Anyone negotiate price on a 2008?

[Texas Red]

I had my H2 in for service and took the opportunity to take a look at the 2008 H3s. I found one I liked so much that I let the salesperson run the numbers. Out of the chute they gave me $500 off MSRP and low-balled my H2 trade-in.

What should I be able to get? Is it too early to expect a decent deal?

[BST1YET]

just buy one the new 2007's they have. You will be able to get some nice rebates, 0% and best of all...it doesn't have the stupid grey bumper like the 2008's

[wannabeH3]

they will sell me a fully loaded alpha for like 43700 if i can get it down to 42 ill buy

[hummerpartsman]

MY DEALERSHIP IS SELLING THE H3 ALPHA FOR UNDER 42,000. WHAT OPTIONS ARE YOU WANTING? IF YOU DONT MIND TRAVELING YOU COULD GET A GOOD DEAL.

[hummerpartsman]

JUST TALKED TO A SALESMAN (STEVEN B.) HE SAYS HE COULD GET YOU A ALPHA FOR UNDER $40,000. YOU CAN LOOK AT OUR WEB SITE AT WWW.HUMMEROFSIOUXFALL.COM OR CALL AND ASK FOR STEVEN B.

[Texas Red]

Thanks guys. But I'm not looking at the Alpha. I'm looking at the 2008 base model Lux plus automatic and sunroof.

They have a sweet looking Graphite Lux without the chrome, i.e. black door handels and mirrors. You don't usually see that combo. If they work with me I may get a color matched Grill to replace the chrome. I'm not into bling. It's a Hummer.

[wannabeH3]

i want a fully loaded alpha, offroad package and all, and i have a supplier discount, but dang SD is a little far to drive from seattle.. might as well buy local...

[hummerpartsman]

THE PRICE OF ONE WAY TICKET WOULD STILL SAVE YOU $. I DROVE IT IN 24 HOURS LAST MONTH NOT A BAD DRIVE

[LesC.]

I picked up my loaded 08 alpha for 40,600.

[3Hummer]

Id take the H3 Alpha in a hearbeat, just what kills me about it, is how it comes stock with the stupid chrome! but the v-8 is totally worth it. Im also not a big fan of the new front bumpber, but again worth it!

[6pack]

Id take the H3 Alpha in a hearbeat, just what kills me about it, is how it comes stock with the stupid chrome! but the v-8 is totally worth it. Im also not a big fan of the new front bumpber, but again worth it!

That bling was one of my problems with it also. But the big killer was the automatic. Where's the love for the manual transmission!? I forget what I had the price to, I know it was under 40k, just can't remember if it was 39k or 36k.

[Texas Red]

They were willing to deal. Once they knew I was serious about it, I got a better trade-in number on the H2 and they knocked a suitable amount more off the MSRP. So I pick up my new H3 today.
:dancingbanana:

[6pack]

Congrats!

[RubHer Yellow Ducky]

Pricing has been talked about alot, but its fun to continue...

First, never talk about list or MSRP. Never let it past your lips or the salespersons. If they say it just remind them in good taste to please not use that term...

Start your offer at "FACTORY DEALER COST" minus the transportation cost, any programs or rebates and minus the 3% factory rebate (holdback) from GM to dealers. OH also if that dealer is part of an advertising coop, deduct the advertising money. You should be able to look this up on the internet. As far as I know that is the BOTTOM LINE...KBB or other sites

DO NOT start pricing any dealer add ons at this point or mention a trade.

If possible I try and get the on duty sales manager involved right away.

If you live in BFE its better to go to a large city that has more then 1 dealer.

Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays during the day time are the best days and time. NEVER NEVER on the Weekend. Three to five days from the end of the month AND close to the end of their quarter.

I'm 60 and bought my first vehicle when i was 17 and the only Car/Truck/SUV that I ever paid more then factory invoice for was a 1964 1/2 Mustang.

After you make your best deal then you can talk about dealer add on's and trades... Then you will know the REAL value of those add ons and trade

[Texas Red]

I'm not one of those who has to get a better deal than anyone else, although I do go in armed with dealer cost data to talk from. Once I get what I think is a fair price, I shake hands and write a check for it.
:beerchug:

[RubHer Yellow Ducky]

A GOOD DEAL is when both the the BUYER and SELLER are happy ...!

[Agriv8r]

Pricing has been talked about alot, but its fun to continue...

First, never talk about list or MSRP. Never let it past your lips or the salespersons. If they say it just remind them in good taste to please not use that term...

Start your offer at "FACTORY DEALER COST" minus the transportation cost, any programs or rebates and minus the 3% factory rebate (holdback) from GM to dealers. OH also if that dealer is part of an advertising coop, deduct the advertising money. You should be able to look this up on the internet. As far as I know that is the BOTTOM LINE...KBB or other sites

DO NOT start pricing any dealer add ons at this point or mention a trade.

If possible I try and get the on duty sales manager involved right away.

If you live in BFE its better to go to a large city that has more then 1 dealer.

Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays during the day time are the best days and time. NEVER NEVER on the Weekend. Three to five days from the end of the month AND close to the end of their quarter.

I'm 60 and bought my first vehicle when i was 17 and the only Car/Truck/SUV that I ever paid more then factory invoice for was a 1964 1/2 Mustang.

After you make your best deal then you can talk about dealer add on's and trades... Then you will know the REAL value of those add ons and trade


so just to get this right, you think you should be able to pay exactly what the dealer paid, then have him also include the shipping costs, advertising and then the rebates as well??? sounds fantastic, but when the dealers lose the money you are talking about to sell you a car, how do they saty in business?? frankly i dont see any dealer even discussing that senario with you...but it did make for amusing reading...

[RubHer Yellow Ducky]

so just to get this right, you think you should be able to pay exactly what the dealer paid, NO ! then have him also include the shipping costs, advertising and then the rebates as well??? sounds fantastic, but when the dealers lose the money you are talking about to sell you a car, how do they saty in business?? frankly i dont see any dealer even discussing that senario with you...but it did make for amusing reading...

If you reread what i said was, start going up from the actual cost, not going down from the list. I never paid actual cost but I have bought at dealer net minus ad costs and or delivery charges. The dealer making HOLDBACK is very common and not un-heard-of in many metro markets, smaller markets no...

If I were buying a notebook, or a shirt , or maybe inexpensive cookware i might not haggle as much, but on a $30K, or $40K, or $60K vehicle dam right I want the best price I can get. I worked hard for what I have and what my DADDY told me still holds true: "BETTER IN MY POCKET, NOT THEIRS"

[Hummer Aficionado_VT]

"BETTER IN MY POCKET, NOT THEIRS"

Amen!:beerchug:

[Agriv8r]

If you reread what i said was, start going up from the actual cost, not going down from the list. I never paid actual cost but I have bought at dealer net minus ad costs and or delivery charges. The dealer making HOLDBACK is very common and not un-heard-of in many metro markets, smaller markets no...

If I were buying a notebook, or a shirt , or maybe inexpensive cookware i might not haggle as much, but on a $30K, or $40K, or $60K vehicle dam right I want the best price I can get. I worked hard for what I have and what my DADDY told me still holds true: "BETTER IN MY POCKET, NOT THEIRS"

if you reread what you wrote you already took away the holdback...just an observation, as i said if it works for you, great job....