Tranny cooler installation

[Egan]

Replacement transmission cooler:

If you?ve done any research on the forums you know the stock transmission cooling setup is less than ideal. The transmission fluid flows through the inside of the radiator and an external transmission cooler. Over time, the tubing in the radiator fails and transmission fluid mixes with coolant, and once it finds its way back to the tranny, kiss it goodbye. My plan was like many others: bypass the radiator completely and install a bigger, more efficient external cooler.

I bought my cooler from here. I got the one without the bypass since I live in Kalifornia and don?t have to deal with extreme cold: http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=OPTI&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=COOL&Product_Code=LNG-47391

There is really only one place the cooler can go and it is going to be a tight squeeze.

[Egan]

Step 1: remove the old cooler. I unbolted it and the cut the lines with a tubing cutter. The line that runs to the driver?s side was cut far out on that end to reduce the amount of hose I would need for the new cooler:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/H2/DSC01985.jpg

To make my life easier, I removed the airbox tube between the throttle body and filter. I also removed the passenger side fender liner.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/H2/DSC01981.jpg

[Egan]

Step 2: Break apart the line that runs inside the radiator. I had to use my sawzall because I couldn’t get the tubing cutter to spin due to space restrictions. The circles are for the black tube at the top and the silver tube at the bottom.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/H2/DSC01983-1.jpg

Here’s where I cut the lower one. Just turn it up to keep the fluid from running out:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/H2/DSC01987.jpg

The other end of the cut will run to the cooler. The black tranny line you see runs straight to the driver’s side of the stock cooler and was cut in Step 1:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/H2/DSC01986.jpg

No pictures of the cut at the top, but it should be straight forward. I connected the two radiator cuts together with some of the hose that came with the new cooler. This step is not really necessary, but others had done it and it provides a clean installation.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/H2/DSC01990.jpg

[Egan]

Step 3: Prep the new cooler by installing the NPTxbarb fittings:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/H2/DSC01988.jpg

Next, route the tubing to the new cooler location. The tube on the passenger side came from the lower cut shown in Step 2 and the tube on the driver?s side is connected to the end of the tubing that was cut in Step 1:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/H2/DSC01989.jpg

[Egan]

Step 4: Pop the cooler in place and secure it to the body. I had it pushed all the way over until it hit the mount for the power steering cooler. I used a sheet metal screw on the driver?s side because the cooler bracket fit flush, but I had to use one of the included straps on the passenger side:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/H2/DSC01991.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/H2/DSC01992.jpg

[Egan]

Step 5: Close the hood and realize it won?t close! :lame: The cooler had to slide over towards the driver?s side by ? an inch or so. So I had to ?trim? the ps cooler bracket (thank you Mr. Dremel) to make it work. Fortunately, I didn?t have to redrill the hole on the driver?s side ? the bracket has 3 holes so I just used the one on the left instead of the one in the middle. For the passenger side, I added another hole and tweaked the bracket (it is what was hitting the hood):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/H2/DSC01994.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/H2/DSC01993.jpg

Lastly, run the engine (after putting the airbox back together) and check for leaks.

[pdxrealtor]

Nice wright up...

Dude I warned in one of the recent threads the very issue you had. The hood not closing due to tight fit. Luckily I caught mine before things were bolted down. Sorry you didn't see it :(

For the power steering I just relocated the bottom mount (swung bottom towards driver side) and used a nut and bolt that came with the Trans cooler to secure it.

[Egan]

Nice wright up...

Dude I warned in one of the recent threads the very issue you had. The hood not closing due to tight fit. Luckily I caught mine before things were bolted down. Sorry you didn't see it :(

For the power steering I just relocated the bottom mount (swung bottom towards driver side) and used a nut and bolt that came with the Trans cooler to secure it.

I saw your post, but everything looked like it lined up perfectly. It wasn't off much so it was no big deal to fix. You can see where the hood was hitting if you look to the lower right of the last picture. Just above the bolt you'll see two small parallel scratches. It was really modifying the bracket that fixed it more than sliding the whole cooler towards the driver's side.

[timmy1909]

I just ordered a Trans cooler from Flex-o-lite (4120) Overall dimensions of 7 1/2" x 20" x 3/4". It appears to be very close to the same dimensions as the Unit you are all using but it cost me $53 shipped from summit. Not as thick not as wide and not as tall... but I don't tow anything with my H2... I just dont want to have coolant mix with the trans fluid... I will install it this weekend and let you know if it works. I have noted my currant trans temps and will see if there is any difference.

New to the Forum by the way... just bought my 03 H2 this week... So far I love it!!! have been trolling around here to get some Ideas and came across the stock trans cooler issue. I work at a GM dealership and the Techs there never heard of that issue... but they are going to pass it along to their H2 customers.

[LoJac963]

^that's a good point, anything aftermarket I'm sure will work better than the tiny radiator integrated cooler. IMO it would be much much easier to buy a little smaller of a cooler and not worry about moving brackets, drilling holes, hood clearance etc.

[SummitUp]

If you?ve done any research on the forums you know the stock transmission cooling setup is less than ideal. The transmission fluid flows through the inside of the radiator and an external transmission cooler.
Egan, what year is your H2? My '05 didn't ship from the factory with an external tranny cooler.

Also when I installed my cooler I removed the tranny lines from the radiator (you just remove a retaining clip and they come right out) instead of cutting them. I then plugged the holes in the radiator with brass plugs instead of joining the upper and lower cut connections with a hose. Even neater still.

[Egan]

Egan, what year is your H2? My '05 didn't ship from the factory with an external tranny cooler.

Also when I installed my cooler I removed the tranny lines from the radiator (you just remove a retaining clip and they come right out) instead of cutting them. I then plugged the holes in the radiator with brass plugs instead of joining the upper and lower cut connections with a hose. Even neater still.

2005

[timmy1909]

I got my Flex-O-lite 4120 Trans cooler installed today... Very easy to do but I must stress how important it is to Flare the lines that are going to the trans cooler. it is very easy to do and the Flare tool is only $10 at your local autozone. Also when you run your lines make sure that any line (rubber or metal) that touches anything metal... make sure that you cover it with something. I just cut open some 3/8 rubber line and put it over the line that comes in contact and chaffe against anything.

Trans temps after an hour of driving in city and highway are below what they were since I got the H2. This cooler is rated for 20,000 lbs GVRW the H2 weighs in at 8000 lbs give or take so that means with this cooler you could tow an additional 12k I do not plan on doing that so I think I am set. I will however get the bypass because here in Wisconsin we get some cold temps.

Here are the completed pics of the FAL 4120 that I got for $53 shipped from summit and comes with everything needed for the install. Minus the tube cutter and Flaring tool.

http://i45.tinypic.com/2uyhv94.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/2u7lfs5.jpg

[LoJac963]

looks good, nice work. I was waiting to see someone use the zips that go through the radator/condenser to secure the ext cooler.

[chris4851]

I will be installing a tranny cooler soon. I had a couple questions before I placed the order. I live in Massachusetts, would you recommend the bypass? What exactly is the benifit of the bypass? Even if you live in a vey cold climate is there a downside not having the bypass?

I was looking into purchasing the Flex-a-lite 4120, how has this cooler been working out?

[SummitUp]

I will be installing a tranny cooler soon. I had a couple questions before I placed the order. I live in Massachusetts, would you recommend the bypass? What exactly is the benifit of the bypass? Even if you live in a vey cold climate is there a downside not having the bypass?

I was looking into purchasing the Flex-a-lite 4120, how has this cooler been working out?
I can't speak for the the Flex-a-lite 4120 as I purchased the Tru-Cool Max (http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=4739&Category_Code=trucool-MAX-cooler&Product_Count=0) cooler. I live at 9000ft. elevation in the Colorado Rockies (yeah, it gets real cold here on occasion!), so I ordered my cooler with the bypass option. The bypass is supposed to work in the same way the coolant thermostat in your engine works, i.e. it wont open to allow free flow of tranny fluid until the tranny has reached operating temperature.

However... I had nothing but problems with the bypass on my cooler. Tranny usually ran way too hot, so much so I thought the bypass unit was defective so I ordered a replacement. The replacement bypass unit wasn't any different and the tranny temps were still way too high even in cold weather so I re-plumbed my cooler without the bypass and never looked back.

Yes on really cold days it takes much longer for the tranny to "warm up" but in my case I never take my H2 on short trips so it doesn't really matter to me. What does matter to me is I wheel my "Deuce" hard on trails in Moab often in hot weather conditions so I need maximum flow of tranny fluid through the cooler and that isn't going to happen with the restriction the bypass unit places in the circuit.

Just my $.02

[chris4851]

I pulled the car in the garage this weekend to have a look at the bypass procedure before I purchased everything. I have a 2005 H2 and noticed that I already have a stock external tranny cooler. Is there any reason not to just bypass the radiator and still use the stock tranny cooler?

[Egan]

Not possible. H2's never had factory installed external transmission coolers. If you do have an external tranny cooler than it was installed as an after market add on by the previous owner. Is it possible your thinking the power steering cooler is a tranny cooler?

It would be great if you would post a pic of this "stock external tranny cooler".

It's that thing in Step 1 above (post #2).

[chris4851]

It's that thing in Step 1 above (post #2).

Correct. What is the cooler in Step 1 above, which is attached to the two vertical brackets? I believe the power steering cooler is to the right of this cooler. Also behind this cooler is another cooler then the radiator. What are they all for?

[Egan]

Correct. What is the cooler in Step 1 above, which is attached to the two vertical brackets? I believe the power steering cooler is to the right of this cooler. Also behind this cooler is another cooler then the radiator. What are they all for?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Egan70/coolers.jpg

[SummitUp]

Well done Egan, and I stand corrected, there definitely was/is an OEM external tranny cooler:

http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj360/Colorado_Breeze/H2%20Tech/H2OEMTransmissionCoolerSchematic_zps452f4772.jpg

[Egan]

Well done Egan, and I stand corrected, there definitely was/is an OEM external tranny cooler:



It's a wonder any air gets to the radiator.

[LoJac963]

so why has no one just bypassed the in radiator portion and just used the OEM tranny cooler? Is it not efficient enough on its own without the radiator portion??

[chris4851]

Thanks for all the help. I am at a standstill right now. I was thinking of the aftermarket transmission cooler. Now it looks like it may be possible to utilize the stock transmission cooler and just bypass the radiator all together. This seems like the simplest solution to fix any potential fluid mixing issue. Does the radiator add any additional cooling for the transmission fluid which would pose a problem if bypassing with the stock cooler? As Lojac mentioned is this less efficient which would require a larger aftermarker cooler?

On a side note I do not take my H2 off road and very rarely, if ever, tow anything significant for long periods of time. I really just want to fix a potential issue with fluid mixture so I know my transmission is safe in the long run.

[SummitUp]

I've been on this and all the other Hummer forums for several years now and I've never read a post or a thread where anyone has bypassed the radiator portion of the tranny cooling circuit while keeping the stock cooler. I myself would not feel comfortable doing it, just looking at the stock cooler it looks pretty small.

You could always go ahead and do this and become the first "beta tester"! :D

[chris4851]

Normally I would jump at the shot to give this a try. However I was trying to get this all done before I head on a road trip. Don't really want to beta test anything being a thousand miles away from home.

[iwillnc]

Off topic but...

To the guy whose H2 is in the picture a commong problem with early H2's was the hood straps rotting out because of the factory "sleeve" over the wire, which was corrected but cutting the sleeves off so that the metal cables could dry properly.



And I'm very intrigued on using the stock cooler, my 03 is still under warranty and I don't want a reason for them to deny fixes so I'm waiting til it is almost up, which it is now getting to the point that it is almost up...

[chris4851]

I spoke with a local transmission shop about the issue I am having utilizing the stock cooler and bypassing the radiator. For what it's worth he mentioned the radiator is typically used to regulate the coolant temperature before it returns to the transmission.

[iwillnc]

That would tell me that the factory cooler is more than likely sufficient as is.

[LoJac963]

I would imagine so especially if you rarely offroad or tow anything. I've been meaning to add an aftermarket cooler but I think I'll bypass the in radiator and see how the temps run.

The real test will be this summer here in AZ but again I don't forsee any issues using just the external.

I'll try and take pics when I start this project if no one beats me to it.

[Hellz]

so i am looking to add an external cooler to my 2003 H2.

here is a pic of my front end. it looks identical to the pic of the 2005 H2 with a external cooler ( OEM)

do we know for a fact this is an external Tranny cooler?

im not worried about bypassing the radiator and going to this cooler, as i am more concerned that if this is indeed for the tranny, i want to pull it out completely and install a bigger cooler right where it is located at and using the brackets in place to mount to.
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn293/detherow_photo/IMG_0265_zps39f4109c.jpg

[Ice]

I am considering doing this also. Would I see any benefits by just replacing the stock cooler with a larger one and not bypass the transmission or do you get better cooling by bypassing the the radiator?

[Egan]

I am considering doing this also. Would I see any benefits by just replacing the stock cooler with a larger one and not bypass the transmission or do you get better cooling by bypassing the the radiator?

The whole point of this is to bypass the radiator to eliminate the chance of coolant mixing with tranny fluid and destroying your transmission. The external cooler is an added benefit for better cooling.

[Ice]

Thank you! Now I understand.

[Hellz]

so what level do you guys keep your tranny fluid at now with the cooler?

i had my cooler installed now for about 2 weeks, and this baby keeps the fluid cold.. well under 100 degrees.

so if the fluid is kept cold, it never expands.

right now, i have it just above the cold line.. like 1/4 a quart above.

im also chasing a leak somewhere in it, but can locate it due to the fluid slopping around for a little bit. so i power washed the whole area, and wiped down the lines in hopes i can track it. since i didnt cap off the internal rad lines, im guessing that excess leaked out, but i did have to add fluid.. so who knows.

but i am curious at what levels you guys run it at.

thanks

[SummitUp]

I just keep mine at the "full when hot mark" when the truck is running at it's at it's hottest (about 140? - 150? for me).

[iwillnc]

As I quickly approach the need I do this myself, I've been thinking; obviously what's there is flawed and must be fixed, however I looked into why it went the way it did, while in sure many have long since figured it out, I just felt reason to state what I found
The factory unit allows the teams to heat up faster when cold, it's just as important for the transmission to be heated to a level as it is to cool it.
The factory unit also cools by use of liquid which inheritaly (sp) cools better than air

So by using just the stock external you lose the heating properties and a certain amount of cooling

Regardless of this, the system must be altered

[Hellz]

As I quickly approach the need I do this myself, I've been thinking; obviously what's there is flawed and must be fixed, however I looked into why it went the way it did, while in sure many have long since figured it out, I just felt reason to state what I found
The factory unit allows the teams to heat up faster when cold, it's just as important for the transmission to be heated to a level as it is to cool it.
The factory unit also cools by use of liquid which inheritaly (sp) cools better than air

So by using just the stock external you lose the heating properties and a certain amount of cooling

Regardless of this, the system must be altered


im not sure that it is important for the tranny be heated to a certian level for operation. now if we are talking well below zero degrees, thats another issue.

i live in Minnesota, it is freezing or below freezing nearly half the year here. hell, we are expecting 8 inches of snow by tomorrow.. APRIL 11th !!!!
my tranny works and had always worked without issues when it is cold.

with my cooler installed.. i have seen the temp go up to about 120 degrees, but that is the max. 90% of the time though the needle doesnt move. it just sits right at the 100 degree mark.

by natural friction, the fluid/tranny will heat itself up to its rated viscosity. any additional heat besides that, that is the heat that needs to go.

[iwillnc]

Anyone tried stock yet?

[iwillnc]

120 just seems way too cold for the transmission

[iwillnc]

How much fluid did you guys have to add to the system?

[iwillnc]

For goodness sakes, I'll be the beta tester then, I have the tru-cool in the backseat, but being worried about the A/C condensor flow, and the fact I feel 120 is waaay to low, I'm going to try using the factory cooler

As is my tranny never goes above 180, And I would be very happy at that temp as 175 is considered optimal tranny temp from what I see.

I don't want to regret spending $150 on a radiator, but I would be very happy if this worked.
But seriously the stock cooler is not THAT small.


Also if you never get it up to temperature it won't be able to get rid of the moisture in the transmission fluid, as well as it won't allow the TC to lock up as it's suppose to.

[LoJac963]

valid points, I think as I mentioned before (pretty sure) just bypassing the radiator and using the stock external cooler should suffice. I need to do that myself because all the bad stores of antifreeze and tranny fluid mixing scares me lol

[jsbihn]

Have any of those who have just used the stock external cooler to bypass the "mix" have anything to report back on this?
How are the temps?
Is the cooler shown in the 2 page of this thread by Hellz actually the tranny cooler for the 03 also?

I am looking to do this and right now I want to just make sure I avoid the "mix"

I figure afterwards if I need more cooling or something, I can replace it but for now I want to make sure it is taken out of the loop.

[jsbihn]

anyone do the bypass just using the stock cooler? and is the cooler that Hellz has pictured the tranny cooler?
Like he said, I would hate to bypass it and it turn out to be something else.

[Hellz]

thats whats it says when im driving.
thats if it even warms up to that.. most of the time it is just barely above the 100 mark

[jsbihn]

Hellz, are you saying
yes the picture you showed in the previous page is the stock tranny cooler
and
yes you did the bypass while using the stock tranny cooler and all is well

I want to make sure I am positive on this before I start cutting lines

[Hellz]

rip that crap out!

just follow the 2 lines from that OEM cooler back to the radiator, and cut them.
pull the OEM cooler out and install the new one.
cap the lines going into the radiator as it will save cleanup time later down the line for you.

it is fairly easy and simple

[jsbihn]

Hellz,
I understand that.
BUT when I can get the new cooler and when I can put it in are the issue right now.

This is why I am asking if anyone did what was talking about.
Using the OEM cooler (if thats what that is shown in your picture page 2 of this post) to still cool the trans.

I know it isnt a great fix for it, but it is something I can do now so that when I am on the road back and forth to work, I dont have to worry about my tranny going kaboom until the aftermarket cooler comes in.

I mean my way of thinking is... what if I ordered the cooler today and it doesnt come in til next week... what good does it do me if today or tomorrow my tranny is grenaded by the "mix".
So I am trying to bandaid it until I can get it fixed right.

If that cooler in your picture is the tranny cooler, please let me know and if it worked (and "worked" meaning... the temps didnt get too hot after the bypass and it still had coolant flow)

thanks

[iwillnc]

Although I'm in this same dumb boat "**** aint happened in the last 10 years of its life but now that I'm concerned about it, it will definitely happen anytime in the next hour drive" state-of-mind as you are, I'm fairly certain that stock cooler is more than efficient unless you do Moab every week.

The part that goes into the radiator is kinda like a thermostat, in the winter it helps warm up the fluid before it enters the trans. In all honesty I can't see how you wouldn't be fine with just the stock minus coolant radiator bypass.

I have the exact radiator kit as the author sitting in my garage, but the more I think about it the worse it sounds to install.

Proper transmission temps are between 160-190.
This is also the temp the computer expects the transmission to run at, else it will keep cycling the transmission as if it is cold to protect it.

[iwillnc]

I keep making plans to do it, but I'm going to try to get it today or perhaps tomorrow depending on what I'm doing.

[Hellz]

ya i suppose you could go pick up some tranny hose from teh auto store and bypass the radiator witht eh stock cooler... i cant say how it will perform for you though, but yes, it will prevent the coolant mix.. but at the same time it might raise your temps enough that it cooks your tranny too....

i just dont have an answer for you on that... but by passing it.. yes you can do it.

check with your autoparts store, they may have one thats in stock, or that will fit. reeally, all that matters is if it will fit in the frame.. it doesnt matter the brand or anything. hell, even the fittings dont matter as you will connect it with rubber hose and clamps.. so you can also do a adapter if need be.

i got mine in less than a week when i ordered it.
took me about 2 hours, and i had minimal tools as i was in Reno for a Military school... thats how limited it was. i used vice grips to cut the lines..

in a home enviroment with tools...i would say about an hour give or take

[iwillnc]

Update, I've done the loop to stock cooler avg temp is 178 so far has got up to 185.

Outdoor temperature is about 80 F

At the moment I can't say whether this is a success or failure, although its leaning toward a failure, I'll know for sure when the outdoor temps hit 95+
I'd like some wiggle room on the temp, I'm sure the stock would be fine if your max temp was 70, but I'm not sold on it as is.

If at any point the temp hits 200 then I will be putting on my aftermarket cooler.

Driving varies between in town to country roads

If my max temp when outdoor temp gets to 90+, never goes above 190 then ill be adding a deeper pan, I haven't been offroad yet but I'm sure it would get hot

Quite honestly I never paid much attention to the trans before other than periodically checking it wasn't above 200, so if these numbers are normal, I can't say.

[ryaleon]

If at any point the temp hits 200 then I will be putting on my aftermarket cooler.

Be ready to change it. I did the loop with stock cooler and yeah temps will reach much higher than 200. Especially on the highway. I then installed a slightly larger than stock cooler. It was a flexolite. Don't remember the model. It kept temps generally in the 200-215 range. Still too warm for me. Put the trucool and now its fine. 150-155 degrees.

[iwillnc]

Well dern ryaleon, I was hoping someone with experience would have spoken up BEFORE I looped it.:lame:

I still don't know how I got the cuts on my hands, but I have plenty of blood in my engine compartment from today.

Don't look forward to going at it again, but w/e

[ryaleon]

Sorry about that bud didn't see your plea for help. Oh well we live and learn. I did it 3 times as I said. Gave me lots of cuts! Come to think of it the Hummer has given me tons of cuts.

[iwillnc]

Is your A/C any worse off from having less flow?

[Hellz]

Update, I've done the loop to stock cooler avg temp is 178 so far has got up to 185.

Outdoor temperature is about 80 F

At the moment I can't say whether this is a success or failure, although its leaning toward a failure, I'll know for sure when the outdoor temps hit 95+
I'd like some wiggle room on the temp, I'm sure the stock would be fine if your max temp was 70, but I'm not sold on it as is.

If at any point the temp hits 200 then I will be putting on my aftermarket cooler.

Driving varies between in town to country roads

If my max temp when outdoor temp gets to 90+, never goes above 190 then ill be adding a deeper pan, I haven't been offroad yet but I'm sure it would get hot

Quite honestly I never paid much attention to the trans before other than periodically checking it wasn't above 200, so if these numbers are normal, I can't say.

so if you have a aftermarket cooler.. why **** around with the OEM one?
i spent $5k for a new tranny.... granted i could have gotten a cheaper one.. but still.. if you want to possibly fry it.. knock yourself out.

[ryaleon]

Is your A/C any worse off from having less flow?
Ac is fine. Everything is fine. No issues with the trucool.

[iwillnc]

Hell, your missing my point, I don't live where min yearly temps are 60, it can get around 18 here( which is in fact cold here)
A transmission that's too cold is not good for wear or dare I even say, efficiency.
Your missing this.

Also you can pickup a brand new tranny for 2600 + 100 jack, hope you got a lot of mods.



But yes the trucool will be goin on next

[Hellz]

i live in Minnesota.. so your temps are actually warm for me :)

im not missing the point. if you are worried that you are over-cooling your tranny, get a winter bypass for it tha will warm up the fluid before it opens it up to the cooler.

yes that $5k was including some extra work on the H2.
the actual tranny cost was $3600 for a stage 2 kit (500HP), but thats not including install.

[SummitUp]

This is also the temp the computer expects the transmission to run at, else it will keep cycling the transmission as if it is cold to protect it.
Care to elaborate on that statement?

What do you mean by the computer "cycling the transmission"?

[iwillnc]

Not allowing TC to lock/unlock correctly as well as keeping rpms higher to try and warm th transmission, notice how your Rpms get lower after the tranny has warmed up, while doing normal driving

Probably missed something

[Hellz]

so here is the thing...

the viscosity of the fluid is going to warm up to whatever it is going to warm up at splashing around in the tranny and cycling through it.

Is that 60 degrees? 70, 80 or 90 degrees? not sure.

your cooler is going to cool at most to the ambient air temp outside.
there is no way it can go lower than that unless you have something else that is actively cooling.. I.E refrigerant type..

so the magical numbers are..
what is the oprating range the tranny needs ?
and ambient temps outside.


at most, the pump is the only thing that should really be affected by cooler fluid as it has to work a little bit harder.. but honestly, it will have minimum inpact

[jsbihn]

I am just curious how people are getting such accurate readings for their tranny temps?

[LoJac963]

After some long driving the last couple days I've been keeping an eye on my temps for comparison.

One day the temp here was 95 outside the other 97 degrees. As you know AZ is pretty much no humidity unless its actively raining lol.

My coolant temp sits right around 190 and the tranny temp sits right around the same temp.

So here's the question since there is so much debate over using just the stock cooler and bypassing the radiator.

Is the tranny temp close the to coolant temp BECAUSE of the coolant being 190 degrees? One could argue both sides...

-the tranny temp is 190 because the coolant is and bypassing the radiator will allow the tranny to run a little cooler.

-OR does the tranny run hotter than 190 and the coolant is actually taking away heat as opposed to adding it?

[iwillnc]

Alright so my cooler is being installed, I'm going to try to finish tomorrow.

I'm installing mine slightly different, for one I kept looking at these pictures thinking WTF with how the driver side was connected, I was thinking Egan had used the original hole for the old cooler, finally I read he used a sheet metal screw, Doh.


Anyways, my cooler makes slight contact with my condensor if installed like in the pictures, the bottom of the cooler is too close .
What I did is bend the bottom supports, out at about 170 degrees, so instead of being behind the lower support, they can move further out over it allowing some room between the condensor.

Now I have to find some rubber isolators for the lower connection.

[iwillnc]

Alright, so how I installed mine, I straitened out the lower attach points, I then put a rubber grommet I cut between the bracket and the lower attach point, where I attached both bottom brackets, using a tek screw.

On the top I only attached the driver side, using just a tek screw.
I bent the passenger top toward the vehicle but haven't decided if I'm going to attach.

I honestly don't see how everyone is installing this cooler without it rubbing the condenser, by using just the top brackets.

I notice no difference in a/c
Driving medium hard through country roads for 12 miles I managed to get it up to 148 degrees (F) outside temp 89

[jsbihn]

iwillnc
pictures if you can
I was actually just outside measuring my space to see if I can use another cooler that might fit better (where I can bolt top and bottom).
It might not have the cooling capacity, but then again if I am not always towing or off roading I would think it wouldnt be that bad.

Also, did we ever establish that just bypassing the oem first cooler, and using the second oem cooler on the front would work for as a temp solution?
Or did normal driving cause temps to really go up with that single cooler up front being used?

[jsbihn]

Hey all,
I just thought I would update this thread....
I do not work for Amazon OR Oregon Performance, and I am only doing this to help spread some information for those on the search.

I have been looking to do this mod for some time now and though money has always been short to throw into things other then repairs, I was finally able to do so. Of course money is still short, so I looked for the cheapest price to purchase for. It turns out that if you go to the previously mentioned website Oregon Performance (as linked by Egan), you will get a price of roughly 175 shipped. If you go to Amazon and look up the part or click on this link

http://www.amazon.com/Tru-Cool-LPD47391-Pressure-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B0060NKA1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393787843&sr=8-1&keywords=tru+cool+4739+max

You will find it has them for sale, and off to the right side it will say "more buying choices". If you look, it will have Oregon Performance as a seller and the price is actually 40 dollars less ($133.95 with free shipping).
Best deal I have been able to find is this or similar to it.

Now dont get me wrong, I am all for the little guy making money and such, but if the same shop sells it on their site for 175 and then on amazon for 135... I would rather pay them the 135.

Anyways... Hope this helps someone too.

[LoJac963]

Hell I'm with you on that, I'll always support the companies themselves but if I can find a deal you bet I'm paying the lesser amount!

I've been meaning to do this for some time, added to my amazon cart!

[jsbihn]

Glad I could help with with some savings.

(and yeah I have been meaning to do it for some time too and figured I better do it now before I have issues and before I do my tranny overhaul (corvette servo, trans flush, new filter, possible performance kit, etc etc...))

[Egan]

Weird - I paid $139 direct from Oregon Performance.

[LoJac963]

My tranny has always had a slow leak from a little access port on the bottom of the bellhousing. I'm a complete retard when it comes to transmissions so I couldn't even begin to guess what it could be. I just keep topping it off as I'm scrrd to take it in and see how much money it's going to cost.