Rock Slider Mod! - How to.

[HumminNBoatin']

Hey guys as all you H2 owners know its nice to have factory rock rails. But.... It sure would be nice to have them come off the body a little to not only protect from rocks underneigth the truck but also protect the truck when the trail get a little to tight and you are forced to pivot off of a tree.

A before picture!
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_anKubMs5ALY/Set5U3vYbWI/AAAAAAAACMs/_jw_F6ETY6g/s640/DSCN1312.JPG

So to do this you will need.

-5ft. of 1 1/2" Steel Square tubing with a 1/4" wall.
-29 M12x1.75x80MM Bolts. Make sure these are graded 10.9!!!!!!
(I bought 90MM bolts and they were a bit too long and had to stack washers to get them to work thanks to the idiot that took the order at Fastenal)
-Grade 8 washers.
-Black Rustolium.

Cut your tubing into 2 1/2" lengths and drill a 7/16" hole in the center of the pieces. You will need 20 of these and it will take quiet a bit of time to drill and cut. Clean them up and shoot a couple coats of paint on them. When you get done they should look like this.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_anKubMs5ALY/Set5VlGEpbI/AAAAAAAACM0/R3RjHmSoXEI/s640/DSCN1313.JPG

Then its time to get under the truck. Remove the two bolts from the very front and most rear brackets and tread your new bolts in with nothing on them. Then remove the rest of the bolts from the H2 frame and slide out your rock slider. It should look something like this.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_anKubMs5ALY/Set5Wh73HaI/AAAAAAAACM8/XP5KDju3dQw/s640/DSCN1314.JPG

Now that you have room to work, start by placing your spacers between the rail bracket and the frame in the center. Put a washer on your bolt and thread it in...THREAD THEM ALL IN BUT TO NOT GET TIGHTEN THEM DOWN. YOU WANT ROOM TO BE ABLE TO MOVE THE SLIDER AROUND TO GET ALL THE SPACERS IN!!! Work from the center out. Once you have all spacers in and all bolts started then torque to 35ft lbs. or as tight as you can with a small 3/8" ratchet. (Its a tight area to work in I used a cordless impact with a swivel and extension for most of the bolt turning then torqued them by hand.) Any it should look something like this.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_anKubMs5ALY/Set5XzWpWII/AAAAAAAACNE/nHsyR0PEoWc/s640/DSCN1315.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_anKubMs5ALY/Set5ZFSYsfI/AAAAAAAACNM/f9Uay1lu-ek/s640/DSCN1316.JPG

Once you get out from under you got your finished product!
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_anKubMs5ALY/Set5auGqJnI/AAAAAAAACNU/3AyJrb8dzRk/s640/DSCN1317.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_anKubMs5ALY/Set5b6VONfI/AAAAAAAACNc/iAFaMQ5qKUY/s640/DSCN1318.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_anKubMs5ALY/Set5hb3OFEI/AAAAAAAACOA/MuYXyOPK2J8/s512/DSCN1397.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_anKubMs5ALY/Set5ip6MJ9I/AAAAAAAACOI/urY8fTQ71aw/s512/DSCN1398.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_anKubMs5ALY/Set5kRLyzBI/AAAAAAAACOQ/8SHd6CWJWNw/s640/DSCN1399.JPG

[BACKNBLACK]

Good work and concept:clapping: However I wonder if welding the brackets on the rails would give it that extra stregth it may need when you/if you pivot off the tree???

[HumminNBoatin']

I know what you are saying. Alot of guys with rail buggies do that. We will see how they hold up. The intention of this mod was to be able to use them as a "fail safe" to keep from taking body damage. Not to consistantly go up a trails intentionally knowing I am going to have to pivot off of a tree to make it through.

However---If I do bend them up you will see a post on "How to beef up your rock sliders" lol

[CONRAD II]

I just got back from Grayrock and decided to order these http://www.rocky-road.com/H2rockrail.html from rocky-road.com Some of the H3's are wheeling them and they are supposed to be extremely strong.

[timgco]

check out Drty's sliders he improved/ made.

I like the extra coverage, but I do worry about extra leverage when slaming down on a ledge or rock. Your additional materials will not bend..that's for sure.

[HumminNBoatin']

And this project cost me about $45. A whole lot less than Rocky Road. While I like Drtyfn's rails, that was really alot more work than my project. In the end we get the same protection.

[tomp]

The OEM rails are pleny strong to use for sliding and they will save your body on most hard slams on a rock. More than likely, one hard slam will require them to be replaced.

However, as soon as a little pressure is applied on those rails, you will no longer be able to install/remove those steps anymore. The rails are stout but they will bend upward over time. The tubing used for thise construction is very thin. The brackets will dimple the tubing, where they are welded at, and allow the rails to bend upward.

I took may rails apart and welded in extra gussets and some thick wall .250 DOM pipe and extended the rails outward by 3/4". The 3/4" was all that was needed since I have the flares that have the cut-outs in them for the SE steps.

[Boss Hoss]

I took may rails apart and welded in extra gussets and some thick wall .250 DOM pipe and extended the rails outward by 3/4". The 3/4" was all that was needed since I have the flares that have the cut-outs in them for the SE steps.

Tom are saying with 3/4in extension you are able to take your LE steps off? I put my LE steps on after it has been wheeling a few times and there is no way i can get my steps off without taking off the trim. I was thinking about cutting the trim so they could slip out as an alternative to having to taking off the trm everytime but i like the idea of extending the rock rails.

also, PICTURES PLEASE!

[lvmyhmr]

Great concept! Finished mine today. The holes in the spacer blocks need to be 1/2 inch and the bolts you suggested are just right.

YOu should move your post to the tech section of the Hummer X as well.

[tomp]

Tom are saying with 3/4in extension you are able to take your LE steps off? I put my LE steps on after it has been wheeling a few times and there is no way i can get my steps off without taking off the trim. I was thinking about cutting the trim so they could slip out as an alternative to having to taking off the trm everytime but i like the idea of extending the rock rails.

also, PICTURES PLEASE!

Yup, 3/4" spacers work great if you have the LE flares

[guruerror]

Let's wake this thread up....

HumminNBoatin, if you're still around, I've got two questions for ya: Where did you get your tubing? and what did you use to cut it?

I'm thinking of using a metal cutting blade in a tabletop miter saw...but that's a lot of cuts on some thick steel, so I figured I ask before I run my current saw into the ground on this project.

I've got the drilling covered with a table top drill press...thanks in advance. Anyone else with some input on this, please chime in.

[guruerror]

Is there anyone on the forum with the equipment to whip up some of these spacers?

I'm ready to start negotiating the fee...

EDIT: Nevermind...I just found someone on eBay (industrialmetalsales.com) that's making me 20 for $49.40. Not too bad...and I just ordered my 10.9 bolts and grade 8 washers from Amazon with Reward Points. This mod is turning out to be very affordable.

[[__--MUD--__]]

Looks like an easy and actually cheap mod.

I'm going to be doing some H20 slider/ucp knockoffs when I catch up w/ everything else. But I'm doing that to protect my Amp power steps if I can come up w/ a way to integrate the two.

[guruerror]

Gotter done...we don't need no stinkin' steps

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i271/guruerror/Truck/IMG_0669.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i271/guruerror/Truck/IMG_0672.jpg

[It\'s a Dry Heat]

Hi all,

I'm planning rock sliders as well on my 04. The stock sliders work, but I've tore off my steps before also. I want the rails to be away from the body with a step plate on them.

My shop is coming together.

http://www.enichesoftware.com/media/shop%20layout.jpg

Tools:
32 ton shop press, not tested on 1/2" yet.
Pipe bender will bend 2" x 0.25 wall.
CNC plasma table can cut 1/2" plate.

Material:
Rails - 2" x 0.25 wall round tubing.
Brackets - made from 0.5" steel plate.

Build notes:
1) Setting up plasma table now.

2) Can make steps from 0.5" plate with Hummer cut into the step material, cool.

For cutting those blocks you need a horizontal band saw. You can have them all cut in an hour. Cheap horizontal saws start at $250, here (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearch?storeId=6970&Ntt=horizontal%2Bsaw). Harbor Fright there about $200, with a 20% coupon.

Vern