Gobi/PIAA install (done)

[rodster]

I've read just about every post on the board re: installing a Gobi rack w/lights and now that there's a stealth in a box in my garage, a couple questions if I may . . .

If I got it right, it looks like everyone mounts the rack, then mounts the lights, then deals with the wiring. My plan is (or was) to set the rack on sawhorses, mount the lights and build/install the wiring harness while it's still on the ground, then mount the whole shebang in one shot. Bad/good idea?

Also, I remember reading somewhere that's it best to enclose the rooftop wires in conduit. True? Anyone know what kind of conduit is best? Is it the black, ribbed flexible tubes with a slit down the side? Or is wrapping the wiring harness with electrician's tape enough?

Any other suggestions for the overall install?

Thanks much for any and all advice!

[rodster]

I've read just about every post on the board re: installing a Gobi rack w/lights and now that there's a stealth in a box in my garage, a couple questions if I may . . .

If I got it right, it looks like everyone mounts the rack, then mounts the lights, then deals with the wiring. My plan is (or was) to set the rack on sawhorses, mount the lights and build/install the wiring harness while it's still on the ground, then mount the whole shebang in one shot. Bad/good idea?

Also, I remember reading somewhere that's it best to enclose the rooftop wires in conduit. True? Anyone know what kind of conduit is best? Is it the black, ribbed flexible tubes with a slit down the side? Or is wrapping the wiring harness with electrician's tape enough?

Any other suggestions for the overall install?

Thanks much for any and all advice!

[LasVegas]

Rod..I see no reason why you can't assemble the whole thing & then mount it on your roof.....as long as you're not buiding a boat that won't fit through the door when you're done. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif On the wiring, I take it the lights are not a kit with a wiring harness & you're making from scratch. I would determine how many conductors reqired & then buy the appropriate weather resistant wire. Get weatherproof disconnect above the roof line. I assume you know the routing...ah yeah didn't I send you a lightbar install? You'll need relays too. Let me know if I can help.

[rodster]

Thanks, Jonahs. You did send the light bar install instructions and that'll be my guide for the interior wire run.

The lights come with some wiring components but I'm not sure which ones since the boxes are still sealed. I do know a full harness is not included so for that I'll model Phil's design found here (http://www.h2southtexas.com/tech/gobi.html).

As for the weather resistant wiring, good tip and thanks. Underground rated Romex okay? http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif Still need to organize those wires so conduit or tape? If it's strictly a matter of looks, I'll likely opt for conduit.

It'll take a few weeks for this to happen (too much work) but after that, you can bet I'll call you with a lawn chair coach request. Thanks for the offer!

[LasVegas]

No no no Rod. You'll never get underground romex through the marker lights and that's way over kill. Best I can tell is you're only talking two conductor wire from the lights down to the cab. Go to anyplace that sells "trailer" accessories. They'll have the wire, disconnect, etc. You don't need conduit or anything else. Or I can give you a website that you can buy all your wiring needs including relays, etc.

[rodster]

OK, so I was just kidding about the Romex. Sorry about that lame attempt at humor.

First things first: will figure out what electrical parts I have to work with then head over to Camper World for the rest.

I'm still wondering if there's a reason not to assemble the unit on the ground. Sure would like to know that now if it's the case.

[LasVegas]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rodster:
OK, so I was just kidding about the Romex. Sorry about that lame attempt at humor. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Okay, now I got you figured out. I'll watch for that in the future. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

[timgco]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rodster:
OK, so I was just kidding about the Romex. Sorry about that lame attempt at humor.

First things first: will figure out what electrical parts I have to work with then head over to Camper World for the rest.

I'm still wondering if there's a reason not to assemble the unit on the ground. Sure would like to know that now if it's the case. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Rodster, Firstr I wanted to say Happy New Rack To You! Secondly, if you have Q's, call Paul at Gobi or PM me. I have done a few racks with Gobi and know some good tricks to the installation and wires.
First pre wire the lights and mount them to the rack while it is all on the ground. Than make your harness and run from the engine bay. You will utilize both marker lights for access but will only need to run through one boot (Dr SD). Just get some some wire loom to cover the 5" of exposed wires. the rest of the wires are inside the rack.

Once mounted up and installed on your roof, the final connections can be made with disconnects in your engine bay or up just outside the marker lights. Make sure to use H2O proof connectors.
Good luck, and post some pics.

I have my Ski rack and bike fork mounts on and am mounting the rear tire mounts some time this week. Should look like the prototype SUT when it's done. Can't wait for Moab now!

[rodster]

Thanks, Tim! That was the assurance I was looking for.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
I have my Ski rack and bike fork mounts on and am mounting the rear tire mounts some time this week. Should look like the prototype SUT when it's done. Can't wait for Moab now! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I bet you know this already . . .

One give-up to having the bed cover is that it covers the tracks on the left and right side of the bed, which would normally fit one of the roof crossbar assemblies. (Or at least that what I read somewhere.) I think that's how the prototype was configured -- one bar on the bed, one far aft on the roof. A bike rack is on my list of upgrades, too, so it'll be good to see how you custom skin that cat.

Thanks again Jonahs and Tim!

Rod

[timgco]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rodster:
Thanks, Tim! That was the assurance I was looking for.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
I have my Ski rack and bike fork mounts on and am mounting the rear tire mounts some time this week. Should look like the prototype SUT when it's done. Can't wait for Moab now! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I bet you know this already . . .

One give-up to having the bed cover is that it covers the tracks on the left and right side of the bed, which would normally fit one of the roof crossbar assemblies. (Or at least that what I read somewhere.) I think that's how the prototype was configured -- one bar on the bed, one far aft on the roof. A bike rack is on my list of upgrades, too, so it'll be good to see how you custom skin that cat.

Thanks again Jonahs and Tim!

Rod </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

custom and H2 go hand in hand. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif

Yakima makes "tracks" that I will be bolting into my cover and than silcone.

Yakima contol towers and landing pads allow the bar to go on.

Should really be easy. I'll post pics soon.

I wasn't willing to give up the cover and loose what lockable storage I had. So this will work great! Hope it looks OK when finished. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_confused.gif

[rodster]

Yakima tracks on the cover . . . great idea! Look forward to seeing the pictures of that.

I hear you on the lockable storage. It's very handy and I'm always surprised how much stuff will fit in that area. Even my wife and daughters couldn't fill it on a three-day road trip and they pack like spoiled royalty.

Another thought: Once the rack is on the roof, how the heck do you load and unload gear from it? Straddle the bed cover and/or stand up through the sunroof? Collapsible ladder, maybe? How did you do it with your old rig before Gobi made the ladder?

[timgco]

Another thought: Once the rack is on the roof, how the heck do you load and unload gear from it? Straddle the bed cover and/or stand up through the sunroof? Collapsible ladder, maybe? How did you do it with your old rig before Gobi made the ladder?[/QUOTE]

The Gobi went on (with Ladder) on the old rig a week or two after I got it. So it was never a problem. I have a chest that all of my MTN Bike gear is in. It has wheeles and I stood on that to put the bikes up there or someone just handed them up to me.

Now I will do the same but will be easier since the bike doesn't have to go all the way up on top. I am 5'7" 168 lbs. I have been standing on the cover with the tail gate closed and staying to the sides and no problems so far. I'd like to find out what the weight limit is for that thing. may have to reinforce that cover with something.

[Dewi2005]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by LasVegas: I assume you know the routing...ah yeah didn't I send you a lightbar install? You'll need relays too. Let me know if I can help. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hello Jonahs,

I must say that I am very impressed at the wealth of knowledge you have when it comes to the electrical side of the H2 (among other areas of knowledge).

I have a Manik rack and am looking to wire lights up to it, but would really appreciate it if you could send me what you have for the wiring instructions (email is great).

Thanks

[tower]

Spot on, Dewi. Jonahs is a treasure. You may also want to talk to H2Rocks. She just did the install on her Manik.

[rodster]

Finally got time to get the rack/lights install done. The job is close to being done but a few more questions, please . . .

Status: Lights are mounted on the rack. Wiring harness is made and installed on the rack, terminating in a short pigtail to a quick disconnect. Firewall grommet wire (and a few extras for future use) are in. Littlefuse Mini Add-a-Circuit installed in the SEO Accy fuse slot. Interior wiring is almost ready to go in.

Questions:

1. Rather than having 2 dash switches for the 4 front lights and 1 switch for the rear, I decided to wire the 4 fronts lights to one switch and the rear to another. The amp draw for the 4 55W lights should be a bit more than 18. The PIAA harness (originally designed for a two-light setup and now modified) comes with a 20A fuse. What size fuse should be used? For future use, is there a standard recommended spread between amp draw and fuse rating?

2. The PIAA documents, web site and relays (PIAA part PL5FB) do not specify the relay capacity. Anyone know if 4 lights on one PIAA relay is okay?

Thanks as always for advice and answers. It's been a lot of years since I've done this sort of thing and I'm having a blast!

[LasVegas]

Rod....If you connected to the SEO Accy in the I/P fuse block (at end of dash) that circuit is only rated for 10 amp I think. Not big enough for what you're doing.

For the rear two lights 10 amps should be enough.

Those relays are probably rated at 40 or 50 amps but I'm guessing. Worst that would happen is they'll burn out.

[rodster]

Thanks, Johahs. Looks like I gave half a description.

The SEO Accy slot will be used for switch power only.

The relays are going directly to the battery and have an in-line 20 amp fuse.

Any suggestion on the in-line fuse size and/or standard recommended spread between draw and fuse rating?

Thanks again!

[LasVegas]

Whew...had me worried there a second Rod. That's fine then.

No rule PerSe that I can think of. Any small margin like 10-15% over rated amps should be fine. The only time you have a problem is on equipment that pull high amperage at start up then you have to have a time delay. Lights aren't that way so no problem.

[LasVegas]

Hey Rod...wanna check out my turbocharged H2 after I install it next week?

[rodster]

Jonahs -- Thanks again for the electrical advice. I'll give it a go with the 20A fuse.

You betcha on the turbo test drive! Name the time and place and I'm there.

[LasVegas]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rodster:
Jonahs -- Thanks again for the electrical advice. I'll give it a go with the 20A fuse.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>You mean 10 amps for the rear, 20 amps for the front, right?

[rodster]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">You mean 10 amps for the rear, 20 amps for the front, right? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Almost. Front and back lights will each have one relay and one in-line fuse. Both fuses are rated at 20 amps.

Or at least that was the plan until you asked the question. Are you suggesting a 10 amp fuse instead of a 20 for the back? Or maybe you were thinking I'd run both front and back through one 20?

Headed back out to the garage. Tonight's project: remove the factory roof bars and prep the roof for the Gobi install tomorrow. Please do call if there's something I should know now.

Thanks!

[LasVegas]

Your 4 front lights are going to pull about 19 amps so a 20 amp inline fuse there. The two back ones will pull at least 9 amps, maybe more depending on the length so 10 amp inline fuse there. All you're protecting is the circuit (wire) so if it's sized for 20 amps you'd be okay but I'd still only go 10 or 15 amps for the rear if it were me. With the voltage drop you might want to go a bit over 10 amps.

[rodster]

Rack and all wiring are installed and working perfectly. Finished things up last night with RTV-silicone in the roof grommet. Ditto on the firewall grommet, which is now unofficially known as the Hummer Hymen. (I swear the truck screamed when I penetrated it with the X-acto.)

The project took quite a bit more time than expected because first I had to find my tools (somewhere between Xmas and Easter boxes), then had to find supply shops in the area with the parts I wanted, then exploring the truck learning where everything is, then finally doing the install. Future projects will definitely go a lot faster now that that's all done.

The rack looks great and is definintely built like a Hummer. Very impressive workmanship, Gobi!

Also installed a locking fuel door and the Framecam at the same time. Framecam required modifying/cutting the rear tire carrier/license plate setup. Looks pretty darned good if I do say so.

Thanks everyone in this thread and others for the help!

[tower]

What nerve!

Rod, you don't really think we'll let you get away with dubbing that thing the Hummer Hymen and not posting pictures, do you?

[rodster]

Tower~

Pictures of the rack and cam are coming. And if you want a picture of the firewall grommet all busted, shiny and sealed, say the word and I'll post it, too, although the whole poke-it-'til-it-splits ordeal still makes me nervous.

Rod

[tower]

Yeah, gotta have the pix.

[rodster]

One Hummer Hymen pix . . .