Electric Fans

[Xenowulf]

I have a 05 SUT and I'd like to install an electric fan. Can you use GM parts from the new 2500s. Or is using the Flex-A-Lite Monster 282 the only way.

I spoke to a Flex-A-Lite rep and he said that GMs only have a few number of different radiators and if the H2 radiator is the same length as a other GM one, the fan shroud should have the same mount points. Is this right?

[Xenowulf]

I have a 05 SUT and I'd like to install an electric fan. Can you use GM parts from the new 2500s. Or is using the Flex-A-Lite Monster 282 the only way.

I spoke to a Flex-A-Lite rep and he said that GMs only have a few number of different radiators and if the H2 radiator is the same length as a other GM one, the fan shroud should have the same mount points. Is this right?

[NU2H2]

I am in the same situation. I used to have the 6.0 Silverado SS with 282's on and it worked perfectly in the TX summer never missed a beat. I used a custom fan controler though not the crappy Flexalite one.
I am thinking the 282's will work fine although the rep told me that the 290 universal fit might be a better option I am not sure yet will do more research.
Jonathan

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Use the fan from the 2500 GM truck and go to Nelsonperformance.com and get the wiring harness that allows You to hook it in to the ecm and program with software to turn off and on. Can get fan at Eadsperformance.com.

You will have to cut the metal tranny lines and use rubber because they will not relocate enough for the fan shroud to work.
Holes to mount do not match and You have to drill holes for the new shroud and use the new shroud holes to mount.
Add rubber washers between the shroud and core support and the shroud and the flat washer between the new bolt head and the shroud.
It all works great and You should be able to find more info on this from Me and maybe another by doing a search in find.

I should mention this was done on My 2005 H2 SUV and assume that it will work on SUT. have not looked at them to confirm myself.

TAZ

[H2 Bill]

This may be a dumb question, but are you guys doing this because of overheating problems?

[Fubar]

Jonathan,
So long as you or whoever installs the fans follows the instructions and mount the fan controller where the instructions say everything will work fine. The Flexlite rep's advice about the 290 in my opinion is fine. Although if as has been pointed out previously you do water crossings you may want to consider the fans from the GM2500 I believe they have a ring that connects the fan blades which would make them more durable when forging water. Make sure to install the cut off switch for the fans in the cabin so that you can switch them off if needed. flexlite also has a fan with a connecting ring, I don't know the model number.

The custom controller you spoke of on a previous install was this something you built or something that is commercially available?

I believe I'm having trouble with my controller or its install location so I'm looking for options. Right now I'm leaning towards simply relocating the controller I have but if a more robust unit is available I would like to have some info about this.

Thanks
http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

[Xenowulf]

It's not the over heating for me. Its just getting that clutch fan out....

[H2 Bill]

Ahhhh! Good point, you can pick up a few extra HP! I just asked because I just started having some overheating problems.
Thanks

[Xenowulf]

I've noticed on my truck (its a 05 SUT with a SC) that I can drive all day and all night in town with traffic and no traffic keeping the truck under 80 MPH on the freeway, my temp is always a cu@t hair under 210(never moves one way or the other), If I get on the freeway and keep it at 90-95 MPH the temp climbs up to 220 and start going up and down from 210 to 220. I don't know or think this is normal but as long as it dos'nt go any higher I don't think it would hurt the motor.



<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Bill:
Ahhhh! Good point, you can pick up a few extra HP! I just asked because I just started having some overheating problems.
Thanks </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[H2 Bill]

That's pretty much what mine does, but it just started that this summer. It's mainly going up grades and I don't have to be under boost with the S/C for it to do it... so I don't think that the S/C is the source. I am thinking of going to a larger radiator that Breathless sells that is supposed to be a direct fit.

that run up toward 225 is normal, from all the techs i've talked to. pulling a 21' camper up over the trinity nat'l forest from redding to the coast gave the temp gauge a workout. even with rpm in mid 4k range for almost a mile in 95 degree heat i never went above 235. passed an H1 pulled over, towing nothing, with his hood up and steam floating out of the engine compartment. even with nothing being towed, mine goes up over 210, then drifts back. i don't worry about it anymore, i just keep an eye on it.

[NU2H2]

Fubar00,
Its commercially available as mentioned by someone else its from Nelson performance and it uses a blank ecu output trigger and the fan turn on is controled by the ecu not that rediculous probe stuck in the coolant stream much better IMHO.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Fubar00:
Jonathan,
So long as you or whoever installs the fans follows the instructions and mount the fan controller where the instructions say everything will work fine. The Flexlite rep's advice about the 290 in my opinion is fine. Although if as has been pointed out previously you do water crossings you may want to consider the fans from the GM2500 I believe they have a ring that connects the fan blades which would make them more durable when forging water. Make sure to install the cut off switch for the fans in the cabin so that you can switch them off if needed. flexlite also has a fan with a connecting ring, I don't know the model number.

The custom controller you spoke of on a previous install was this something you built or something that is commercially available?

I believe I'm having trouble with my controller or its install location so I'm looking for options. Right now I'm leaning towards simply relocating the controller I have but if a more robust unit is available I would like to have some info about this.

Thanks
http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[H2 Bill]

Mine has gotten hot enough that the DIC read "ENGINE COOLANT HOT".

[ARH1956]

My '03 H2 has never had any problem with overheating but the A/C performance when idling around town was lacking. I installed the Flex-A-Lite 282 kit & it's been a "Night & Day" difference. Now the A/C condensor has sufficient air flow even while parked & idling to cool the whole truck perfectly.

[NU2H2]

with E fans or just the OE type set up?

[H2 Bill]

Mine has the OE fan and the Air Conditioner has always frozen you out even on a day like today when it is 113 and climbing!

[Fubar]

Question for those who may know or have an idea.

From my sig line you can see that I have a SC installed the inner cooler for the SC is located behind the front grill and in front of the radiator. The flex-lite series 290 fans are in place of the stock fan.
Coming home today the ambient air temp was 113 and the trucks temp got up to 230-240. I pulled over and the fans were running so I continued home. Even after getting clear of stop and go traffic the trucks temp only dropped to 215 and remained there the rest of the way home, the fans were still running when I got home.
I guess I'm just concerned that the higher engine temps may be causing problems. I don't have any over heating issues when the ambient air temp is 80-100 but when it gets up to 113 and above I seam to be having a warming issue. so long as the fans run the truck is not over heating. I know +5 or 10 degree is probably not causing a problem. 230 and above has got me worried.

So my question, sorry that got a bit long winded. My question: Is there anything short of removing the SC and the inner cooler that I can have the service folks at the dealership try in an effort to get the operating temp of the truck back to its normal of 210? I've already been told that going to a 160-thermostat will not work or will cause problems during the winter months because the truck will never reach a normal operating temp.

My fear is that the inner cooler is blocking a good portion of the air trying to reach the radiator because of the H2's limited front grill area. Will changing to a different type of radiator help? Possibly going larger with the radiator? I don't know if that is possible the one that is there is a pretty tight fit as it is.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

[ARH1956]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Bill:
Mine has the OE fan and the Air Conditioner has always frozen you out even on a day like today when it is 113 and climbing! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Sitting still idling @ 113*+ your A/C freezes you out?

[MUH_HUM]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Xenowulf:
If I get on the freeway and keep it at 90-95
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I was going to ask where the hell you live where you drive 95. Then looked @ your location. LA. Makes sense. I used to drive the 210 thru Pasadena and could NEVER figure out how I could do 85+ in the left hand lane and ALWAYS some bastard needed to pass me. Jesus.

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

I have been running a 160 t-stat for a long time. Got from LPE as at the time they were the only ones that had any last summer. Called Hypertech and they said no not till winter. KenP told Me about LPE. It has been 100 to 105 and no problems with cooling. It stays down around 180 most of the time with supercharger and without SC in winter and in summer. That is what t-stat does is level the temp. In far north i may think about closing off part of radiator for less cooling but, have not talked to anyone that has done it up north. In a stock situation you can have a problem with combustion because of cylinders being more different temp from front to rear but, in forced induction you do not have that problem as much, the cooler eveything is the less chance of detonation which could be the reverse problem in stock if to far north. But, can be handled like a trucker with simple block on radiator to warm it up some. Just ideas to help with different thoughts. Have no problem with winter as the dealer said it would be but, that is what the factory says and I showed them it was Ok as LPE said it would be Ok and now dealer tells anyone go for it and they will even install. T-stat is going to hold the water till it gets hot enough and the supercharger will run some cooler in winter but, normally it is going to run 200 to 230 tops in temp range Magnuson told me. Klaus or HGW may be able to shed more light on that though. KENP runs 160 degree that LPE installed with His total setup. Last I talked to HGW He said go with 160 so these guys are who have given most of the advice on forced induction along with Klaus so I would not worry to much. If You will notice Your rig will have alot more power in the winter with all that cool air coming in even the stock intake. It is even better with cooler temp. I can feel the difference in the Silverado as in the winter with all the after market perf. it will burn the tires more than in the summer and it has run 160 for well since new along with electric fan and perf. upgrades. H2 did the same thing during the winter before SC. I could feel a big difference in the pants with the power and the aftermarket perf. stuff on and no SC. Heat is the enemy of most all mechanical equip. lower it and stuff lasts longer. That is why We have tranny cooler and engine oil cooler up front to get rid of the heat.

Anyone even stock that will put on an OEM electric fan will wonder why Hummer does not do it from factory like the Escalade or I should say they are doing. Escalade kept having cooling problems with AC not working well and the shop fix was told to add the 2500 OEM electric fan and problem solved. i went in to my dealer and told it is normal and I know enough about AC to know it was not. So since i was doing the supercharger later I went ahead and did the fan change and t-stat change and loved it all before SC ever got put on it and that was last summer. Went back into dealer not long ago for something and the service manager noticed the change and mentioned to me that Escalade had to do that to solve AC. I did not say anything. AC was like night and day with the increased flow and radiator appreciated it allot as well since the condenser was running cooler and not dragging it's hot air through the radiator. Many things can be improved with few changes. I was thinking of adding a rear AC system but, I'm spending that money on more bling instead. Fan is a simple adjustment. Do not see much difference in cost. Assembly will take a little longer at factory. Oh well.

Phil I got a huge cresent and a big hammer and off it came with one whack. They are not on but by hand since they run in reverse they stay tight. I even on My Silverado had trouble with My flex-a-lite because of the poor controller setup until they finally redesigned it to work right that i greased MY manual fan so i could almost take it off by hand so I could put it back on when the flex-a-lite gave me trouble. I just had to bump it is all. did not remove electric just stuck mechanical on ran cool till I got home and had no clearance problem. Carried the mechanical under the rear seat for a year before i trusted the flex.

Also before You put money into the flex-a-lite which i run on My 99 Silverado and love it even with the probe stuck in the radiator, check the cost of the OEM from the mentioned website in post above. You will find the fan or it was when i bought mine was half the cost of flex-a-lite. I gave I think $200.00 for it. The harness from Nelson at the time still did not bring it up to just the cost of the flex fan. So You may want to check up on it. Usually like to run OEM if possible where it fits need. Dealer liked the idea of seeing the OEM and said it would not affect My warranty at all it is GM. Has been a while since I went through the cost so it could be different but, worth the look. If it got more popular the cost may have went up but, partsguy may be able to help there.
You off road You, add switch or You will be stranded after fording water. I think with the OEM You would not have a problem but, it is cheap and just good sense to be safe and not push one's luck. Cut it off for the water just remember to turn it on. I do not know how it could be done but, would think someone could put a timer in the system that alerted the driver to turn fan on after so many seconds or may have a minute. Could run a light or a buzzer. Thought it may be a good idea as Ken has mentioned to people to remember to turn it on like it is easy to forget.
Well know I threw a buck shot load of stuff out but, trying to help steer where I have the experience and seen the good and the bad.

TAZ

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Fubar I would recommend 2 things.
go to the 2500 HD fans. They move way more air than the flex do. I have the 295 on My Silverado which is next to the largest they make unless You have the 37" radiator and My OEM electric move so much more air it is no comparison. Both are twin fan same size it is just that the shroud system on the OEM fit so perfect like the mechanical no leaks like My flex and the fans on the OEM are a little farther back from radiator it seems which helps. The next thing is get that 160 degree t-stat from Ligenfelter but, I think Hypertech has them now. In Vegas You have no concern for not running hot enough ever, that i can think of. I have been there in December to watch my Hogs get the butts kicked by UNLV in a supposedly cake walk. But, no one seemed to info Our nuckle heads that they could not stay out till 4 am ever morning and even remember how to play ball. they did not even set a curefew sooner than 1am the night before game. Coach Nutt caught it bad when they got back. The only thing that bothered me was that UNLV whipped them like yard dogs and played hard and earned it. I was settng there proud for them all of Us saying they came and knocked Our big guys on the cans and beat them straight smash mouth with that being Our style of ball at the time, We were so impressed with that quarterback and then fans from the school kids came over to Our small side and started cursing and throwing beer etc. I took in the fact they were kids but, I have been at allot of games where fans are horrible and SEC is the worse sometimes but, I was shocked. Then allot of the older guys came over and sat with us and apologised and showed real class. I go there allot and everyone is always so nice and that just fooled me. the whole time We stayed everyone even out on the street were so nice and even called the Hogs with us it just shocked us. When we went to the Cotton Bowl the next Year and lost 9 to 3 We thought man We are going to hear from OU during as they sit everyone everywhere there and before and after they were so nice and We we equal in fan numbers and We new We did not deserve to be there playing them but, hey it makes money for the program. We shocked Ourselves by playing that close and they congradulated us and said We should have one which We should have and even they said so but, i told them they were to kind that they played down to Our level.

Well sorry just thinking but, I Love Vegas and having been there in the winter cold is not a problem I would think unless you travel where it could be of cousre. I ran around here last winter at 10 to 40 degrees which is more than normal and had no problems. So I would cool it down as something is going to give in your situation. You could add a second oil cooler with fan also which is easy and does not cost much. Go to flex and look on there website they have many extra tranny coolers anything to add extra cool to your rig. You could look into a larger aftercooler but, the radiator i do not think is the answer here. You could have a t-stat sticking that is common on even a brand new rig of any make. I really hope You address this not just the temp for heat sake but for detonation. At those temps You could preignite and blow something out the bottom. It concerns more for that reason as any even at 5 lb boost. Heat is what causes it to happen. At the heat if you can buy higher than 93 octane until you solve it I would even at 5 LB of boost. I'm running 12 and even in summer at 100 here do not get over the 190 to 200 very rarely and only if i have made about 4 to 6 runs at WOT. Just get a t-stat in for summer now and electric fans. Then look at extra cooling but, at least you elimenate the t-stat sticking idea.
Hope it gets better feel free to PM Me if you like or somebody.

TAZ

[Fubar]

Taz,
Thank you for all of your advice. I'll see about ordering the t-stat today on-line or go to a local parts house and see if they carry one.

The air temps here in Vegas do get to below freezing in the winter, hell last winter I had snow in my front yard which I didn't think was possible for Vegas but yet it happened. Anyway what problems if any am I going to have running the truck when the temps get down towards freezing? Do I let the truck idle in the garage with the door open of course until it reaches normal operating temp then head out? Or is it not a big issue until the air temps get down to -20 which it never get to here in Vegas? I understand the dealership has to give a safe answer because they don't know where I am going to be driving. On the on the other hand I don't want to do something to the truck which is going to dictate where I can drive. I mean if I put the 160 t-stat in am I going to have problems driving to say Colorado to go skiing in the winter?

Thanks again to everyone who has given me some advice.

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Fubar I do as You suggested and I let the rig warm a little more than the other rig i drive.
Yet have also just jumped in it and took off being in a hurry not having time to wait. I would idle though if possible.

Fubar I ran last winter down to 10 degrees an many days. We always have a 2 week period in the winter or sometimes 2 or more where it will stay below freezing for weeks but, the nice thing is once it is over We shoot back to 40 which is where it seems to stay allot in the winter here.

If it ended up causing a problem which I do not think it would the t-stat is so easy to change You could do it yourself in 30 minutes to go to a hotter one in winter if You felt it needed it. But, seriously You could really cover part of Your radiator as i would think someone makes a nice looking canvas cover that you can ajust the amount of the radiator that gets air cooling. In fact an upholstery could probably make one with H2 on the front.

I really do not think You would have a problem.
If You did switch it out and take it to the dealer and ask what is going on. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

TAZ

[ARH1956]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ:
Fubar I would recommend 2 things.
go to the 2500 HD fans. They move way more air than the flex do. I have the 295 on My Silverado which is next to the largest they make unless You have the 37" radiator and My OEM electric move so much more air it is no comparison.
TAZ </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The 282 Flex-A-Lite moves 1,000 CFM more than the 295 & is for the H2 or any number of GM's with the 34"x17" radiator. I'm not suggesting it's better than the HD GM fan, simply that it moves far more air than the 295 series.

[Fubar]

I took the H2 back to the dealer today. Was out taking care of a few things and it started to get hot. Ambient air temp today is 107, by the time I drove the 20+ miles to the dealership the trucks temp was about 240. They have a new service manager now and a new master mech so I had the service manager pop the hood. Upon doing so his first comment was how hot it felt. They (the dealership) is going to take a look at it on Monday and then call me with options hopefully.

Taz, I don't need to block any air from getting to the radiator. The inner cooler for the Sc is doing a great job of that. It blocks about 2/3 of the radiator. I menationed that to the service manager today and said that for a noraml H2 installing a 160 t-stat may cause problems but I really think that it would help in my case. He seamed open to the idea but reminded me that simply changing the t-stat is not going to cool the engine. The point at which the fans come on would need to be adjusted as well. I said that should be possible with the flex-lite fans that are there now. He was also open to the idea of installing the fans from the GM 2500 series truck but didn't think it would be necessary.

ARH1956, thanks for the suggestion. I will ask them on Monday if they think it would help to change out the fans for a different model of Flex-lite.

As the ambient temps here cool I think my troubles will go away but it will only be a temp solution that will return again next summer. Hopefully with new people at the dealership someone will come up with a solution that will not cost me 1/2 the price of the truck. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

thanks again guys for all the suggestions.

[Fubar]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ARH1956:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ:
Fubar I would recommend 2 things.
go to the 2500 HD fans. They move way more air than the flex do. I have the 295 on My Silverado which is next to the largest they make unless You have the 37" radiator and My OEM electric move so much more air it is no comparison.
TAZ </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The 282 Flex-A-Lite moves 1,000 CFM more than the 295 & is for the H2 or any number of GM's with the 34"x17" radiator. I'm not suggesting it's better than the HD GM fan, simply that it moves far more air than the 295 series. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


It took some digging (the girl friend had filed stuff away) http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_frown.gifAnway I found the install instructions for the fans that are installed on my H2. They are the Monster Fans 282 series. Just thougt I'd let you know. Thanks again for the suggestion.

[Fubar]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
Fubar, the instrcutions don't address three issues that i cam across; drilling out the top bracket slots to make them bigger, relocating the oil cooler lines and trimming the side brackets. I haven't finished yet, but so far those three things need to be addressed outside of the instructions provided. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Phil,
Sorry to here you are having troubles with the install of your fans. I had the dealership do the fan install when the SC and header were going on they had the truck for a week. I'm certain they had the same issues with the fans as you are experiencing. They install around 10 units a week or so I'm being told so they have probably figured out a way to stream line the install or they've simply tooled up to address the issues. I've read the flexlite instructions and you are correct they don't address any of the issues you have pointed out. I am surprised to here about the oil lines. I had spoken with a flex-lite rep on the phone before deciding to have the dealership do the install with the other stuff being done to the truck and the didn't say anything about relocating or extending oil lines. They made it sound like it was a simple drop in install. Hearing about your troubles only confirms my decision to have someone else do the install I'm not the most mechanically inclined person on the planet.

Keep plugging away you'll get it done.

[ARH1956]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
Fubar, the instrcutions don't address three issues that i cam across; drilling out the top bracket slots to make them bigger, relocating the oil cooler lines and trimming the side brackets. I haven't finished yet, but so far those three things need to be addressed outside of the instructions provided. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I had to drill out the top slots for the bigger bolts, & deal with the trannie cooling lines. I did not have any issues with the side brackets when installing the Flex 282 they dropped right into the factory slots without issue.

[H2 Bill]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ARH1956:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Bill:
Mine has the OE fan and the Air Conditioner has always frozen you out even on a day like today when it is 113 and climbing! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Sitting still idling @ 113*+ your A/C freezes you out? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes indeed it does!

[kdio]

I have been having over heating issues for quite some time. I installed a 180 degree thermostat, aux. transmission cooler, checked the clutch fan to make sure it was working properly. Finally, I called Magna Charger and they offered to reprogram my ECU, and also recommended buying a larger radiator. They said a lot of H2 are having heating issues with the stock radiators. They recommend Ron Davis Radiator, they have a direct replacment for the H2.

http://www.rondavisradiators.com/Welcome.htm

I ordered the radiator, but I will not get it for another week. I will let you know how it works.

[Fubar]

kdio,
Do you know or remember who you spoke with at Magna Charger? As I'm having similar trouble I'd like to have the service manager at the dealership call Magna Charger he's not going to take my word or a 3rd party conversation as motivation to do anything.

Thanks,

[H2 Bill]

kdio, I spoke with Ron Davis radiator and they said that they didn't stock any for the H2 but could make one for it. Apparently they have a good reputation for radiators
I have been looking at the one from Breathless Automotive which is supposed to be a drop in, direct replacement too.
Please keep us posted!!

[kdio]

Fubar00
I talked to their tech department. Sorry, I don't remember any names. I have not updated the program yet because I asked them to update based on 4.56 gear which are being installed in a couple of weeks. I am not sure what other changes they have made to the program, they mentions running a richer fuel curve.

Mine runs hot when I climb hills regardless of the outside air temperature and when the temperature is above 85 degrees.

My friends H2 has similar modification and does not get hot at all, so who knows.

I even did flow test on the stock radiator to see if there was any blockage, but everything check out. I think the new radiator will finally solve my problems.

[ARH1956]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Bill:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ARH1956:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Bill:
Mine has the OE fan and the Air Conditioner has always frozen you out even on a day like today when it is 113 and climbing! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Sitting still idling @ 113*+ your A/C freezes you out? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes indeed it does! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Uh huh. You must be like my 86 year old mother-in-law. She likes it a constant 85* as well. There is no way a stock H2 A/C system would keep me comfortable @ 100*+, LOL.

[H2 Bill]

No, actually it works better than any car we have ever had! I have several friends that have H2's that live here in the desert and there's work extremely well too. Mine is an '03 with build #913. It's 113* now and working great like it always does. My Suburban on the other hand takes a good 15 mins. to cool down in the same weather...go figure. If you are ever in town feel free to come and have a ride.

[H2 Bill]

Hey kdio, have you gotten your radiator yet? Please keep us posted, I am very intersted in seeing what the outcome is.
Thanks!

[H2 Bill]

kdio, did you get yours installed? I put in the radiator from Breathless Performance and it really works well! I have yet to take it up a long mountain grade in the heat of the summer, but maybe this weekend when it's supposed to be 100 here.

[kdio]

H2 Bill, I am picking up my H2 tonight. They installed the 4.56 gears with a front e locker, the Ron Davis Radiator, and a new 180 degree thermostat. I will keep you posted on the results.

[Fubar]

Kdio,
Great to hear you have a dealership that is willing to work with you.
In Northern Ca (I'm guessing) I doubt you guys see many 120 degree days so you'll probalby never expereience any over heating issues but your truck should be all set to tow anything up the side of a mountain.http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by kdio:
H2 Bill, I am picking up my H2 tonight. They installed the 4.56 gears with a front e locker, the Ron Davis Radiator, and a new 180 degree thermostat. I will keep you posted on the results. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[H2 Bill]

kdio, good to hear that you are done! Let me know how it works out. Mine is running cooler with the new radiator (BeCool) and am looking forward to testing it this weekend. It's supposed to be 106 today....

[kdio]

Fubar, My dealership has gone way beyond the call of duty. They are great. I had the radiator and gears installed by a speciality shop at the recomendation of the head mechanic at Hummer.
We don't get into the 120 degrees days but it can get to 110 degrees. I believe my trouble is a lean fuel mixture, which is being corrected by a new program that magnacharger has sent to me. I will let you know how it goes next time I drive up to Lake Tahoe.

[kdio]

H2 Bill, Did you replace the radiator fluid with Dexacool? The shop that installed my radiator calls it Deathcool. There is a large class action suit out on this product and did not recommend that I use it. He used a Prestone product that is non corrosive to aluminum, and recommends that you change the fluid at least every 24 months.

[H2 Bill]

kdio, yes I did. I have never heard of that. What is the product that is recommended then?

[Fubar]

Kdio,
thanks for the info.

How did you get Magna Charger to agree to a new program or custom programming? I have always believed that they simply installed a generic control program and that was only at the time of purchase of one of there units.

At 110 unless you're pulling a trailer you'll probably not have much trouble if any at all with the cooling system on the H2. I had a couple of issues at or arround 110 but only because the fans were not comming on at the correct point or not until the engine was too hot for the fans to cool down. The 2-3 weeks we had temps at or arround 120 I couldn't drive 3 blocks without the truck starting to over heat.

Hopefully your set up will be the answer for you. I'm still waiting for Towbin to do something... Anything...They've had my truck for 8 weeks now.

[kdio]

Fubar,
When I called Magnacharger and talked to their technical department, they offered to reprogram my computer. I gave them the list of all the additional modifications I did to my H2 and they programed it accordingly. I have put about 40,000 miles on my H2 with the supercharger installed, so they thought I might have an outdated programs. When the Magnacharger system first came out, I put it on.

It seems more and more H2 are starting to have over heating issues. When I was on the phone with Ron Davis Radiator, they said they have been receiving a lot of calls from H2 owners with similar problems. Magnacharger recommended that I call Ron Davis Radiator, and my overheating problems would go away.

So far with the new radiator installed the enging temperature is running cooler and the transmission is also running cooler. I am driving up to Lake Tahoe on Wednesday, this will be the test. I will let you know how it goes.

[Fubar]

Very cool,
have a good trip to Tahoe.

I called Ron Davis after getting the same advice from the folks at Magana Charger. The person I spoke with at Ron Davis said they didn't carry a radiator in stock for the H2 but would happily build one. So I took this info the the idiots at Towbin only to be told that going with an aluminum radiator would only get me 5 degrees of additional cooling. My response was "It's a start"...



<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by kdio:
Fubar,
When I called Magnacharger and talked to their technical department, they offered to reprogram my computer. I gave them the list of all the additional modifications I did to my H2 and they programed it accordingly. I have put about 40,000 miles on my H2 with the supercharger installed, so they thought I might have an outdated programs. When the Magnacharger system first came out, I put it on.

It seems more and more H2 are starting to have over heating issues. When I was on the phone with Ron Davis Radiator, they said they have been receiving a lot of calls from H2 owners with similar problems. Magnacharger recommended that I call Ron Davis Radiator, and my overheating problems would go away.

So far with the new radiator installed the enging temperature is running cooler and the transmission is also running cooler. I am driving up to Lake Tahoe on Wednesday, this will be the test. I will let you know how it goes. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[H2_SUT_SC]

kdio - did you have your work done at Hummer of Sac?

[kdio]

H2_SUT_SC,
No they did not do this work. I had S&H 4 wheel drive do the Gear change with a front elocker, and they changed the radiator for me. Hummer of Sacramento would have done the radiator, but Miles (head mechanic) suggested S&H for my gear change and since the truck was there had them do the work.

I have Hummer of Sacramento do pretty much everything on my H2. They have been great to work with.