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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MisterEd:
Hey, your call but I can tell you in spending about $5,000 over the past several years on powdercoating I've never had a problem because I went to the folks who consistently won at car shows and found out who their powdercoaters were.......your guy who wants $75 is being "safe" with your money...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Thanks. I fully understood your opinion the first time you posted it. These are not car show parts for pretty boy cars and toys. These are rims that will be used repeatedly under harsh conditions. I therefore feel more comfortable spending $75 to insure a better bonding to prevent harms that can befall a powder coat. The powder coaters I am using are of an industrial background, not focusing on pretty pretty car toys (although they do some of it), but rather in powder coating applications for endurance and metal protection. This is one of the reasons I am using them. I visited their shops before I gave them the business to see "what they did." Also, I was in an industry that catered to industrial surface preparation for a decade as well, so I think I have a bit of a handle on this situation. I can say that I never saw a painting or coating company not prep a surface by blasting when the option was available. I think blasting will lend to a longer lasting and more durable finish. I am spending $75, not $5000, so I think I can bear the expense on my $150 set of rims. Thanks again for your advice, please accept the fact that I don't find your suggestion sound in this particular application. However, I could possibly see your angle should your truck be one that will never leave the pavement. We can agree to disagree on this one. ________________________ Black 2003 H2 - Just like most of yours, just possibly with less crap bolted on. My job: http://www.HardOCP.com |
Roger that on the FRS Det, excuse my ignorance. I will pick up a set at Walmart this week. Probably should have a set for the truck anyway...
________________________ Black 2003 H2 - Just like most of yours, just possibly with less crap bolted on. My job: http://www.HardOCP.com |
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MisterEd:
Whoever said you had to beadblast is selling you an extra service unless you're starting with a wheel that already has a finish on it. I started with just polished wheels, we "cleaned" the little dust that was on the new wheels off of them, and then powdercoated... 12,000 miles later, there are absolutely no problems and that's on and off road.....including a lot of mountain gravel roads..... Ed<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I have been powdercoating factory wheels, so they absolutley need to be beadblasted first. We tried one wheel without striping it and the PC didn't adhere properly. "Powder coating is an advanced method of applying a decorative and protective finish to a wide range of materials and products that are used by both industries and consumers. The powder used for the process is a mixture of finely ground particles of pigment and resin, which is sprayed onto a surface to be coated. The charged powder particles adhere to the electrically grounded surfaces until heated and fused into a smooth coating in a curing oven. The result is a uniform, durable, high-quality, and attractive finish. Powder coating is the fastest-growing finishing technology in North America, representing over 10% of all industrial finishing applications." found on: http://www.powdercoating.org/benefits/ We only deal with high quality industrial powdercoaters, and everyone of them that I consulted with strongly suggested that the factory wheels be striped for the the PC to adhere properly. BTW, your black Atlas wheels look great. S&B Member since '03 |
The "pretty boy toy" you are referring to was a magazine cover, 1971 Panterra with a 500 hp, 351c that was NEVER trailered to a show...........it ran 200mph+ and never lost a show........was driven in snow, rain, 100 degree plus weather and powdercoat never had a problem........and that inludes the water lines...being the knowledgeable person you are, I'm sure you know what that means!
As I said you decide but don't knock me for successfully doing something different than your "expert" opinion and having it work........ My H2 has been from mud to gravel to boulders, over trees and through streams........no flaking, no scuffing, no problems.........and I have no bling bling on my truck either, it's a working vehicle not a street queen! My method has proven itself! You are free to do whatever you want, just know you don't have a monopoly on ideas about powdercoating!! Ed Age is a state of mind. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter..... |
Hey, you guys do whatever you want....... I'm just saying I have powdercoated non coated items without blasting them and the coating has held just fine........and it has been my powdercoaters suggestions to do so, not mine....
Cheers to all! Ed |
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MisterEd:
You are free to do whatever you want, just know you don't have a monopoly on ideas about powdercoating!! Ed <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Did I knock your "ideas"? No. All that I did was give the experience of what I've encountered to some of the folks here that asked for it. Don't have a hissy because my information is different from your's. S&B Member since '03 |
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MisterEd:
Hey, you guys do whatever you want....... I'm just saying I have powdercoated non coated items without blasting them and the coating has held just fine........and it has been my powdercoaters suggestions to do so, not mine.... Cheers to all! Ed<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I think we all got the first three times you mentioned it. I respect that you have an opinion. I just happen to realize that its "wrong". JK!!!! ![]() On another subject, why do they call you "MisterEd"? Oh wait.....never mind, I don't want to know. ![]() ________________________ Black 2003 H2 - Just like most of yours, just possibly with less crap bolted on. My job: http://www.HardOCP.com |
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Detonate:
From what I was told, the H2 Stock Rims are already bare metal. With that said, I'll probably be getting mine done by a friend for free, and I'll have him bead blast them "just in case". If I were paying, I'd go with whatever the Powder coated suggested, and is willing to warrenty. ------------------------------ <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Somebody is feeding you some bad info. The factory rims are definitely coated. Are you going to go with black rims? That'll look great on your rig. S&B Member since '03 |
Proof is in the performance........
Mine is doing just fine........hope yours does as well... And even though your from Texas, I guess you don't know which end kicks........ ![]() ![]() |
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Detonate:
It basically boils down to whether or not the rims are coated.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> It seems to me that if the rims were not coated they would oxidize very quickly in some of the saltier environments that some of the H2s are obviously kept in. Even the coating argument aside, blasting the wheels will allow for two things that simply wiping the rims down with cleaner will not accomplish. 1. You get a "new" surface free of impurities. 2. And most importantly, after blasting you get a rougher surface area that will increase surface area and porosity of the wheel allow for a powder coating that will undoubtedly adhere better. Now whether or not you need it to be done is up for grabs, but when I sell mine (and I will at some point), I will show them the invoice that proves they were blasted before powder coating and use it as a sales tool. ________________________ Black 2003 H2 - Just like most of yours, just possibly with less crap bolted on. My job: http://www.HardOCP.com |
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MisterEd:
Proof is in the performance........ Mine is doing just fine........hope yours does as well... And even though your from Texas, I guess you don't know which end kicks........ ![]() |
That's all I was saying as well but to the FROGMASTER or whatever the name is........not you DRTYFN
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MisterEd:
And even though your from Texas, I guess you don't know which end kicks........ ![]() ![]() I don't know about GA, but they teach us not to stand behind jackasses in TX so we don't find out first hand. ________________________ Black 2003 H2 - Just like most of yours, just possibly with less crap bolted on. My job: http://www.HardOCP.com |
Ok, ok, ok... Opinions are like *******s... everybody's got one and the other guy's usually stinks.
Let's just agree to disagree. Let the prospective powdercoater decide(yes) whether or not(the right way) to strip the wheels first(do it) or not(you'll be sorry if you don't). ![]() S&B Member since '03 |
From American Racing Wheels warranty........."Polished and billet aluminum wheels oxidize and require regular maintenance. The finish is not covered by this warranty."
So draw your own conclusions about all wheels being coated........and DRTYFN, AMEN!! Ed |
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by FrgMstr:
2. And most importantly, after blasting you get a rougher surface area that will increase surface area and porosity of the wheel allow for a powder coating that will undoubtedly adhere better. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>That's what common sense would say, and it sounds very good when "said". But in truth, because of the way powder coating works, the roughnes of the surface doesn't matter at all. Really a smoother surface is going to give you a better look. And a rough surface will show as the powder forms a uniform coat on the surface and is fused with the metal when cured. ------------------------------ North Texas Hummer Team Member ![]() 2003 Red H2 equipped with Tough Country Heavy Duty Armor Series Front End with Winch, Rear Bumper, Brush Guard, and Roof Rack. |
From GM:
Document ID# 291461 2003 HUMMER H2 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Aluminum Wheel Refinishing A protective clear coating covers the surface of original equipment cast aluminum wheels. A surface degradation may develop if frequent automatic car wash cleaning wears off the factory applied protective clear coating. This can happen at some automatic car wash facilities that use aggressive brushes to clean whitewalls and tires. Once you damage the protective clear coating, exposure to caustic cleaners and road salt can cause further surface deterioration. Damage to the protective clear coating is corrected by replacing the damaged wheel. Refinishing is no longer recommended. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Document ID# 291461 2003 HUMMER H2 |
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