fog lights / firewall

[hummer05]

I am installing a set of fog lights on the front bumper of my h2, I was wondering if someone can tell me the easiest place to run the wire thru for my switch on the inside.

Also would you know what is below the horizontal part of my font middle bumper; is there metal below the plastic so that sheet metal screws could be used to hold the lights.

Thanks

[hummer05]

I am installing a set of fog lights on the front bumper of my h2, I was wondering if someone can tell me the easiest place to run the wire thru for my switch on the inside.

Also would you know what is below the horizontal part of my font middle bumper; is there metal below the plastic so that sheet metal screws could be used to hold the lights.

Thanks

[hummer05]

thanks i will give that a try. I was going to mount then on the horizontal spot on the front bumper below where the brushguard would be, i opted not to put the brush guard on. hopefull it is not so high that it will reflect back.

[VTSTOMPER]

So how did this turn out? I think I am going to be doing the same thing tomorrow. Only I have a Hella 1000 black magic kit that I am mounting on the brush guard.

I assume that your talking about going though the firewall where the factory flex hose goes though the rubber sealed hole. I wish they left a few more holes for us anyway....I mean the chances that we are putting a few lights on an H2 are pretty good I would think.

I am going to put my switch on the back of the dash...so I will have to do a reach around. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif The way Hella wants them hooked up is to only run with the highs.

[hummer05]

well runnning it thru was not to bad, i just got all hoocked up and for some reason with piaa they have the one wire that is for the switch power and I am having problems getting it to work so that i have a constant connection. i am thinking about just running that to the hot on the battery since there already is a fuse on the hot line from piaa.

[Kevin B]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">If you anticipate ever adding more lights, it is a good idea to run the wires through the bulkhead now, so they are ready when you need them. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


Phil, that is some very good advice. Anyone who has ran a wire through that "gromet" know its like trying to push an anchor chain http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif. Thanks.

[SOCRATES]

Maybe someone with more electrical experience can help me as well. I have (4) PIAA 520's,(2) Hella Rallye 4000's, and (2) PIAA 60XT to wire (I already wired the one set of PIAA 525's). The shop I took it to told me that I will have to have the alternator upgraded (about $125.00 they said), and run a seperate battery setup to run all of these lights. Is this correct?

Thanks,
-Justyn

[PARAGON]

I don't know what the amp draw would be for those, but I find it hard to believe that it would be more than a winch and you use the winch a lot of the time at 500-600 RPM.

With the lights on you are usually moving so it would stand to reason that your RPMs would be higher. And so on and so on. I just don't think it is very accurate for them to make such a blanket statement. Sounds like they just want to make a few more coins and it obviously wouldn't hurt to have a bigger alternator and a second battery.

[VTSTOMPER]

Can someone take a pic of where they ran the wires through the firewall. I am doing the project today! http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif I think I found the large rubber peice that all the factory wire goes though, I am just worried about cutting something when I try to gain access through the wall.

[LasVegas]

I assume the "rubber piece" you refer to is by the steering shaft through the firewall with one large harness running through it. This rubber boot is large. You can take a phillips screwdriver and "punch" through it, run your wiring through & then seal up with silicone. Just stay an inch or so away from the existing harness. It's easier if you remove the driver side hood support bracket & fuse box cover.

[Circuitguy]

There is a spot on the fire wall where a clutch cable would go threw. It is sealed off but is marked and makes a great location for any wiring to go threw. You will find it buy looking under the dash at the fire wall to the right of the brake pedal. I have used this location many times and I found it to be the best for any type of wiring incuding lights, amps, ect. Drill a hole, install a gromet and your done! Hope this helps! BIG-C http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

[tower]

Dear Socrates,

You can figure out the total draw yourself. Add up the wattage of each bulb (remember to double it for a pair of bulbs). Divide the total wattage by 12 (nominal voltage) and you will end up with a number roughly representing the additional current draw (in Amps or Amperes) on your battery. Remember that this is in addition to any other draw on your battery at the time (wiper motor, fan, CD, etc.)


e.g.

For a pair of 75w lights and a pair of 100w lights,

(75w x 2) + (100w x 2) = 350 watts total

350w/12v = 29.2A

So your battery is “seeing” an additional draw of about 30 Amps, every time you flip those light switches on.

I hope this helps
t~

[VTSTOMPER]

Well, I never got to it. I was ready to go, but chickened out at the last minute. Since I am working outside, I need to find a warmer day. When you guys popped the rubber piece with your phillips head driver, did you need to fish it down there with something? Or can you see the wire enough to pull it though easy. I also have to go pick up some marine grade sealer today.