I think my air ride suspension is leaking - Help please

[dna]

Over the last 12 months, I find that my battery is dead in the morning about every 3 months. I simply jump the truck, and everything is good again for another 3 months. Its not the battery, since GM replaced it under warranty about 9 months ago. I also took the H2 to GM under warranty two times for this, and each time they could not find any unusual draw on the battery when off - they also confirmed the battery is good.

What I saw today though is different. My drivers side rear suspension/shock was about 3 inches lower than the passenger (really noticed it when I sat in the H2). I think the reat air shock is leaking, which is causing the compressor to kick in causing my battery to leak.

After jumping it today, I raised it back to normal by activating the air suspension and drove it around fro a while - all was good. Then I put the suspension back to normal, and again all was good. So at the moment the air shocks seem fine, though something definately happened yesterday over night.

Any ideas?

Thanks

[1bada$$h1]

http://www.duckproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=1&subid=1&plid=720
;)

[working Hummer]

But your air ride pump doesn't run when the truck is tuned off. So don't see the problem there.;)

[mdoyle]

I had a similar problem to yours, leaking air suspension and a dead battery. As already mentioned the compressor doesn't run with the key off so that's not causing the problem.

What I found is that on occasion when I removed the key, there would be a partial illumination of the instrument cluster- the shift position indicator would be lit as was the red battery light. Putting the key back in and moving it would make them go out but if I was in a hurry and missed it, the battery would be dead as a door nail.

I finally took the column apart and replaced the ignition start switch (covered in another thread). End of problem.

If your airbags are leaking, get those fixed pronto. They don't cost much but the compressor will and leaking bags can spell an early end for it.

[Agriv8r]

http://www.duckproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=1&subid=1&plid=720
;)


thats just wrong, funnnnnyy, but wrong!

[DennisAJC]

What I found is that on occasion when I removed the key, there would be a partial illumination of the instrument cluster- the shift position indicator would be lit as was the red battery light. Putting the key back in and moving it would make them go out but if I was in a hurry and missed it, the battery would be dead as a door nail.



x2

For some reason, it will not shut down some accesories and an overnight powerdrain occures.

[It\'s a Dry Heat]

Hit the button to raise the backend 2" then take a picture of your lop-sided truck in the morning for the dealer. You will have proof it leaks.:excited:

Vern

[dna]

It hasn't done that sagging thing since, and my battery has been fine again since. I find about every month or two, I come out to find a totally dead battery. It is intermitent, which is the hardest to find.

I am planning on instaling a 2nd battery in the engine area connected to a switch, but a 1-way charge setup. I want a setup where both batteries get a charge (to keep both at fully capaicty), but a switch that controls which battery is being used for the accessories. That way if the battery gets drained one night, I just pop hood, turn switch and go (and charge the other battery back while I driver). My H2 has stranded me too many times in the last 2 years (at least 8 times). Anyone ever wire up such a setup?

Thanks

[It\'s a Dry Heat]

Yes I have! If you want to go that rout go to an RV parts house and get a battery isolator. about $50 bucks. Directions come with the isolator. I had no problems with this product.

Mine was not this kind. but heresthe link.
http://www.wagnerproducts.com/isolator.htm

Mine was this type.
http://www.hellroaring.com/4wheel.php

[mdoyle]

Here's my write up on the switch replacement:
http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25841&highlight=start+ignition+switch