Factory Amp....Interface

[SnakeH2]

Anyone use something like this?
Amp Interface
http://www.jpcustoms.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=16238&cat=307&page=1

I was wondering if this can be used by the amp in the center console. I found the amp last night, and it appears like all the wires are right there.

Also, Anyone know the color codes? I've been searching for this, but haven't located it yet.

Thanks

[MVR 155]

I am running the PAC Bose interface currently in both my H2 and Z06.... I added a amp and sub to both vehicles. There is no need to get to the factory amplifier, the interface connects to the back of the factory head unit..... its plug and play and very easy to install. check out www.logjamelectronics.com for some great prices on PAC products, I have ordered quite a few things from them.

[SnakeH2]

The reason I was attempting this from the factory amp was because it was so easy to get at. I thought getting to the head unit was more of a project...

[SnakeH2]

Is this it?

http://www.logjamelectronics.com/pacaoemgm24.html

[SnakeH2]

I have a 2005 and I'm finding some conflict as to what I need. It's one of the following...

PAC C2A GM 24

or

PAC AOEM - GM 24

Any thoughts?

[MVR 155]

I went back to my old email to confirm which model I have its the AOEM-GM24
Getting to the factory head unit was also pretty easy to do. I would think that the 2005-2007 trucks all use the same interface (I know that in 2003 there was no navi and in 2004 a different nav unit was used) since they all have the same head units whether it be Nav or no nav.

Not sure if you even thought about this avenue...... going with a line out converter off of the rear speakers. I would strongly suggest not going this route, I initially did this and I was not getting all of the low frequency through my sub so I ended up ordering the interface.

[Tex_h2]

I added an Amp and Sub, by splicing into the rear speakers and adding a Signal Processor. Works great, with more then enough bass from my Kicker.
(http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?search=Adding+a+amp+to+factory&i=136441DSP)

[MVR 155]

I added an Amp and Sub, by splicing into the rear speakers and adding a Signal Processor. Works great, with more then enough bass from my Kicker.
(http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?search=Adding+a+amp+to+factory&i=136441DSP)

The cleansweep is nice but its pricey at $200+

The PAC AOEM interface is under $50 and will net the exact same results in this situation since it gets an unmolested signal from behind the head unit.

[SnakeH2]

Thanks MVR.

My thought was to get the RCAs routed to the mid seats to where I will have an amp. And, I guess I will get power from the fuse box and run it along the doors.

I also looked at the Cleansweep. I guess this would be much easier, but like you said, for the cost, I don't mind a little extra work.

[MVR 155]

I also tapped the box for a 12v switched on for the amp remote, I ran the RCA's under the door sills as well, my amp is mounted on my sub box in the cargo area in the upper drivers side corner. I used the jack bolt for a ground (you could easily use a seat bolt). Works like a champ and the sound quality is simply outstanding. I cant believe how many people have heard my set up and were just shocked that all I have added is 1 12" sub to the factory system.

[SnakeH2]

I agree. I did this on a couple other cars and the improvement...for the money is unbelievable!

[SnakeH2]

I also tapped the box for a 12v switched on for the amp remote, I ran the RCA's under the door sills as well, my amp is mounted on my sub box in the cargo area in the upper drivers side corner. I used the jack bolt for a ground (you could easily use a seat bolt). Works like a champ and the sound quality is simply outstanding. I cant believe how many people have heard my set up and were just shocked that all I have added is 1 12" sub to the factory system.

I just caught that. Sooo, the remote goes to the fuse box...Should I take the power right to the battery?

[MVR 155]

I just caught that. Sooo, the remote goes to the fuse box...Should I take the power right to the battery?

Definately go straight to the battery (there is a grommet in the firewall that I removed and drilled so it fit tightly around the wire), use a heavy gauge wire that is large enough to support the size amp your running as well as a quality in line fuse near the battery.

I believe the PAC interface has a remote lead but unless you have a car with electric antenna I dont think it works (it didnt on my Z06 since it has a stationary antenna like the H2). Hence the reason for going into the fuse box.

[Tex_h2]

I added an Amp and Sub, by splicing into the rear speakers and adding a Signal Processor. Works great, with more then enough bass from my Kicker.
(http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?search=Adding+a+amp+to+factory&i=136441DSP)

Sorry, that link wasn't suppose to be activate.....I only paid 100.00 for the Amp and Signal Processor....

[Tex_h2]

Here's a pic of my Amp and Signal Pro.

[SnakeH2]

MVR, Would the PAC Interface work going into the amp in the center console, or is it just for the head unit. Just wondering, because that would be soooo easy.

[MVR 155]

MVR, Would the PAC Interface work going into the amp in the center console, or is it just for the head unit. Just wondering, because that would be soooo easy.

Its made to attach (basicall installs between the head unit and existing factory harness) to the rear of the head unit. I highly doubt it would work with the harness at the amplifier.

Getting to the head unit is easy, remove the silver Hex screws (I cut the end off of a cheap allen key with a cut off wheel and used my screw gun since the damn things are like 2 feet long). just tilt the bezel backward and loosen the head unit... only need to slide it out slightly to gain access to the rear, plug in the interface and run your rca's down into the lower part of the dash to the kick panel (whichever side you are gonna run your wires down). I secured the interface on top of the head unit in the void between the titty air vents. Bolt it back up and your done. took me all of about 20 minutes to install.

[SnakeH2]

Awesome! So there is no need to be removing the center console then?

[MVR 155]

Not really..... just be careful when tilting back the radio/heat/ac control bezel so you dont break it..... if you working in a cold condition I would let the truck run as to get the inside plastics very warm before you do this..... this will also make the wires easier to play with...... cold temps and electronic installs really dont mix well :D

[SnakeH2]

I got the interface today. Earlier you referenced the remote wire... The interface has two remote wires coming out. One from each end. Do these need to be connected?

[SnakeH2]

Installed it last night. While I was putting the interface in, I really thought it was difficult. Now that I'm done...it was pretty easy.

:dancingbanana:

[MVR 155]

Installed it last night. While I was putting the interface in, I really thought it was difficult. Now that I'm done...it was pretty easy.

:dancingbanana:

Glad you got it installed...... how does it sound?????

Told you it wasnt that bad:beerchug: