Bump stop extender

[Stevenblanca]

Has any one extended or installed a larger front bump stop after lifting their H3.

[tomp]

I would like to take a look at seeing what is required to do this mod, but have not had time. After cranking up TBs off the stops, I get more body roll and would like to extend the stops back to where they touch again, to reduce the roll

[HummBebe]

I'm looking at trying the air bump stops by fox...

http://shaffersoffroad.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=73&products_id=439

http://shaffersoffroad.com/catalog/images/foxair.jpg

[Desert Dan]

Why raise it an then limit your travel?

[HummBebe]

As far as I know at this point, they are progressive and prevent the shock from bottoming out.

The do make 2-4 inch versions, the pic I posted is a longer version. If you click on the link you will see the shorter one.

[Stevenblanca]

I'm looking at trying the air bump stops by fox...

http://shaffersoffroad.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=73&products_id=439

http://shaffersoffroad.com/catalog/images/foxair.jpg

They look good. But not cheap. They seem like a good compromise to reduce nose diving and rolling (the sway bar could also :beerchug: be beefed up to fix the rolling), while maintaining upwards travel.

Thanks.:perfect10s:

[HummBebe]

Heavy Duty Torsion bars will help with body roll and nose dive too.

[H3slate]

How about these for bump stops.

http://www.lightracing.com/images/back_h3_jounce.jpg
You can get them here, http://www.lightracing.com/lightracing25870.html

I think that these are probably geared more towards racing and high speed jumps as opposed to rock crawling.

[tomp]

Anyone else here thinking Bebe needs to add these? Let's see, cranked up the front and rear away from the OEM stops.....Hmmmm - me thinks these are in order:popcorn:

[HummBebe]

How about these for bump stops.

http://www.lightracing.com/images/back_h3_jounce.jpg
You can get them here, http://www.lightracing.com/lightracing25870.html

I think that these are probably geared more towards racing and high speed jumps as opposed to rock crawling.
THOSE ARE THE ONES I FOUND BUT COULD NOT FIND AGAIN!!!!!!


THANKS YOU!!!!!!!:jump::jump:

[Stevenblanca]

Those look great. however I see this problem:

If you install longer shocks like the cognito/bilstein, with this bumpstop, the upper (A) control arm will hit the bump stop bracket at full droop. This will not be a problem if you have a short shock like the original hummer shock. However the hummer shocks limits travel with a lifted H3. Maybe another way of mounting the bracket could help.

Thanks great BS (Bump Stop), :giggling:

[tomp]

Steve,
There is not that much travel back towards the frame rail. Most of the movement is out towards the end of the control arms where the wheel is. Look at it this way - you crank the TBs to raise the front 2-3 inches and this does not even move the bump stops off the control arms but less than a 1/2".

[Stevenblanca]

Just went out and measured. I have 4 turns on the TB and have a 1/2 inch gap between the bumpstop and the A-arm, just like you said. However the upper controll arm is also just about 1/2 inch away from bump stop bracket.

I plan to go 8 turns and cognito shocks. I think that combination would just be the ticket to hit the bracket on a droop. If you still think this will not be the case please let me know.

Looking at the bump stop bracket I can see a cheap solution. You could just cut the front part of the bumpstop bracket. Just were the bulge is. This part is not welded to the rest and is only attached at the bottom. This way you will get about 1/2 inch more of space for the A-arm to move closer to the frame. As you said previously the gain at the outer end of the A-arm would be much greater.

After that you could just buy a larger size bump stop rubber to cover the +- 1 inch gap. The bumpstop should be a high quality progressive type that can compress 2 inches or more so not to limit travel. I think I'll go that route. I will probably also need longer connecting rods for the swaybar.

The discussion here is great. I apreciate it.

P.S. a word of caution . Cutting part of the bumpstop bracket, as explained above, may cause the shaft of the inner tie rod to hit the outer edge of its fastener and break at full droop. Thats another problem without solution for now.

The discussion here is great. I apreciate it.

[Stevenblanca]

I think this could be a proper and relatively inexpensive solution:

http://www.timbren.com/images/internal/aeon-springs/aeon-triple-convolution.gif

There is even a kit for the hummer H3.

http://www.stengelbros.com/TimbrenKitsforHummer.htm#SUV

But that is for a non lifted H3. For a lifted H3 you must choose the right height the right load rating and have a bolt ready. The stop is progressive and available in all kind of sizes and loads.

[tomp]

Timbrens are not bump stops, but are load-assist type

[Stevenblanca]

The H3 bumpstop is not an old style bumpstop. It is not a classical "hard" bump stop. It compresses progresively . The timbren has the same behaviour. It should help to remove the nosedive and some rolling from a lifted H3. It is in any case much better than having that gap of one inch down there. The timbren H3 kit installs at the same location as the H3 bumpstop. Just my 2c

[tomp]

knowing that, I think they will work just fine if we can get custom sizes for H3s with cranked TBs

[HummBebe]

Problem is, everyone has them cranked differently. We should have them made for max in front, (24.25" from center of hub to base of fender) rear, well not sure.