That looks pretty slick, seems though in other posts on the subject that you might have a problem with things overheating down there as it looks like its not going to provide a lot of ventilation. F5 might be able to comment... is there anything down there that needs some air?

So how do you keep the mud from packing in on top of the plate(s)?

or the UPC for that matter?

With the plate, don't you worry about heat build-up?

From what we heard it would be at least $1K if you had to have a tow truck come get you in Tellico. I am a lot happier spending less on the rocker rails and UCP than one tow would have cost me let alone the repair bill. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>We'd have pulled you down the hill... for only $950!

I've seen situations that if you didn't have UCP, you'd have a real problem with damage. We're going to put something stronger and wider on Big Nasty just so we can ride along the rocks without worrying.

In your opinion.... and a bad one at that.

I guess all those H1s and H2s with ladder type UCPs are somehow different than a H3. We slide our UCPs on H2s across all kinds of rocks.

Get the rock rails but don't waste the money on the UCP. Not only do you lose at least an inch of clerance but those are useless unless your going over really smooth rocks, otherwise there just going to get hungup on everything. Get a piece of 1/4" steel and have it cut to fit, it will give you total protection between the frame rails and you won't lose any clerance.

Looks something like this
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>No way would I put that under my truck. Just the thought of servicing the truck with that cake pan on there bothers me.

Can't say. However, if I was to add something to the GM UCP unit, I would add some quarter steel to the existing UCP. Be a lot cheaper, and would not need to add at all points.
Just measure some of the squares where extra protection might be nice, have the metal cut in squares, lay under the vehicle, drill and attach.
I'm not worried about losing one inch (8.1 inches is still respectable , even with running stock 33's. (More ground clearance than my Vette.)

Damn, if I had known that I wouldn't have gotten the UCP

The H3 UCP slides across rocks pretty good too

Well, 90+% of the time

I think you could make some great mud cakes with that thing as well.

I stopped off at the dealership nearly a month ago to get the price for the UPC... still waiting!

They just aren't very motivated up here in the PNW!

What are the UPC's going for? Can you order them factory direct and do the install yourself? Especially since the dealers don't want the sale!!!

GM part number: 12498474

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com has them for $294

It's a fairly easy bolt-on job that you can either do yourself or have a dealer do it for you.

I have no idea what your dealer is going to say but mine wanted $700+ for the UCP and $800+ for the rails plus install. Based on everything I have seen my dealer is way over priced on accessories though. You can get the UCP from GMPartsDirect.com for about $425 shipped if I remember correctly. Yes you can install yourself as show below in the hotel parking lot at Tellico

BTW, thanks again for the help guys.

While I was looking for that pic you posted damn it!

Campmaster-

I Got mine from H2parts.com for ~$300 Takes less than an hour to bolt on. Tell your dealer to GFthemselves.

I live in the desert so I have no worries about mud and on the extremly rare chance that I ever got in to some I would just drop the plates and hose them off.
I guess if you do a lot of mud wheeling and don't want to take the time to drop and clean them then these would not be the best thing to use, these are better for mostly rocks and crunchy stuff. The UCP would probably be better for mud not so good on rocks.
There is no problem with heat, it's not like its sealed up and I have had no problems wheeling in 120+ degree heat.

Don't get your panties in a bunch. The UCP is better than nothing but if given the choice would you rather drag a ladder across a bed of jagged rocks or a sheet of smooth steel? Obviously the sheet of steel is going to make it easier because it has nothing to get hung up on.

I can tell you from personal experience that the UCP works great on rocks. If your concern is the pointed rock sticking up, well when I (or my spotter) pick my line, I (he/she) make sure it is not going to be an issue. Is it the best possible protection for every situation, no way, but I wouldn't knock it. Everything has it's strengths and weaknesses.

I've already got well over an 400 pounds worth of crap for off roading... after I get the hilift jack, winch with bumper, lifted and larger tires, couple jerry cans of fuel... I'm not sure how much a .25 inch plate of steel weighs, but I'm thinking its starting to really add up. Just how durable is this transmission... I don't remember asking if it had a oil cooler on it, but I'm thinking that and maybe a triple lock might not be a bad idea. I'd be entrested in know what any of you wizards out there think of this link...

http://www.partshp.com/Converters.htm

Get the rock rails but don't waste the money on the UCP. Not only do you lose at least an inch of clerance but those are useless unless your going over really smooth rocks, otherwise there just going to get hungup on everything. Get a piece of 1/4" steel and have it cut to fit, it will give you total protection between the frame rails and you won't lose any clerance.

Looks something like this
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>No way would I put that under my truck. Just the thought of servicing the truck with that cake pan on there bothers me. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

if the skids can't at least hold the vehicles weight w/o bending, they are worthless IMO. The stock bars work good enogh so far for me on my h2 but I have bent them twice (they suck to bend back because they are pretty strong). But, if they were not strong, my tcase or tranny would have been screwed (6400lbs pushing down on alum. tranny housing, sitting on a rock). If the plates are flimsy, they will just bend and still put pressure on your t-case/tranny, etc if you get high centerd. This will be expensive when the aluminum casing cracks!

An inch or two makes no difference when you are on a serious trail. You can't measure it anyways. What will make a diffence is having some protection underneath because inevitably it's going to get hit. 1/4" steel plate is the way to go. It's going to weigh maybe around 200 lbs for the one previously discussed by someone else, however, if you have it segmented, it'll be easier to manage when doing the maintenances. Also you can place a jack at any spot and it'll lift the vehicle up. Very important when stuck on a trail, and you will one day. I have 1/4" armor on my old vehicle and I never regreted it. It will give you more confidence to try tougher courses without worrying about damages. Plus it's kind of fun watching bystanders scrinch at the grinding and scratching noise coming from the armor scraping on rocks and you are the only one that knows there is no damage.

One more thing, when you're on a serious trail, you'll be tilted and offbalanced. It's going to feel very awkward. On top of that, you may bounce a little bit too. Sometimes, you are going to wish that your vehicle wasn't lifted so high. Just my two cents worth.

Are there any vendors that are thinking about carrying 1/4" armor?