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Yes, only if there is no advertising is the Supplier price above invoice.
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I have compared MSN Autos and Edmunds prices, to actual dealer invoices, on numerous occasions. They have always been "right on the money", except they don't show, and don't claim to show, co-op advertising assessments. |
Build a base 29500 msrp then and compare it to the ACTUAL vehicles on dealers lots that I have shown.
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I used my Uncles GM discount. He is retired from GM. I bought a H3 sticker priced at 39,995 and I paid 30,900 for it. That is a HUGE discount in my book and I even got the DVD players in the headrests and the 33" tire cover.
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Are you looking at actual invoices? If so, your figures must be correct. If not, how do I find each dealership's advertising assessment. Unless I add advertising assessments, the GM Supplier price keeps showing as more than invoice price. |
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Now that is a GREAT deal!!! ![]() |
thanks everyone for helping me out with the info... now i have to decide whether the difference in "invoice" price and/or GM Supplier price would warrant driving an extra 50 miles to a farther dealership to save $$$...
another question... using the GM Supplier Discount, can I "build" an H3, or does the discount only apply to cars already on the lot?? (I ask because if you go to the gm supplier website it allows you to build all if not most other GM cars and price out the discount but not the HUMMER brand).... anyone know if the gm supplier discount applies if I'm building an H3??!???? |
So who can/will just post an actual dealer invoice showing the layout??
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Yes, the discount is worth the extra 50 mile drive. You don't have to take it back to that dealer for service, you can use the closer one. Yes again to ordering an H3 and using the discount. Remember, the dealer does not have to accept the discount so they may push you to take one off the lot.
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Every H3 on our lot (and H2 for that matter) has a GMID/Supplier price below our invoice. Actual Hummer H3s, not Edmunds.com H3s.
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I'm sure you guys who sell Hummers must be correct. Perhaps, as KJS suggested, one of you will post an illustrative invoice for the benefit of the rest of us. ![]() |
KJS hit the mark with the advertising, because it is included in my invoices, my GMID/Supplier is less than invoice. remove the advertising from invoice and then the GMID is above invoice.
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Therefore, a dealer who doesn't have co-op advertising would be much more likely to sell at GM Supplier price. For example, I bought my H2, at NuCar Hummer, in New Castle, DE. The invoice didn't show any advertising and GM Supplier price was about $700. over invoice. |
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Now now we both know that is not true ![]() Anywho, back on track....even if you sell at true cost, dealer invoice, GMID, or GMS, etc etc etc. the dealer still gets the HB (3% on Hummer MSRP minus dest), 3-5% reimbursement of the actual discount amount from GM for any GMID deals, plus any borderline shady tricks Finance may hide in there on a lease or purchase deal! For an example, H3 Adventure MSRP 38,115.00 GMID 34,871.10 Invoice 34,424.00 (no co-op) So Dealer will be getting $447.10 right off the start for difference between GMID and Invoice. Next they get $1143.45 for holdback. And then approx $162 b/c of the GMID (3-5%, depends on model). I would say that a Dealership making $1752.74+ for someone just walking in saying you have an H3 with the VIN of _______ I would like to buy it,...is not all that bad at all! And that $1750+ is not counting any padding or hiding by Finance |
Good to a point. What you are leaving out is that most dealerships automatically place charges on the vehicles to help support the dealership. We check them in at invoice minus holdback and then add about 606 to every car state inspections, checking that all works right and labor for adding the roof rak or brushguard or steps that are sent separately. We have approx 3mill in inventory and need some profit to make the risk worthwhile, would you agree?
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Now now we both know that is not true ![]() If you mean the coorporation makes a pretty profit at invoice, you must not be taking into account the 4000 dollar phone bill I get, 4000 in lights and so on...touching up defects or missing parts, keys. Mortgages/rent on property, there are expenses involved. There is room for negotiation, but dealerships cannot survive on Invoice, GMS, and GMID/Supplier selling. A good deal is the one that does not require more than you could afford monthly, more down payment than you are comfortable with, fair money for your trade and then that only makes a deal good if you are in the car you wanted to buy or like. |
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Now now we both know that is not true ![]() If you mean the coorporation makes a pretty profit at invoice, you must not be taking into account the 4000 dollar phone bill I get, 4000 in lights and so on...touching up defects or missing parts, keys. Mortgages/rent on property, there are expenses involved. There is room for negotiation, but dealerships cannot survive on Invoice, GMS, and GMID/Supplier selling. A good deal is the one that does not require more than you could afford monthly, more down payment than you are comfortable with, fair money for your trade and then that only makes a deal good if you are in the car you wanted to buy or like. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> ![]() WA WA WAH WAH WAAAAA WAH WAAA WAH....... |
every now and then have to input something for our side too!!
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The definition of a GOOD DEAL (for both) is when both the
SELLER AND BUYER are happy when the deal is complete... RYD |
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We looked into buying an H3 priced at $39,995 and were told that the GMS (employee pricing) was $34750. How did you manage to get it for $30,900? |
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