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Re: Chassis Lube Points
You do have to remove the skid plate.
You do not have to remove the tires. You will need to turn them one way and then the other to get at the lower ball joints on either side. |
Re: Chassis Lube Points
Thanks, should we take this to any lube place to do this and what do they generally charge?
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Re: Chassis Lube Points
They will charge you extra for the skid plate removal, and yes, any place can do it. Use synthetic grease for better life.
There is one zerk that is really hidden, (I think that one may be called the pitman or idler arm pivot), and invisible from underneath, and super hard to see from the engine bay. You can feel it from underneath. It is recessed in some metal. Mine had a straight zerk, and I could not put a grease gun on it. An hour later, I managed by feel to thread out the old zerk and install a 90 degree zerk, so that I could lube the stupidly designed lube point. |
Re: Chassis Lube Points
I did all but the Idler Arm pivot (10 total) in my driveway without removing anything with a standard grease gun. As someone mentioned you need to install a 90deg. fitting on it to grease it. Stupid design.
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Re: Chassis Lube Points
Quote:
I recently had a shop replace all of my exhaust header bolts. GM has newer replacement ones that are stronger and the bolt head is a little bigger. The broken ones came out with a stud remover and PB Blaster, so we got lucky we didn't have to drill any out. |
Re: Chassis Lube Points
Reviving this old thread. Years later I finally put in the 90deg. zerk into the idler arm pivot. It's 1/4-28 taper 90deg. stainless steel zerk. It's only a few bucks. You can see it through the front passenger tow hook hole. Take off the skid plate and take it off w/ an open end wrench (I think it was 5/16"...) and put in the new one.
I also bought rubber caps to put on all 11 to keep the crud out of all them. |
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