PhilD, Have a little faith. I aced physics in college . Only way to measure current is to have the voltmeter make the connection. When the voltmeter made contact, the DRLs turned on and the current measured was 125 mA. Took the probes off and the DRLs turned off. No other connection was present in parallel. Promise.

Mango -- Saltwater Flyfisherman, Photographer, Varmint Hunter -- Fort Worth, Tx

"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."

Hey NSXTC,

Thanks for the tip... When my wife dropped me off at the dealership this morning to pick up my new H2 I came with screwdriver and about 4" of 18AWG in hand. I planneds to do the mod at the office in the afternoon but when teh putz salesguy did not have the paperwork ready I found myself with some spare time...
Anyway took all about 3 minutes... Thanks again

03 H2
02 Viper GTS
02 Z71 Suburban

OC, Why did you do that at the dealer?

Now they are going to offer it as a 99.99 dealer option that every poor newbie is going to buy

SIG/Sauer collector with Pewter LUX, Air suspension package, GPS, Cobra75wxst CB, UnidenBC245XLT, Valentine One.

NSXTC,

I picked up my Black loaded H2 last week, and discovered that in fact the lower lights were not fog lights, that they were DRL's.

Thanks for your information.
Operation done.

I would like to get different bulbs for the DRL's, or replace them for fog lights.

www.x-tremeoutfitters.ca

Thanks,

The diagram and picture was very helpful. It allowed a nonmechanic less than 5 min.

Just to let you guys know, hooked up the DRL Diode to make the DRL's come on with all the lights and the park lights and just FYI the end of the Diode with the SILVER STRIP goes toward the PARK LIGHT RELAY!! And it works great.... Thanks for the info just thought that I would pass some along myself....BADRAP

just did mine , really easy

'03 Yellow H2 LUX 17" Detata Platoon's XM Radio

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> so I'm not sure why you are getting the 125mA reading, as the DRL's draw more than that, unless GM have found a way to defy Ohms Law.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Phil...

Ohm's Law still applies, even for GM, as well as other rules for parallel circuits.

After the 10A fuse the DRL circuit becomes a parallel circuit with one circuit through the relay contacts through the bulb filaments to G100 ground. The other circuit goes through the relay coil to ground through the DRL control of the BCM or through the added diode to the Park Light control of the BCM, so actually the diode only carries 125mA of the total load.

The BCM could not handle the 54W load of the filaments, the reason for the relays, and the added diode becomes a one way street for the DRL relay coil to seek an additional ground when the park light circuit has continuity.

Don

I'm gonna try the diode thing! Thanx 4 da info.

Looks Like The Last Post on this was in December.
Just wondering if anyone has come up with any problems since doing this?

Looks Like The Last Post on this was in December.
Just wondering if anyone has come up with any problems since doing this?

Did it about a month ago. Simple, easy and quick. Works like a charm.

Did it about a month ago. Simple, easy and quick. Works like a charm.

Not for me over the last 5 months since I did it but I think Alec or one of the other CO. guys had a problem that the dealer attributed to the relay jump.

Not for me over the last 5 months since I did it but I think Alec or one of the other CO. guys had a problem that the dealer attributed to the relay jump.

I have had this mod done for about a year now with absolutely no problems!

I have had this mod done for about a year now with absolutely no problems!

It's been a few months since this topic was active so I thought I would bring this to the surface again for the benefit of new H2 owners. I did this modification with the diode last night in my 2004. 5 minutes to make the wire 4 minutes to install. Works great!!

It's been a few months since this topic was active so I thought I would bring this to the surface again for the benefit of new H2 owners. I did this modification with the diode last night in my 2004. 5 minutes to make the wire 4 minutes to install. Works great!!

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by H2 Vette:
5 minutes to make the wire 4 minutes to install. Works great!! <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>WHAT TOOK YOU SO LONG??

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by H2 Vette:
5 minutes to make the wire 4 minutes to install. Works great!! <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>WHAT TOOK YOU SO LONG??

[/quote]_WHAT TOOK YOU SO LONG??_ [/quote]

Too busy gutting out Bose. One day when I figure out how to post pics, I'll show all the work!

[/quote]_WHAT TOOK YOU SO LONG??_ [/quote]

Too busy gutting out Bose. One day when I figure out how to post pics, I'll show all the work!

Made this mod in about 2 minutes, took longer to look up the wire. This is such a great idea. I hope everyone will share these ideas like this as it is just a little gem. I'm making a small personal note book off the ideas so i can always refer back on next rig. I used a real light gage wire. I think it was about 20 gage. Do You think that will be heavy enough. Has anyone experemented with wire size? I have not put diode in yet I'm watching to see if while driving around it gets others to take more notice so as to prevent someone from smashing into Me. I have always been a defensive driver but it is all the others I worry about on the road.
I'm wondering and it is not really all that important but I'm assuming a person would want to keep more replacement bulbs around as the increased time of the different bulbs being on when normally they would be off will upset how long they were supposed to last. This thought just came to Me as some of the billet trim like roof top marker billet is held on by 3M double side tape so the more often they need replaced then tape needs replaced. Where can I buy that 3M tape that is used in alot of the mods on H2? Your info will be appreciated. Also do You think the bulb life will shorten all that much as I mentioned?
Thanks
Rick

Made this mod in about 2 minutes, took longer to look up the wire. This is such a great idea. I hope everyone will share these ideas like this as it is just a little gem. I'm making a small personal note book off the ideas so i can always refer back on next rig. I used a real light gage wire. I think it was about 20 gage. Do You think that will be heavy enough. Has anyone experemented with wire size? I have not put diode in yet I'm watching to see if while driving around it gets others to take more notice so as to prevent someone from smashing into Me. I have always been a defensive driver but it is all the others I worry about on the road.
I'm wondering and it is not really all that important but I'm assuming a person would want to keep more replacement bulbs around as the increased time of the different bulbs being on when normally they would be off will upset how long they were supposed to last. This thought just came to Me as some of the billet trim like roof top marker billet is held on by 3M double side tape so the more often they need replaced then tape needs replaced. Where can I buy that 3M tape that is used in alot of the mods on H2? Your info will be appreciated. Also do You think the bulb life will shorten all that much as I mentioned?
Thanks
Rick

While I did the diode mod a couple months ago, and it works just fine, exactly like it is supposed to, the one thing I didn't like was the loss of the ability to run with only the parking lights on. By the way, to confirm what has already been mentioned, a small diode is all that is needed. The current draw for the relay, used to turn on the DRLs, is only 150 ma (0.15 amp).

To have no DRLs with the parking lights, is something that I still wanted when I go cruising in the Christmas Lane area of town (hundreds of houses lit up, and people cruise through without their headlights on – very holidayific!). The DRLs being on would be pretty annoying.

When I installed the diode, a while back, I used a "wire nut" (a little twisty thing that you put over the bare wires to tighten the two wires together. I figured that if ever I wanted to revert back to the original working all I needed to do was untwist the wire nut.

Yeah, that works, of course, but I wanted a cleaner solution. So, since I was under the hood to wire in some other accessory, I decided to bring the wires out for the DRL mod. It is a simple switch that I mounted on the dash, directly in series with those two wires.

Switch on (contacts bridged) and the mod is in place, giving me the DRLs on with the headlights.

Switch off (contacts open) and the action is like original. Thus I can have just the parking lights on (no DRLs).

AL MOORE had mentioned this a while back, but I only thought I’d resurrect the subject, to remind people that you can have both modes, with a simple switch. (Bringing the wires through the firewall was the HARD part, but I was already doing that for the other wiring I was doing anyway.)

While I did the diode mod a couple months ago, and it works just fine, exactly like it is supposed to, the one thing I didn't like was the loss of the ability to run with only the parking lights on. By the way, to confirm what has already been mentioned, a small diode is all that is needed. The current draw for the relay, used to turn on the DRLs, is only 150 ma (0.15 amp).

To have no DRLs with the parking lights, is something that I still wanted when I go cruising in the Christmas Lane area of town (hundreds of houses lit up, and people cruise through without their headlights on – very holidayific!). The DRLs being on would be pretty annoying.

When I installed the diode, a while back, I used a "wire nut" (a little twisty thing that you put over the bare wires to tighten the two wires together. I figured that if ever I wanted to revert back to the original working all I needed to do was untwist the wire nut.

Yeah, that works, of course, but I wanted a cleaner solution. So, since I was under the hood to wire in some other accessory, I decided to bring the wires out for the DRL mod. It is a simple switch that I mounted on the dash, directly in series with those two wires.

Switch on (contacts bridged) and the mod is in place, giving me the DRLs on with the headlights.

Switch off (contacts open) and the action is like original. Thus I can have just the parking lights on (no DRLs).

AL MOORE had mentioned this a while back, but I only thought I’d resurrect the subject, to remind people that you can have both modes, with a simple switch. (Bringing the wires through the firewall was the HARD part, but I was already doing that for the other wiring I was doing anyway.)

I think it was mentioned before, but I just hooked up the DRL's with the headlight jumper. So I have the option of having only the parking lights on. The DRL's are on during the day, and whenever the headlights switch on. Looks great at night! Merry Christmas!

I think it was mentioned before, but I just hooked up the DRL's with the headlight jumper. So I have the option of having only the parking lights on. The DRL's are on during the day, and whenever the headlights switch on. Looks great at night! Merry Christmas!

Hummm, connecting to the headlights...
Yes, that will give the usually preferred and cool (IMHO2) look of the forward four white lights on all at the same time, and you can still have the parking lights alone.

Good, but I still have the option to have the parking lights and the DRLs and not the headlights (not often, in reality).

I do like having the option, but if I were to want the DRLs+Headlights then your method would be an easy way, and no wires going through the firewall, too (what a chore). Thanks!

Hummm, connecting to the headlights...
Yes, that will give the usually preferred and cool (IMHO2) look of the forward four white lights on all at the same time, and you can still have the parking lights alone.

Good, but I still have the option to have the parking lights and the DRLs and not the headlights (not often, in reality).

I do like having the option, but if I were to want the DRLs+Headlights then your method would be an easy way, and no wires going through the firewall, too (what a chore). Thanks!

I saw where it was mentioned in the thread that the jump could be made to work with just low beams. With the Anal law enforcement officers around here that is what i would like to do. Does anyone have a diagram or picture to share?

Just connect along the yellow line there. You should also throw in the relay so the drl's don't turn on the headlights in the day...

Hey Doc,
So does that mean durring the day when your DRls are on your parking lights are not on as well? And at night when you throw on (or when it auto switches) the headlights the DRls automaticaly stay illuminated? If so I think thats what I would want. How is that done again?

This may be it????

That's relay, spelled D-I-O-D-E.