Key won't turn to start car. Please help!!!

[ave]

When I moved the shifter into park it seemed like it didn't click all the way. I really didn't see it a problem till I got back into the car to start it again. When I put the the key in it took a little force as it wasn't going in. It won't turn. I tried turning the wheel but nothing. I also took the shifter off and press the button in there to move the shifter back and forth buy no success. What can it be? Please help!!!

[Easy Ed]

Some things to look into.....

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38657&highlight=ignition+switch
http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33562&highlight=ignition+switch
http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29911&highlight=ignition+switch
http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31587&highlight=ignition+switch
http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27570&highlight=ignition+switch
http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15106&highlight=ignition+switch
http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16422&highlight=ignition+switch

[ave]

Thanks for the links. All the posts are about the key stuck and it won't come out. My won't turn at all. Anything else I can try.

[Easy Ed]

Most of the links will point to a common problem of a bad switch. Others here may have more suggestions.

Good luck, Ed

[Astroboy]

Since this is emergency, and I don't know if this apply to H2's key cylinder or not... but it may help.

I used to drive a Jeep, and its key cylinder was known to fail after a few years of usage from wearing out, gradually leaving the driver with stuck key that won't always turn to start the engine or be taken out.

The immediate and temporary solution was to USE A BLUNT OBJECT to KNOCK THE KEY INTO THE CYLINDER by tapping a few times.

You don't need much force. Just hold something and tap it few times with your wrist.

In my case, what I used was a beer bottle. I kept an empty beer bottle in my cup holder solely for this purpose for a several months until I had it fixed properly. Now come to think of it, that was not wise and I could have gotten into a big trouble.

[mawinc]

Wow" most of the time it's the steering wheels locked with a little presure from bleed off the power steering pump.You can't just turn the wheel you have to turn the wheel and hold pressure (alot) all the way to the right or left and while holding presure turn the key.Try both ways because it depends on witch way the wheel was left turned.good luck :popcorn:

[ave]

Here is the Latest Update:

I called GM Roadside Assistance to tow my car to the local dealer. When the Tow Truck Driver came out, he said he used to be a locksmith (Not sure if I believe him) and that my tumblers are all out alignment. Which is probably true considering when I put the key in for the 1st time it was hard and I could hear the pins. He told me to call tomorrow and ask GM to send out a Locksmith. He also said he couldn't tow it because it has to be in Neutral. (I know their is an override but I didn't want to argue and 12:00 a.m.) When I called GM to verify this, they couldn't understand why he didn't tow it. She said usually Locksmith's only come out to re-key and not to put in a new cylinder. She said maybe in the morning they can find someone.

I'm confused what do I do?

Thanks.

[OrangeCrush]

Though I didn't click on any of the above links, there's been bunches of cases where the ignition switches need replaced.

It may be in the tumbler but when the whole ignition switch gets replaced, then the cylinder lock is included.

As far as the tow... I'm assuming from his comment he was on a hook and not a rollback.

He did you a favor by not towing it if he was on a hook. Remember, 4WD full time. He would have trashed something towing it on a hook.

And even if he was on a rollback, he still would have had to drag it up the bed.

Of course, being in the bodyshop business, I see wrecker drivers drag shiet ALL THE TIME. :rolleyes:

[ave]

The dealership tells me he thinks I need a new Ignition switch and it will cost around $500. Doesn't that seem expensive considering the part is $35.00 How much labor is involved?

[OrangeCrush]

The dealership tells me he thinks I need a new Ignition switch and it will cost around $500. Doesn't that seem expensive considering the part is $35.00 How much labor is involved?

According to Alldata, this is what it says....


PartOEM PartPriceIgnition Switch Ignition Switch 12450251 $34.99

Replace 1.3 hours

So unless there is something we don't know about, yes, I'd say 500 is too high.


Mark

[ave]

Thanks for the quick response. He now says it will be $600.00. He says it needs a new Lock and a new lock case. He says they have to break the case open where the lock cyclindar sits. He says it is 2-3 hours of labor. I thought the Ignition switch had the case. I feel like he is ripping me off?

[Easy Ed]

Not knowing what year your truck is I did find this post by mdoyle and how he replaced his switch in his truck, 2003 model year I think. The part number is different but that could be the difference from 3/2007 and now.

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25841

Edit: It has also been said to have a locksmith replace the switch versus the dealership.

"Today I finally decided to fix it and thought I'd share the info. The part you need is an "ignition and start switch" part number 15242754 and runs $38.50. You'll also want to ask for a copy of documents:

834551 Steering Wheel Theft Deterrent Lock Replacement
847831 SIR Disabling and Enabling (to prevent air bag deployment)
841952 Ignition and Start Switch Replacement

Start by pulling the negative battery cable to disable the air bag and then remove the bottom steering column cover, it just pulls off it's locking tabs.

The upper cover is retained by one male torx fastener. You can use a 5/16" six sided socket if you don't have the right adaptor. Then the upper cover separates from the column.

Then use a small flat blade screwdriver to press the release on the theft deterrent lock harness connector, then press the plastic latch to easily remove this part. The document shows prying it, but pressing the latch is easier. The same goes for the key alarm connector, there is a tiny release tab you can engage with a small flat screwdriver so it's removal is easy.

The rest of the procedure involves unplugging two more harness connectors and finally the ignition/start switch can be unslid from the housing. One thing not covered in the manual is the position of the key relative the switch housing gear. Make sure you position the new switch in the same position as the old one.

After you install the switch connect everything up and test it before putting the housing back on. If the key sequence is off, release the ignition/start switch and reposition the plastic gear manually.

I did a post-mordem on my old switch and it looks like they are using slightly different components than 2003. I think the problem with mine was wear on the white switch gear that didn't totally take the ignition out of circuit when the key was removed.

It seems to have solved the problem, I won't know for sure until a couple of weeks of driving have gone by since it was an intermittant problem. The whole repair took about 30 minutes. Hopefully this info is useful to others."

[ave]

I just picked up my car $600 later. Can somebody tell me if the parts and labor sound right for my 2006 H2 Hummer.

Thanks.

2 1/2 Labor - $400 (I'm in the wrong Business)

1 Cylinder - $65.77 Part # 15298923

1 Case - $105.77 Part # 88965342

[Easy Ed]

Part # 88965342 $62.69 at Parts Direct and am betting you did not need according to the above mdoyle write up.
Part # 15298923 $34.20 at Parts Direct
Labor at OrangeCrush 1.3 hr stated time and your $160 paid per hour equals $208.00

Equals $304.89 if you even needed the first part 88965342, $242.20 if you didn't.

Sorry, but they were paid too much.