Nav install help, 4x4 connector removal?

[HumbleAg]

Can someone please tell me how to disconnect the 4x4 controls connector from the back of the radio surround? I've been messing with it for 30 minutes and it has me beat.:mad:

There is a blue tab on it that pulls out slightly, but I cannot get the connector itself to come out at all. Does the entire thing come out, or just the white contact holder?

Thanks!

[dеiтайожни]

Pull the blue tab out as far as it goes (just a little) so it unlocks the connector and pull the plug out.

[wpage]

Its a snap in or cinch type connector. Use a pointy plastic or wooden instrument like a orange stik to pry and pull it open. If you get a good light on it you will see how it grips. That one is a bear of a clip!:p

[HumbleAg]

Thanks for the help, I finally got it. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to break something.

The trick seems to be to pull out the blue tab (which I did before), then squeeze up on the part holding the tab, that is where the latch is.

On to the easy part now....:)

[marin8703]

which nav you installing?

[H3PAC]

Remember, working on your H3 is just like surgery. If you can't easily separate delicate structures, and become frustrated, carefully place your fingers at the proper points, keep a steady hand, and PULL HARD...REALLY PHUCKING HARD. I have found that one can take anything apart if one pulls hard enough. :D
33966

[HumbleAg]

which nav you installing?

Pioneer AVIC-D2.

Ran into another snag yesterday, so probably won't get it in until next weekend.

Using a Nucleus adapter for bus/chimes/onstar (all in one unit unlike Peripheral and PAC). Seems to work ok, but when chimes go off there is a pretty loud pop from speakers. I've traded e-mail with their tech support and they suggested a resistor on the remote amp turn-on line, if that doesn't work I'll start over with the other guys.

Also putting in a backup camera (ND-BC1) and a cheapo cable for my MP3 player (non-ipod) into the IP-bus.

I'll post some info and pictures once it actually works correctly.

[wpage]

Good luck with nucleus. Having a similar issue with Peripheral. They recomended the wrong interface. Thier exchange process is protracted. Especially after you have everything solderd in and you thought you were done. Never knew GM's onstar and alarms all ran thu the sound system. These interfaces cost more than the old sound systems did! Have fun...:D

[f5fstop]

Pioneer AVIC-D2.

Ran into another snag yesterday, so probably won't get it in until next weekend.

Using a Nucleus adapter for bus/chimes/onstar (all in one unit unlike Peripheral and PAC). Seems to work ok, but when chimes go off there is a pretty loud pop from speakers. I've traded e-mail with their tech support and they suggested a resistor on the remote amp turn-on line, if that doesn't work I'll start over with the other guys.

Also putting in a backup camera (ND-BC1) and a cheapo cable for my MP3 player (non-ipod) into the IP-bus.

I'll post some info and pictures once it actually works correctly.

Make sure not to use the ground circuit supplied to the original radio. Make your own ground. A good place is one of the bolts holding the bracket to the cross-car beam behind where the radio sits.
A bad ground can cause a popping noise when certain functions are performed, and MIGHT be responsible for the pop.

[HumbleAg]

Thanks f5 for the advice, the ground was the first thing I thought of. By the way, I have a printout of your Z1 install post that I am using as my guideline, I plan to give you credit in the footnotes when I post pictures.

I was using a separate ground for the radio, but the neucleus gets its ground from the original wiring (part of their harness). I checked and have virtually no resistance between the two, so I think the ground is ok. I'm using their "pass through" ground to ground the e-brake input and bypass input (but I did try disconnecting those to make sure they weren't an issue).

Talked to Neucleus tech support and the guy thinks I might have just gotten a bad unit. Now we are in the "go back to the ebay vendor to see if they'll make it right" stage. If they don't I'm sure the factory guy will, he seemed to cringe when I mentioned going to Peripheral. I guess it is my fault for going with a somewhat unknown item, but it was cheap.

A bit disappointing, since I'm so excited now I can't really stand it. I don't want to complete the install until I know it all works, I'm afraid the popping might be bad for the speakers and/or amp.

For now I'm impatiently waiting....

[f5fstop]

The factory ground can have a lot of noise on it at times, that won't affect a factory radio due to design. But if it is part of the module, then not much you can do.

Good luck with the new module.

[HumbleAg]

F5, another question for you if you have a moment.

I noticed last night that the Neucleus adapter does not have the bus pass though like peripheral does (purple wires from 24 pin to 12 pin connectors).

I may be grasping, but I'm wondering if this is causing either the onstar or XM to power cycle after the chimes stop, causing my "pop".

Do you see any harm in jumpering the wires like the peripheral tech note describes? (the neucleus has nothing attached to the 12-pin connector at that point)

I asked Neucleus tech support about this, but they haven't come back with a reply. If I can't figure it out, I'll just order the peripheral units (Cardomain has them on sale now anyway).

Thanks!

[f5fstop]

Not sure about the pop. I tend to say no, this won't be the problem; however, there might be some reason the Onstar is popping due to no serial data input from the BCM.

Two class two wires come in on the brown (large) connector, terminals A1 and A2. One class two wire comes in on Pin G of the smaller black.
The wire on Pin A2 is the serial data wire to the radio from the BCM, and is used to communicate between the BCM and the radio, and also from the Onstar and XM modules. The wire on Pin A1 is the pass through wire from the radio to the Onstar module; the wire on Pin G is the pass through wire from the radio to the XM module.

So, Peripheral, before they made the change (which was to jumper the three wires together on their side of the adapter connector), required you to take the three wires going into the back of the two connectors, and splice them together. This way, the BCM still sees the three modules.

If you use the XM antenna for the new Pioneer XM module, a code will be set in the BCM that states the XM has lost antenna signal (something to that affect). It will not turn on the light, but if your vehicle is worked on by a tech, and he scans for codes, these codes will appear.

In addition, under some circumstances with some adapters; not sure which ones. To reprogram the BCM, if ever necessary, the radio fuse has to be pulled. Some of these adapters send out a radio message every so often, to let the BCM know the radio is there; however, some of these adapters constantly send out the signal, and confuses the BCM. I was able to load the new BCM calibration into my H3 without any problem. But I have heard, in some cases, the radio fuse might have to be pulled to program the BCM.

[HumbleAg]

Ok, now I'm officially in over my head. I understand your explanation, but the wire that isn't there is the one on Pin G, so if that is the issue, the XM would likely be causing the pop. The onstar should still be ok (but I didn't test it when I had everything hooked up). It does make sense to me that the XM could be popping because a signal isn't getting transmitted through.

BTW, I didn't get an XM adapter (I don't subscribe now) and I also haven't renewed Onstar (although I know the system should still work).

Easy enough to test, I'll jumper the wires like Peripheral does and see what happens.

I've read some other forums where people say the Metra adapter does the same thing, so I'm thinking maybe there is just an issue with the adapter design. Nothing yet from the ebay guy I bought the adapter from (no big surprise there).

Any issues with the Peripheral adapters? Can you adjust the chime volume, or is the volume ok by default?

Thanks again for the help.