Next Project - Inverter and Dual Battery Setup...few questions.

[Jesse]

Next project……Power inverter and dual battery setup.

I have done a little reading on the site and have found a few people that have installed inverters and dual batteries.

I would like to know if anyone can share their own experiences and how they handled these options.

Inverters – I am thinking something like 900-1500 watt or possibly a 600-800 watt true sine wave inverter. I tailgate a lot and we run TV’s and satellite dish on the setup.

Dual Battery – I have found one company that makes a kit – Wrangler NW. But it seems you only have one option for the batteries that it works with. I am thinking that the Optima yellow top batteries are the best option. Anyone have any dual setup with optima batteries? Are there any other kits out there on the market? Also – has anyone else installed a 2nd battery in any other location?

I would appreciate any feedback.

Thank you.

[Jesse]

Next project……Power inverter and dual battery setup.

I have done a little reading on the site and have found a few people that have installed inverters and dual batteries.

I would like to know if anyone can share their own experiences and how they handled these options.

Inverters – I am thinking something like 900-1500 watt or possibly a 600-800 watt true sine wave inverter. I tailgate a lot and we run TV’s and satellite dish on the setup.

Dual Battery – I have found one company that makes a kit – Wrangler NW. But it seems you only have one option for the batteries that it works with. I am thinking that the Optima yellow top batteries are the best option. Anyone have any dual setup with optima batteries? Are there any other kits out there on the market? Also – has anyone else installed a 2nd battery in any other location?

I would appreciate any feedback.

Thank you.

[NJ H2]

kodiakz has a dual Optima set-up
http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/ga/ul/6361048641/inlineimg/Y/DSC01137.JPG

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by NJ H2:
kodiakz has a dual Optima set-up
http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/ga/ul/6361048641/inlineimg/Y/DSC01137.JPG </div></BLOCKQUOTE>How did I miss this. NJ where did he discuss this setup?

[DRTYFN]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jesse:
I would appreciate any feedback.

Thank you. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Only because you said thank you. Learn to use the find feature.
http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/6706011751/m/7.../728105866#728105866 (http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/6706011751/m/728105866/r/728105866#728105866)

[DRTYFN]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
Dretynfn has a dual setup, but not sure which one.

If you don't have air, then there is plenty of room to mount a battery (or two) in the air compressor area. Run power to the charging circuit and you'd have a good power soure at the rear of the vehicle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You'll have to make sure the battery is completely protected from the elements. I've seen even Optimas vent after they've gotten wet. I had one do that after washing the engine bay on another vehicle.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DRTYFN:
You'll have to make sure the battery is completely protected from the elements. I've seen even Optimas vent after they've gotten wet. I had one do that after washing the engine bay on another vehicle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Always someone quick to put down my ideas http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Phil,
It's a fine idea...that I hope to implement one of these days.

To avoid the elements buy a small pelican case, drill holes in it (voiding waterproof warantee), put battery in it, run cables, seal with silicone and check seals regularly.

[Jesse]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DRTYFN:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
Dretynfn has a dual setup, but not sure which one.

If you don't have air, then there is plenty of room to mount a battery (or two) in the air compressor area. Run power to the charging circuit and you'd have a good power soure at the rear of the vehicle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You'll have to make sure the battery is completely protected from the elements. I've seen even Optimas vent after they've gotten wet. I had one do that after washing the engine bay on another vehicle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have air suspension - so I guess this is not an option.

[Jesse]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by NJ H2:
kodiakz has a dual Optima set-up
http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/ga/ul/6361048641/inlineimg/Y/DSC01137.JPG </div></BLOCKQUOTE>How did I miss this. NJ where did he discuss this setup? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Are there more pictures of this setup? Did you have to build a custom tray? I have seen some setups where there is an isolator installed. Even a switch in the cabin for which batter to use. Looks like there is nothing like that on this setup. How would this setup work and benefit me?

The idea for me is that I tailgate a lot and I don't want to run down my battery to where I can't start my truck.

[Klaus]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jesse:
Are there more pictures of this setup? Did you have to build a custom tray? I have seen some setups where there is an isolator installed. Even a switch in the cabin for which batter to use. Looks like there is nothing like that on this setup. How would this setup work and benefit me? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I was thinking the same thing... It appears all you get with a parallel battery setup would be more capacity. You would still have the danger of draining both batteries and no reserve.

Still, an isolator could be added to this setup. Looks good.

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DRTYFN:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
Dretynfn has a dual setup, but not sure which one.

If you don't have air, then there is plenty of room to mount a battery (or two) in the air compressor area. Run power to the charging circuit and you'd have a good power soure at the rear of the vehicle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You'll have to make sure the battery is completely protected from the elements. I've seen even Optimas vent after they've gotten wet. I had one do that after washing the engine bay on another vehicle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I'll have to disagree. You can dunk an optima and keep going. Even regular batteries work fine when left to the elements. We have old pieces of equipment with exposed battery boxes that just sit out in the weather all of the time.

As far as the optimas are concerned, they are sealed. If it vents, then there is a breach in one of the cells. The other thing with optimas is that you can mount them sideways, diagonally, just about anyway you need and they are fine, since they are sealed.

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Klaus:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jesse:
Are there more pictures of this setup? Did you have to build a custom tray? I have seen some setups where there is an isolator installed. Even a switch in the cabin for which batter to use. Looks like there is nothing like that on this setup. How would this setup work and benefit me? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I was thinking the same thing... It appears all you get with a parallel battery setup would be more capacity. You would still have the danger of draining both batteries and no reserve.

Still, an isolator could be added to this setup. Looks good. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Yeah, he just has extra capacity but you could easily add the wrangler setup Drty has or something similar and use the larger capacity optimas he has in there.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jesse:
I have seen some setups where there is an isolator installed. Even a switch in the cabin for which batter to use. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I have a similar setup on my boat, one cranking battery and one deep cycle with a switch (1 - 2 - Both). Something like that would work better for you and allow you to isolate the cranking battery and use the deep cycle for running your stuff. A few leads and a switch/isolator added to the above setup would work fine. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

And I've looked into some voltage sensing relays that route charge to both batteries when you have charging current going to the main batter, but disconnect the relay when the charging current goes away. There are some fancy (somewhat pricy) variants of this which add a manual override to connect the backup battery to the starter battery even if charging current is absent so that you can leave all your accessories wired to the main battery, have a second battery getting charged all the time, and beable to use the second battery in a pinch.

I think the vendors call these battery combiners. West marine has one but it isn't rated for starting current. Xantrex makes one called the PathMaker (http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/104/p/1/pt/5/product.asp). You could surely wire up something from cheaper components if you wanted to save your money.

[Jesse]

Here is what I would like to have happen - I am not sure if this is possible.

When we tailgate - we always have our satellite dish hooked up to a portable dish. With one battery we run the dish for about an hour then start the truck and let it run for 20 minutes. We have on a couple of occasions lost track of time and did not have enough juice to start the truck. I am hoping I can have a dual battery setup that can help avoid this. Now here is problem number 2 – when starting the car – the ignition cuts off the current for everything else or at least kills the power to the inverter so that it has to reset. This causes our dish to lose signal and also reset. When this happens the satellite receiver needs to re-acquire all the guide info. This takes 10 minutes and we don’t have 10 minutes.

I am sure any football fans can understand the huge stress this puts on all us tailgaters.

I am hoping the dual battery setup will prevent this from happening.

[NJ H2]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
NJ where did he discuss this setup? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


KLINK HERE! (http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/2606011751/m/9451048641/p/1) http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jesse:
Here is what I would like to have happen - I am not sure if this is possible.

When we tailgate - we always have our satellite dish hooked up to a portable dish. With one battery we run the dish for about an hour then start the truck and let it run for 20 minutes. We have on a couple of occasions lost track of time and did not have enough juice to start the truck. I am hoping I can have a dual battery setup that can help avoid this. Now here is problem number 2 – when starting the car – the ignition cuts off the current for everything else or at least kills the power to the inverter so that it has to reset. This causes our dish to lose signal and also reset. When this happens the satellite receiver needs to re-acquire all the guide info. This takes 10 minutes and we don’t have 10 minutes.

I am sure any football fans can understand the huge stress this puts on all us tailgaters.

I am hoping the dual battery setup will prevent this from happening. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

It sounds like you want to:
- add a deep cycle second battery that you can rundown and recharge often
- use an isolator/switch/combiner/relay to prevent simultaneous discharge of both batteries when the alternator's not charging
- run the inverter and dish off of the second battery
- don't run anything off of the main battery withut the truck running as that would compromise the ability to start the truck

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by NJ H2:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
NJ where did he discuss this setup? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


KLINK HERE! (http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/2606011751/m/9451048641/p/1) http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Thanks, I have aked for some more details from him.

[PARAGON]

Jesse,

If you want to make you a temp setup that you could put in the back for when you go to tailgate, it would be pretty easy.

Make you a little box that would hold an optima battery and an inverter, making sure it can ventilate. Have your outlets on the outside of the box and either rig you up a plug to plug into your trailer plug or run a wire from the trailer plug up into the rear to plug into.

There is a POS at the trailer plug designed to charge/recharge batteries on trailers. On your little box you could but wire a voltmeter to the outside so you would know when to crank the truck to recharge the battery.

[PARAGON]

Oh, and that would solve both of your problems.

[ree]

Paragon's idea is good to get you going quick.

But, how about getting a high amperage Jump-n-Carry with the continuous DC charge circuit and run the inverter off of that. Keep it plugged into the truck when not-tailgating, and unplug it when tailgating to prevent accidental discharge since the accessory outlets aren't on on a RAP (retained accessory power) circuit.

[ree]

Forgot to mention that the Jump-n-Carry's hjave built in voltmeter so you can tell if they've got charge. Basically, it's paragon's design in a consumer package.

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ree:
Paragon's idea is good to get you going quick.

But, how about getting a high amperage Jump-n-Carry with the continuous DC charge circuit and run the inverter off of that. Keep it plugged into the truck when not-tailgating, and unplug it when tailgating to prevent accidental discharge since the accessory outlets aren't on on a RAP (retained accessory power) circuit. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Hence my idea, but I don't think any have the durability nor longevity that something like a yellow top optima would offer. I had one that would not hold the charge only after a few discharges.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ree:
Paragon's idea is good to get you going quick.

But, how about getting a high amperage Jump-n-Carry with the continuous DC charge circuit and run the inverter off of that. Keep it plugged into the truck when not-tailgating, and unplug it when tailgating to prevent accidental discharge since the accessory outlets aren't on on a RAP (retained accessory power) circuit. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Hence my idea, but I don't think any have the durability nor longevity that something like a yellow top optima would offer. I had one that would not hold the charge only after a few discharges. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Good to know.

We've got one for jumping. I've never even considered using it for inverter power even though the packaging suggests they can be used that way.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ree:
It sounds like you want to:
- add a deep cycle second battery that you can rundown and recharge often
- use an isolator/switch/combiner/relay to prevent simultaneous discharge of both batteries when the alternator's not charging
- run the inverter and dish off of the second battery
- don't run anything off of the main battery withut the truck running as that would compromise the ability to start the truck </div></BLOCKQUOTE>That would be pretty easy, just use one deep cycle battery (Blue Optima) and regular one for cranking (Yellow or Red Optima) and have a solenoid between the + of the two batteries and wire to an ignition switched source and have your inverter wired only to the deep cycle.

As soon as you turn the ignition off, the deep cycle battery would be isolated. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

And if you want to beable to jump from the backup battery, use a hybrid battery like the yellow top, then wire a switch between an always on circuit and the solenoid. Flip this switch to manually connect the batteries.



Guys,
Who's actually done this custom-style on their hummer. A small group of us has discussed it, but not gotten around to actually doing it as far as I can tell http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

[Jesse]

Does Jump-N-Carry have a website? I had not thought of this option. I wonder if the bins in the back of the H2 are big enough to hold one of these.

I wonder if how long the batter would last when using it as an inverter. Has anyone here acutally used one of these or carry them around in their H2?

This seems like it might be a much cheaper and more practical solution providing there was a good place to store it and a way to recharge it when the truck is running. I have so many more questions regarding this product.

How long could it run my inverters assuming I had a 32" LCD TV and satellite dish hooked up to it.

How fast can it recharge?

Can I hook it up to the 12 volt dc port in the back of the H2 so it charges only when the truck is running?

Anyone know more about these? I can't even find their home website.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jesse:
Does Jump-N-Carry have a website?
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Google Says: http://www.jumpstarter.com/site_cat.asp?family_pk=11&br_pk=37&category_pk=70 (http://www.jumpstarter.com/site_cat.asp?family_pk=11&amp;br_pk=37&amp;category_pk=70)

You know you can use google.com too http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I had not thought of this option. I wonder if the bins in the back of the H2 are big enough to hold one of these. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Some models might, but would become lethal flying weapons in an abrupt stop or accident. Remeber, these are heavy batteries
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
I wonder if how long the batter would last when using it as an inverter. Has anyone here acutally used one of these or carry them around in their H2?
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
We keep one in my wife's car for jumps. I haven't the foggiest how long it'll run an inverter.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
This seems like it might be a much cheaper and more practical solution providing there was a good place to store it and a way to recharge it when the truck is running. I have so many more questions regarding this product.

How long could it run my inverters assuming I had a 32" LCD TV and satellite dish hooked up to it.

How fast can it recharge?
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The manual on my 4000 model says to charge for 24-48 hours after significant discharges, and much shorter periods after jumps.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
Can I hook it up to the 12 volt dc port in the back of the H2 so it charges only when the truck is running?
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Some models have this capability. Redundantly: Not all do.

[Jesse]

Ok - seems like the best option would be two Optima Yellow top batteries. With my accessories - Inverter and maybe sound/video system drawing from the 2nd battery. This way I would never run down the main battery.

Obviously wiring up the inverter to the 2nd battery is easy - but does anyone know how I would move the power for the factory sound/video system to the 2nd battery?

[PARAGON]

Under the hood, there is a wire that serves the main power block there. You would remove that from your starting battery and have it coming from your second battery.

It's very easy to do.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Under the hood, there is a wire that serves the main power block there. You would remove that from your starting battery and have it coming from your second battery. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Would you still be able to start the vehicle if the 2nd battery was totally flat? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yeah, where does the computer get power? Doesn't it need to be running right to be able to start the truck?

[PARAGON]

I am assuming some sort of combiner/isolator will be utilized. If this is the case, then you would simply combine the two for starting purposes and the "juice" from the starting battery would give you power for the electronics.

[ree]

Sounds like we went in a circle.

For Jesse to wire the stereo sound system to the second battery (isolated from the startger battery) he's going to want to leave all of the main fusebox connected to the primary battery. But then needs to do what Phil suggested and move the RADIO and RDO AMP circuits off the main fuse box and hook directly (fused that is) to the second battery. Are these two circuits sufficient to move the entire sock sound system off the main battery? It looks like all the others are unrelated to sound.

This seems much simpler than connecting the second battery to the engine-compartment fuse box and coping with any computer related starting issues.

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ree:
Sounds like we went in a circle.

For Jesse to wire the stereo sound system to the second battery (isolated from the startger battery) he's going to want to leave all of the main fusebox connected to the primary battery. But then needs to do what Phil suggested and move the RADIO and RDO AMP circuits off the main fuse box and hook directly (fused that is) to the second battery. Are these two circuits sufficient to move the entire sock sound system off the main battery? It looks like all the others are unrelated to sound.

This seems much simpler than connecting the second battery to the engine-compartment fuse box and coping with any computer related starting issues. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>No, I don't think that's what has just been said at all. You isolate the batteries so that when a draw occurs everything except for the starter draws from one battery. Then, upon start, they are combined for extra available cranking amps as well as providing power for the electronics should one have drained the main battery completely dead.

You could have the "switch" to the combiner portion controlled by an actual in-cab switch or even power from the ignition circuit, so that when you turn the key to start, it locks up the solenoid and provides power from both batteries.

At any rate, I would suggest buying one of the isolator/combiner kits if you are going to do the dual battery deal. You also want to isolate the batteries from each other during the charging and there is no real way to easily do this without utilizing one of their kits.

[ree]

Paragon,
I personally agree that that's the way to go.

I was just trying to answer what I thought was necessary if Jesse really wanted to run he stereo off of the second (deep-cycle) battery. I think he wants to beable to crank up the stereo and run the dish+TV on the second battery possibly draining it, then when he's ready to go home, expect the primary battery to start and power the entire car.

But it makes just as much sense, or more, to swap the primary battery with two hybrids, run everything off of the primary batter, and keep a second hybrid completely isolated from discharge except when wanting to start. This is the brain-dead approach. You don't have worry about accidentally draining both batteries.

Trying to wire just the inverter and stereo to one battery and running everything else off of the other battery is, in my opinion, a more complicated way to achieve a similar ends provided Jesse uses the system the way Jesse says he will and doesn't accidentally run something off of the main battery at the same time.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Alec W:
Glad I read this thread.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

At the risk of thinking you're actually serious http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Can one of you add your thoughts to something I think I need http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

My problem is that I don’t drive mine much and the battery tends to loose charge after a couple of weeks, I know this is not great for the battery but such is life. After jumping it in sub zero temperatures recently and reading this tread I am thinking about a better solution.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
One solution. Drive it more. I take it you've worked with a dealer to try to find the source of the problem and haven't yet.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
Get one of these: http://www.toolking.com/productinfo.aspx?cid=481&productid=6682 (http://www.toolking.com/productinfo.aspx?cid=481&amp;productid=6682)
Secure it (not sure how but that’s just a detail) in the back of the truck so it can be removed fairly easily but wont fly around.
Plug it full time into the DC socket back there (so it is always charged).
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Just make sure you get the model that can charge from DC. Some of them only charge from AC power.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Cut the crocodile clips off and put a connector in the cables.
Extend a set of cables to connect directly to the truck battery and add the same connector used for the crocodile clips at the back end.
Basically I would connect the cables to the battery when I need to jump it and disconnect when I am done, and can also still use the regular crocodile clips when I need portable power source.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
According to Clore, you can actually jump using a double-male dildo cigarette adapter thingy that you plug into jump starter and a power outlet in the car. I'd be really wary of trying this, but if it's frigging cold, I might give it a try for a couple seconds. BTW, it says this on the box not in the manual.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
This is the basic setup. One improvement would be to have the cables always connected to the main battery and a switch on the dash to activate. This would save my lazy ass from having to get up and open the gate to connect the cables. I have no clue how to wire something like this improvement or if it can even be done.

Excuse my layman’s terms I am not good with this electrical stuff.

Thoughts? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You definitely can't keep it wired to the battery all the time. The alternator current will overcharge and damage the battery in the jumpstarter. SO you'd have to do as you suggest, either connect it by hand or wire in a switch. You'd need to run fairly heavy guage wire to ensure you can safely carry a starting current load. But that sounds like a lot more work that hefting the jumpstarter around the front and hooking up the cables every once in a while. It really isn't nearly as much work to jump from a portable jump starter as it is to jump from a second car.

Regardless of whether you want to try to wire it in somehow, getting one that you can charge from a DC outlet definitely offers nice peace of mind.

[PARAGON]

You don't want all of that, I don't think. The DC outlets are powered all of the time. So the add-on thingy would be draining down along with the stock battery assuming that it's a simple circuit that charges the thingy's battery which many of these thingies are.

A better solution would be to buy a solar panel and have it wire to trickle charge the battery. You could also wire in a plug that would allow you to plug in a trickle charger and charge it from your home's outlet.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
You don't want all of that, I don't think. The DC outlets are powered all of the time. So the add-on thingy would be draining down along with the stock battery assuming that it's a simple circuit that charges the thingy's battery which many of these thingies are. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Dohhhh! I vaguely recall going through this thought process a while back and concluding the same thing since the outlets are always hot.

Then promptly forgetting apparently. I hate my memory.

Dohhhh! I vaguely recall going through this thought process a while back and concluding the same thing since the outlets are always hot.

Then promptly forgetting apparently. I hate my memory.

Paragon, good thing you remembered. Saved Alec some money and some enragement at me http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">A better solution would be to buy a solar panel and have it wire to trickle charge the battery. You could also wire in a plug that would allow you to plug in a trickle charger and charge it from your home's outlet. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The solar approach might be nice if it's outdoors a lot.

The jump-n-carry guide says to charge it once a month in summer months and at least once every three months in the colder months. I just charge it one weekend a month overnight or for a day until the charge is up to 14V on the built in meter. Yes a pain, but better than having to jump car to car or getting stranded.

[kodiakz]

Fot those that want the security of never having a dead battery, just add a heavy duty 200 amp isolator to my setup and only one of the 2 could be made live when the ignition is off.