Dead Battery

[JamesT]

Know this has been addressed but could'nt find it. Went to start the ol girl and it acted like battery was dead. Nothing cam on...no lights no battery, Tried to start it several more times then on try #4, it started. Goind to dealership soon but any heads up on what this is?

[JamesT]

Know this has been addressed but could'nt find it. Went to start the ol girl and it acted like battery was dead. Nothing cam on...no lights no battery, Tried to start it several more times then on try #4, it started. Goind to dealership soon but any heads up on what this is?

[KenP]

Something smells fishy here. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

[Klaus]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by KenP:
Something smells fishy here. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

[JamesT]

Yes...Craig said something to do with ignition sensors? We'll see.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by sfox:
Do you still have the stock battery?

S </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[partsguy]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JamesT:
Yes...Craig said something to do with ignition sensors? We'll see.<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> Ingntion switch?
almost a safe guess.Gremlins live in those switchs!

[QUOTE]Originally posted by sfox:
Do you still have the stock battery?

S </div></BLOCKQUOTE> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[JamesT]

Update...Leaking battery. Of course dealer says a battery...even though its leaking!!!!...isnt covered under the extended warraty I spent 2K on. We'll just see about that. I had them put a new one in anyway. I've got a few letters to write. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gifhttp://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gifhttp://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif

[tower]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by sfox:
I think it may be time to upgrade to an Optima Yellow Top!
S </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Amen!

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Something I found out as My batt kept going dead. Dealer said they have been having trouble with front pass seat control sticking after moved. They put knew control in and no more trouble. Different than present problem but, thought some may need this little bit of info.
TAZ

[tower]

Well, I suppose the obvious is worth mentioning. If you have dealer installed accessories (e.g. roof lights, grilleguard lights) or a back-up camera, this is one possible issue. To go to "instant on" when you go into re3verse, the back-up camera has a low draw when the truck is off. The dealers have been mostly hooking their lights up to direct power (via relay, of course) and bypassing the IGN switched hot circuit. This means if you shut off your engine and lock your car, your lights will stay on until you shut off the switch. Mine are rewired to the IGN lead, so if the truck is off, so are the fog lights.

As I said, probably not your issue, but worth noting.

You can trace current, starting from the positive battery lead using a field ammeter. You don’t need to cut wires or even make electrical contact with the wiring. This meter measures the electromagnetic fields that always accompany current flow. If all else fails, a good auto electrical shop can trace the problem this way, if it is a current draw issue.

[4churchill]

Im thinking of going witht he yellow top too....does anyone have pics of how it sits in the battery spot? is it a very tight fit?

[tower]

If you are using a dual battery set-up, it's a bit tricky and there are about 3 ways to do it. With one single optima yellow top, it's a no brainer.

[PARAGON]

What are the 3 ways? There is the Wrangler setup that Drty has, but that uses smaller capacity batteries (plus I can't use the yellow optima I already have). I have contacted a few dual optima tray manufacturers to see if I can get one custom made to fit but never got anywhere. There was one that might would fit but I never heard back from them.

I am not fond of running a 4 gauge cable the length of the truck to put a battery in the back. Too many opportunities for a short while off-road.

Also, there is little to no room under the hood. Ideas?

[tower]

Okay, remote location is one of the 3, and your concerns are valid, unless you mount it inside the cabin (e.g. undr the rear seat (which presents other problems). Following the thousand word principle, I will see what photos I have. BRB.

[tower]

One upright, one sideways. Shot from passenger side.

[tower]

2 loaded sideways, bottom to bottom. Shot from driver's side. (Red tops have same dimensions as yello tops.)

[PARAGON]

Where did those pics come from. I have tried to get with some tray makers to have that exact setup for mine. I want to add a red top to my yellow top for the cranking amps. The yellows are not enough by themselves if they are a little drained and it gets cold. They don't have the suggested cranking amps that the H2 calls for, so I was wanting to do the Red/Yellow setup with isolation and it looked like it would fit like those pics but I was going to try to fab a tray myself.

So, the question is where?

[PARAGON]

The 2 red tops are not the same battery type as the yellow tops. The side posts are more outboard and they don't appear to have top posts.

[tower]

You may well need to fab them yourself, but the photos came from this forum. I'll see if I can find the threads for you.

[tower]

Hope this helps.

http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/6706011751/m/792603...926030515#7926030515 (http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/6706011751/m/7926030515/r/7926030515#7926030515)

http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/6706011751/m/984102136

http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/6706011751/m/806109376

[PARAGON]

That wasn't very funny. You should not take advantage of the mentally challenged like that.

The first post of mine in the first link is still accurate but the list has been added to. I now have an air compressor and 5 gallon stainless steel tank, horns, stuff to make a "gear drawer" for the back, cameras, etc. All sitting in my shop to be added to the truck. If I could ever get past this illness I could get some of this stuff done. I am still working on installing the controller for my Rancho shocks that was added about a month or so ago.

I just tried to contact Tomken again to see if their tray will work. I am just not up to fabbing something like this these days.

[tower]

I'm just guessing here, but I would think that you could get a thin (1/8" or less) plate from a welder and drill it for long bolts and a header bar or 2 fairly easily. Are you really ill or are you suffering from CRS* disease, like myself.


*(Can't Remember Sh*t)

[PARAGON]

Both

[tower]

Gosh, I'm sorry to hear that you are not well. If I may ask specifics, please post or PM your situation. If not, that's fine. I don't mean to pry, just curious.

All my best,

[ROX]

My bettery recently went dead. I couldn't believe it. I had to get a friend to jump it to start. At the dealership, for a check engine light one week later, the tech just looked at the window on top and said, "looks okay now." http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif From what I remember a good battery will read 13.4V (or so). A battery that needs replacing will measure 11.8V.( or so)
Never heard of an Optima Yellow Top before.

[NoMoGMPG]

Never mix battery types, stay red-red, yellow-yellow. They have different characteristics between them and will work against each other in chemistry ways. Got this from an Optima dealer.

Also, getting back to the post topic, ACDelco has for a LOOOONG time had a problem with leaking batteries at the positive terminal and it is WELL documented. If the vehicle is under GM or GMPP warranty, all subsequent damage from the leaking battery should be repaired either no charge or with the extended warranty deductible. Press the issue with the service manager, tell him/her that you KNOW their batteries have this issue and that you know that THEY know. I can't recount how many batteries, cables, and starters our dealership has replaced because of this issue.

The problem with the ACDelco batteries are that the engineers had the post retaineg plate inside the battery changed to a PLASTIC part, which will break and leak upon overtightening. Since the standard for tightening a battery bolt is S-N-U-G, this will crack or break the PLASTIC retainer.

Feed this to the service manager and he will cower at your intimate knowledge resulting in capitulation to you.

Dave

[NoMoGMPG]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
My bettery recently went dead. I couldn't believe it. I had to get a friend to jump it to start. At the dealership, for a check engine light one week later, the tech just looked at the window on top and said, "looks okay now." http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif From what I remember a good battery will read 13.4V (or so). A battery that needs replacing will measure 11.8V.( or so)
Never heard of an Optima Yellow Top before. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That tech should be fired for incompetence. Just because the "eye" shows green (they don't anymore, ACDelco took it out it was so misleading) doesn't mean the battery would pass a load test. The proper procedure would be a Midtronics battery tester sequence. Insist upon a load test and ask to see the results, it comes as a printout showing the various readings under load.

Dave

[ROX]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GMPartsGuy:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
My bettery recently went dead. I couldn't believe it. I had to get a friend to jump it to start. At the dealership, for a check engine light one week later, the tech just looked at the window on top and said, "looks okay now." http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif From what I remember a good battery will read 13.4V (or so). A battery that needs replacing will measure 11.8V.( or so)
Never heard of an Optima Yellow Top before. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That tech should be fired for incompetence. Just because the "eye" shows green (they don't anymore, ACDelco took it out it was so misleading) doesn't mean the battery would pass a load test. The proper procedure would be a Midtronics battery tester sequence. Insist upon a load test and ask to see the results, it comes as a printout showing the various readings under load.

Dave </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thank you! I had gone in for a different problem and didn't want to get into it at that point, but you have some great advice, and I will use it. I will actually take it to my tire guy for the load test, then return to the dealership to see what they say. Our dealership is new, but the tech is not. He's young, and I hope he can get better over time, not stuck in the "bring it back mentality." Hopefully a new manager will help, too.

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GMPartsGuy:
Never mix battery types, stay red-red, yellow-yellow. They have different characteristics between them and will work against each other in chemistry ways. Got this from an Optima dealer...... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Actually, used with an isolator, you can mix battery types. Even mix standard batteries with the Optimas. You'll also hear battery people say you have to put new batteries in at the same time because an old battery will make a newer one fail more quickly.

But this is all true if you hook them in parallel, not using a battery isolator that separates the batteries. The isolator setup is the key.

[H2-USA]

Another Leaking Battery at the Positive Terminal
Tally Up another one (2003 H2). I noticed something leaking in the drivers side wheel well, under the battery area, and also dripping on the sway bar. After opening the hood I found a puddle in the battery tray. I removed the battery to find a buddle of white ooze, where the battery acid had been digesting the 4 tray bolts, as well as the paint under the plastic tray.
SCREW battling with the dealership. I headed out and purchased an Optima Yellow top and after a bit of cleanup,the installation was complete and almost forgotten about ..... except for the $160 price tag.
If you haven't checked your original battery yet, here's your wake up call to take alook.

[ROX]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GMPartsGuy:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
My bettery recently went dead. I couldn't believe it. I had to get a friend to jump it to start. At the dealership, for a check engine light one week later, the tech just looked at the window on top and said, "looks okay now." http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif From what I remember a good battery will read 13.4V (or so). A battery that needs replacing will measure 11.8V.( or so)
Never heard of an Optima Yellow Top before. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That tech should be fired for incompetence. Just because the "eye" shows green (they don't anymore, ACDelco took it out it was so misleading) doesn't mean the battery would pass a load test. The proper procedure would be a Midtronics battery tester sequence. Insist upon a load test and ask to see the results, it comes as a printout showing the various readings under load.

Dave </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I had them run the battery load test at the dealership, because my poor car will be there for a few days. The battery was low and they are replacing it. I wonder if running my off road lights for a few miles finished it off.
They require 35A and I'm not sure about the electrical system of the H2. What is Current output of the stock alternator? I would think that running at 1500 RPM it would provide enough charge for a few miles.
Anyway, thanks for the tips. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

PARAGON I just found recently an all aluminum battery box and We are checking the demension in the batt factory location to see if it will fit. It is a dual battery box with all thread bolts to hold top on and hold the box on where the factory tray is after it is removed. I'll let You know when We get it measured out. Probably Thursday.
PARAGON I called shop and asked them to measure box and see if it fits factory location. It is built for 2 Optima batteries. I would think it will fit in factory location.
TAZ

[NoMoGMPG]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
I had them run the battery load test at the dealership, because my poor car will be there for a few days. The battery was low and they are replacing it. I wonder if running my off road lights for a few miles finished it off.
They require 35A and I'm not sure about the electrical system of the H2. What is Current output of the stock alternator? I would think that running at 1500 RPM it would provide enough charge for a few miles.
Anyway, thanks for the tips. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The stock alternator is 145 amps at 2000rpm, more than enough to run your lamps.

Dave

[ROX]

Is there a manual or something I can get that tells me all this?
I was just wondering about the catyletic converters and if they're hi-flow. Now I'm wondering about the alternator.
Does the Service Manual have these specs in it, and where do I find one?
Thanks again for the info! http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RLTAZH2:
PARAGON I just found recently an all aluminum battery box and We are checking the demension in the batt factory location to see if it will fit. It is a dual battery box with all thread bolts to hold top on and hold the box on where the factory tray is after it is removed. I'll let You know when We get it measured out. Probably Thursday.
PARAGON I called shop and asked them to measure box and see if it fits factory location. It is built for 2 Optima batteries. I would think it will fit in factory location.
TAZ </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Let me know if it works. Would get me going in that direction if you found one that worked.

[tower]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RLTAZH2:
aluminum battery box... dual battery box with all thread bolts to hold top on and hold the box on where the factory tray is after it is removed. I'll let You know when We get it measured out. Probably Thursday... It is built for 2 Optima batteries. I would think it will fit in factory location.
TAZ </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks, TAZ, WTF am I, Kosher chopped liver? Could you please let me know about this too? Don't make me beg! My knees don't look good bloodied!

[PARAGON]

Get what info you can, pictures dimensions etc.

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Guys on the batt box. here is the deal. The area to work with is 14 x 10.5 x 8.5
The box is 18.5 x 10.5 x 12
Would someone measure and verify that the area to work with is correct numbers. I called one of the guys at the shop and they got them off My rig.
It will not fit and it is designed to fit optima's just not in an H2.They do make a single box but, do not know how much help that would be. I You like i will run down the numbers on it for You. Let Me know.
tower You know I would not neglect You. I had know idea that You were in the mind for one. Who do You think I am the Mighty Kreskin. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif
TAZ

[PARAGON]

Taz,

From memory now, so please give me leeway. 14" is tight from the wheel well to the radiator hose. 10.5" is OK from the fuse box to the front but there is a hump under the fuse box that comes down to where the battery sits now.

[tower]

Well, Taz. yes! I suppose I do consider you as all knowing in many ways. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

I think (hope) you caught that I was just having some fun with you. If you look at page 1 of this post, you'll see a photo of 2 yellow tops. One is upright, the other is on its side. This may be the only way to fit a pair of Y/T's under the hood. The 2 reds in the photo below it, apparently, are shaped differently.