear view mirror, the clock on the radio, and the shift position light under the P on the dash.

I tried cycling the shift lever back and forth, and I tried placing the steering wheel in different locations without success. My car only has 253 miles on it, so it still is empty of stuff and has the new car smell still. I don't want to go spraying anything yet as to not cause further complications to the matter.

I am in Europe, so my HUMMER dealer sadly isn't nearby.

I did the following steps I found in the H2 section, but they did not help (I am not sure what the "brake fuse" is, however, on my H3):

DO THESE IN ORDER TO UN STICK KEY!!!

CHECK THE BRAKE FUSE

CHARGE THE BATTERY

PUT THE EMERGENCY BRAKE ON

ROTATE THE KEY TO ACCESSORY POSISTION

CLOSE THE DOOR

ROTATE KEY TO IGNITION POSOTION

DEPRESS FOOT BRAKE

RELEASE EMERGENCY BRAKE

START VEHICLE

[marin8703]

its happened to me several times that when i disconect the battery it kept the key in the if the key was on anything other than of at the time the battery was disconnected.

try what the other have suggested.

from what i am understanding is that your battery is not dead and the car works just fine, its just that the key wont release. heres something else to think about. It might be that the shifter thing that sends the shifter position is malfunctioning. Try disconecting the battery and then reconnecting it in an attempt to "clear its head", dont know if that will work.

Also try moving the wheel, you know how it wont let you turn the key to ignition if the wheel is locked, maybe the opposite is happening to you. Dont know if the H3 locks the wheel but try.

other wise take it to dealer as soon as possible, and make sure you keep an eye on the truck when you leave it parked somewhere with the key in the ignition, otherwise its a free ride.:D

[marin8703]

it took me so long to write my essay :D , that you beat me to the posting. thast sucks that your dealer is far. try as many different and random things as possible, maybe something will work.

[mountainbiker]

from what i am understanding is that your battery is not dead and the car works just fine, its just that the key wont release. heres something else to think about. It might be that the shifter thing that sends the shifter position is malfunctioning. Try disconecting the battery and then reconnecting it in an attempt to "clear its head", dont know if that will work.
Tonight I have had the battery disconnected a few times as I am also trying to debug a battery problem. However, it would not surprise me to find out that is was the result of the battery at some stage.

Background: I had the OEM battery go bad, i.e., not accept a charge. I replaced it with a new Optima, and it was working. Next I worked on the lights to get them ready for Europe. After about 25% of the light work, I tried the battery -- it was dead. I figured it hadn't charged, it was new, I might of had something on while I was working, etc. So, I am not ready to say yet if I have a battery problem or not. Right now idle, it is reading 12V. With the engine running, it read 14.5V. Once started, I can disconnect the battery and it keeps running.

[Hmmm2]

I didn't realize that your H3 was so new! Wow ..just 253 miles on it! I know there are a few guys on here who should have some ideas for you on the problem. F5fstop, H3 Builder, ChevyHighPerformance? Hopefully they'll be looking in soon. Good luck, mountainbiker. Keep us posted, ok?

[mountainbiker]

I didn't realize that your H3 was so new! Wow...just 253 miles on it!Yepper. I bought it with 24 miles, by the time it came off the boat here it had 74, and the rest was mostly me driving home. I haven't got one nice relaxing joy ride yet :( It is, however, amusing my officemates as they tell me "put it back on the boat", or "how's that HUMMER working out for you?"

[HCUBE]

Try disconnecting the battery and see if the key turns. If not, reconnect the battery and see what happens. Worth a shot. GOOD LUCK!

[mountainbiker]

Thanks HCUBE. Tonight I have had the battery disconnected a few times--as I am also trying to debug a battery problem--but it hasn't released itself. I have emailed my stateside dealer for him to ask the service department, but he hasn't gotten back to me yet.

[lennyrebel]

A friend of mine used graphite on his ignition key and had all kinds of problems. Remember that graphite is an excellent conductor and consequently he had an engine that wouldn't stop a starter that wouldn't disengage anyways all solved with a new ignition. The rebel

[mountainbiker]

A friend of mine used graphite on his ignition key and had all kinds of problems.lRoger that. I feel like I am gaining more days on my "life odometer" than my actual odometer. I am surprise no one yet has said it's a "feature" of the H3, so you don't lose your keys.

[Hmmm2]

A friend of mine used graphite on his ignition key and had all kinds of problems.
I'm feeling REALLY guilty about suggesting the powder graphite now. :crying: Sorry guys. :( I knew a couple of people who had tried that and it worked, but on vehicles other than Hummers. HOWEVER, I mentioned it before I knew that mountainbiker only had 253 miles on his H3. Forgive me, forgive me!!:D

[mountainbiker]

Original dealer said "It sounds like you may need a new shifter. It sounds like the vehicle may not recognize that the vehicle is in park and will not release the key."

However, as you know, I was having battery problems. When the key got stuck the battery went dead while the key was in the ignition. Keeping that in mind, look at this previous post:

I got in the truck today to move it and the lights were dim. Figured if I could start it, I'd be able to recharge the battery (no idea why it drained). No iPod, no TV's on. Key is stuck. Truck is dead. I'm getting tired of this crap. Calling for a tow tomorrow and will ask them not to jump it so maybe the dealer can figure out what's happening. BTW, this is the 2nd battery.

Source: http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=313613&postcount=45


I am wondering if my battery problem caused the key stuck problem???

[BlueHUMMERH2]

Where is FStop? Is he on vacation? Maybe he's in Germany! :D

Sorry about your stuck key. I can only imagine how frustrating it must be because you have no dealer nearby.

If you place the car in neutral with the brake on and the emergency/parking brake on, will that release the key? Not sure that's even possible, but it's the only location other than park where I can see the key might release.

[Hmmm2]

I haven't seen f5ftop online since last Friday. Maybe he's away on a long weekend. Not what mountainbiker wants to hear. Hoping f5fstop will check in soon ... he'd surely have some educated guesses on this problem. Hang in there, mountainbiker.

[BlueHUMMERH2]

Hmm, putting the trans in neutral won't do it. The key still won't come out. I just tried on my H2.

Wow, quite a hiatus for FStop!

[mountainbiker]

Where is FStop? Is he on vacation? Maybe he's in Germany! LOL- yeah it does seem quiet without him on here. And he's more than welcome to visit the lovely wine country. We even have Wal-Marts (but they are being offloaded) and a soft drink called Lift (made by Coke). Plus, the Christmas Markets will begin soon -- good food and good drink.

Sorry about your stuck key. I can only imagine how frustrating it must be because you have no dealer nearby.Oh god is it. Plus, can you imagine a base of trick-or-treaters out there tonight all walking by a shiny new H3 with a key in the ignition?![/quote]

If you place the car in neutral with the brake on and the emergency/parking brake on, will that release the key? Not sure that's even possible, but it's the only location other than park where I can see the key might release.I have tried in neutral, but I am not sure I tried in combination with the parking brake. I will have to give it a go. The manual says it has to be in park. Plus, in bold black text it says don't force it. (I wonder why they had to make it bold and to say that?!)

[mountainbiker]

Not what mountainbiker wants to hear.LOL- you are so right :(

he'd surely have some educated guesses on this problem. Hang in there, mountainbikerI sure am hoping; however, I do appreciate everyone's ideas and suggestions. BlueHUMMERH2 thanks for checking the functioning on the H2.

[wpage]

Try getting a little rough with it. Since your vehicle has been handled by overseas shippers supspect that some of the shippers may have had some fun and mishandled your H3. Maybe Jimmy Hoffa's in your back seat!:D

[ChevyHighPerformance]

There is a cylinder lock actuator system in the steering column. This prevents you from turning the key to lock while the auto tranny is in gear and prevents the steering wheel from being locked. There is a cylinder lock actuator that has a spring loaded pin that engages the cylinder lock and prevents it from going to lock. There is a park position switch in the floor shifter. When you are in park 12 volts is connected to the cylinder lock actuator, the pin in is pulled in, and the key cylinder is free to rotate to the lock position to let you pull the key out. The system is pretty simple but getting at the components is pretty hard. There is an ignition lock cylinder release button on the underside of the ignition lock that will override the system (i.e., push the pin in) to let you remove the key. Off hand I don't know if there is an access hole for the button or if you have to remove the steering wheel clamshell covers. This is a sensitive area because of the air bag.

The other area is in the floor shifter. You'll have to remove the shifter knob (screw in base of knob on radio side) and the shift boot trim. I don't know if this will give you enough access to the park postion switch. There should be two yellow wires going to the park position switch to help you locate it.

Sorry, I can't offer any clear solutions right now. I don't know if it is best to try and remove the steering column covers and look for the release button on the underside of the cylinder lock (chances are it won't have "release button" written on it to help you) or wiggle the wires around the park position switch in case you have a loose contact.

[Hmmm2]

...wiggle the wires around the park position switch in case you have a loose contact.Mountainbiker, let's hope it's a loose contact! What a shame that of all of the issues that could have happened, it had to be something like this one.:crying: I keep thinking it's something related to the battery since you had a problem in that area. Keeping positive thoughts for you .. I hope you come up with a solution quickly. By the way, I hope you have something draped over your steering column when you're not in your H3. An obvious key in the ignition is obviously too tempting for the wrong person passing by.

[mountainbiker]

Today was not fun :( I have to admit defeat. My battery was dead once again. My key remains stuck in the ignition switch. I do have a dealer service appointment tomorrow (Thu). I cannot say I am looking forward to the 3-hour drive (unless they fix it all within the day). The work--even if warranty related--will not automatically be submitted to HUMMER. I must take the invoice and submit it myself for possible reimbursement. It has me very nervous. Have any of you submitted a warranty claim personally?

[Hmmm2]

Keeping positive thoughts that your 3 hour drive in each direction was not in vain. Let us know what the verdict was on your stuck key when you have a chance.

[BlueHUMMERH2]

Nope, never had to personally submit a warranty claim. Good luck though. I imagine the miles are worse than the time when its comes to buying litres of fuel in Europe.

[mountainbiker]

Well everyone--the short answer--everything is fixed.

I left yesterday at 0130 and returned home at 2130. The drive was approximately 4 hours each way, and about an hour break each way. The rest was them working on the car. In the late afternoon they put 3 people on it, so I would not have to get a hotel for the evening.

It was a botched electrical job by the guy who did the work for the European light conversion. The cause of the problems were rooted with cutting connections going to the BCM, wire taps, and blown fuses.

Final bill (out of my pocket): $1700 + $300 (for the first botched job) + $200 (for the battery which it did need)

[Hmmm2]

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Wow ... no one even thought of the European light conversions!!! He must have really done some job to cause your problems!! :mad: Is that guy in Germany? Can you locate him and present him with the repair bill? So sorry to hear all you had to go through, mountainclimber. What a tough initiation. I hope you have nothing but enjoyment now out of your new H3!

[mountainbiker]

Yeah he is a local national that works on the base. He does about 2-4 of these conversion or un-conversions a week as a side business. In most case, especially the older cars (without the things like a BCM) it works fine for a persons tour of duty here (2-3 years). His work is still probably not the safest as the connections are exposed to the elements, etc. Also, he charges normally less than $300 per car, so comparted to the dealership quote (had I went there in the beginning) of $1200--you can see why a poor E-1 or E-3 might go with the cheaper route. I will use this now as a "data point" and info my fellow soldiers about getting what you pay for.

I want to thank Hmmm3 and all the rest of you for your support of the troops and, of course, my new baby H3. Yesterday evening during my 4+ hour drive home, it was the first time I really got to enjoy the vehicle. LOL- but I did notice my leg getting tired without the presence of cruise control. (Now, I need to post "Is cruise control an option that I forgot to request?")

[Hmmm2]

Guess your experience is going to be chalked up to a "Live and learn" life experience. :( That was a tough one. Now just enjoy your H3!

I thought all of the H3's came with cruise control?!?! Or, maybe just the luxury model, as opposed to the base or Adventure models? I have it in mine. The H3 is not really comfortable for the right leg ...lol.. when driving distances. I find I have to keep hard pressure on the gas pedal to keep it going. Locally is fine .. but distances, uh-uh. I still love it, though. :D

Regarding supporting the troops .. I always have and always will. Thanks for your kind words. :)

Thanks for the update! By the way, f5fstop still hasn't come back online. He must be on vacation. He'll be sorry he missed all of this. :giggling:

[mountainbiker]

I thought all of the H3's came with cruise control?!?! Or, maybe just the luxury model, as opposed to the base or Adventure models?You know what? I am just assuming mine doesn't have it. I didn't see the buttons on the steering wheel horn area, so I assuming no cruise control. Is it on the left steering column? LOL- this has been my first real trip in the thing (and it was dark), so I haven't learned all the buttons yet.

BTW- I noticed that either the botch light installer or the new installer broke the clips around the trim ring that goes around the rear window. Joy! I am going to have to PM partsguy for a part number.

[mountainbiker]

In case anyone is looking for the part number of the rear door/rear window trim ring, partsguy hooked us up with the part numbers:

15841243 Cashmere w/Black specks
15780849 Gray
15791514 Cashmere soild

[Hmmm2]

You know what? I am just assuming mine doesn't have it. I didn't see the buttons on the steering wheel horn area, so I assuming no cruise control. Is it on the left steering column?
The cruise control is located on the LEFT side .. in the same area as the window washing and where your directional lights are. Not to confuse it with the window washing 'little paddle' that allows you to have your windshield sprayed once) moves forward).. the cruise control has a little 'paddle' that goes left to right .. for off, maintain speed and accelerate. Do you see that area?:confused:

[BlueHUMMERH2]

Glad you got the main problem fixed!

Yeah, like Humm3 said, on the stalk, there is a little slider on the end. If you slide that in one notch, you will make the cruise active. Then to set the speed, press in the center end of the stalk (it's a round button almost as round as the stalk, you'll feel it). Then when cruising, if you press that button again, you'll drop 1MPH, and if you use the slider, and push it all the way in, it will rebound. This with either increase speed by 1MPH or "resume" your cruising speed if you have to brake for some reason, and need to come back up to speed.

[deserth3]

Never thought about the conversion. What has to be done? You should get your money back.

I have the adventure package. It has the cruise on the turn signal knob. I drove a basic as a loaner and I'm pretty sure it had cruise too.

Glad to hear your babies fixed.

[Hmmm2]

Mountainbiker, did you ever find your cruise control?:confused:

[mountainbiker]

Mountainbiker, did you ever find your cruise control?I did actually. It is a different set up than my Explorer. The Explorer has everything on the steering wheel (horn area), and the H3 has it all tucked into the multi-function left "stalk". Unfortunately, since having made the epic trip to/from the dealer, I have it parked on the base. I am not legally allowed to drive it until it is registered (or at least applied for registration). There are some issues with taxes that I must get sorted out before this can occur. LOL- it has been an interesting "ridw" getting this thing to the point where I can just drive it. Also, prior to the light conversion problem, I had wanted to get a remote start and alarm system like the Viper system in my Explorer; however, I am now afraid to have someone touch the electrical system and screw it up again. Even adding the HitchCam (once the spares are rec'd) seems almost evasive.

[Hmmm2]

LOL- it has been an interesting "ride" getting this thing to the point where I can just drive it.
"Interesting ride" is an understatement, mountainbiker. :crying: I hope it all comes together for you soon. You'll have a lot of driving to do to make up for lost time. Keep us updated here.;)

[mountainbiker]

DAMN, DAMN, DAMN - my key is stuck again! It has been working fine...until...

It is after midnight here. I just picked up my wife at the airport a little while ago. On the way back from the airport, I switched on my SMA roof lights ... nothing. When I got hope I checked the fuse for the lights, and it had a blown 10A fuse. (This fuse is not in the fuse box. It is an external run and connects right next to the mega fuse.) Not thinking I popped in another one, and it immediately blew. I didn't have any more, so I said I'd just mess with it in the morning. This is when I also noticed the key would no longer come out of the ignition.

Now, thinking about it. I could have sworn there use to be a was a 125A fuse, but I think the HUMMER dealer put a 10A fuse in there after my recent visit to them. It didn't dawn on me at the time, but I do recall them saying they swapped a 125A fuse because it was too large. I think maybe it wasn't?

What fuse are you using for your roof lights? I bet it is more than 10A?

I am thinking my key is stuck again, because I blew something when I put in that 10A fuse. The sun roof and wipers don't operate. I have checked ALL the mini fuses, and they appear okay, but I have to be missing something. Do you have any ideas what I could check to try to get the key out?

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r177/mountainbiker63/HUMMER%20Light%20Conv/fuseblock.jpg

[Hmmm2]

OMG, I can't believe this is happening to you again, mountainbiker. :crying: I don't have an answer. Your thoughts about the fuse being too small makes sense. I hope one of the tech guys look in soon for your sake. Or, even anyone with marker lights so they can check their fuse. I don't have marker lights .. yet. Otherwise, your wife may have to go on a scenic drive with you back to the dealer. At least you could use your cruise control this time. I really feel badly for you. You must be feeling livid just about now. :rant:

[Wisha Haddan H3]

omg, not again. I would be so pissed if I were you. Good luck!

[mountainbiker]

Okay, semi-good or almost completely good news. It is morning here, and being able to see better it turned out to be mini fuse #9 (15A). Therefore, if your key sticks, the sun roof doesn't work, and wipers don't -- check this fuse.

The only remaining question I have is what fuse the SMA roof light bar uses. It has a 10A fuse, and I think it should be larger. (You can see this fuse in the picture above. It is the large blade fuse at the top-right not in the fuse box.) I have the question still outstanding with the Texas dealer who installed the bar for me.

[PCBeach]

Jan 18, 2006..2006 H3 w 7474 miles..
Key stuck in ignition., passenger window would not operate, windshield wiper not work.
Replaced RAP/Accessory Relay #88
No trouble since.