What was funny on the GS carnage day was that the tie rod breakages were sort of a side item. We were so busy towing/winching vehicles over obstacles that there was plenty of time to have Adam repair tierods off to the side. By the time we'd get the last dead vehicle over the obstacle, Adam would have a tierod in place and the H2 ready to go.

hey fox not sure if tcase or shafts or diffs yet should hear from salt lake today and have more info tonight they are tearing it down now at the dealer .

boy oma this is a awsome pic thanks for getting it up

pretty sure some said front shaft still spinning but nothing to the wheels .

Yep, they were spinning. The front wheels did nothing and the back wheels didn't rotate, but shook violently.

Was it an actual light or just the display read out???

maybe not if he had the rear locked up.

I've snapped an axle before and there is no shaking or jerking once it's snapped.

Maybe it blew a spider in the rear diff.

THEORY:

assuming it's not the t-case because it sounds like alan is saying power was going front and back.

while on the obstacle the front could have spun the teeth like Bebe did and then all of the torque is now applied to the rear, since the front is free-wheeling. In an instant it could have blown the rear as all of that pressure transfer totally to the rear wheels with it still trying to make the climb.

Were these all stock tie rods? If so, sounds like the Fabtech solution should be mandatory prior to entering Moab.

Seth...From what I could tell Neo had 0 power to any wheels after the breakage occured. There was a loud pop and shaking of at least 3 of his wheels and then nothing. The rear driveshaft definately kept spinning, but I never checked the front personally.

Marine...All stock tie rods, but I think they were flukes. There was another contributing factor in their somewhere. Think maybe an overly soft suspension caused too much wheel hop.

I'm not sure I follow what you are saying. If you are in 4lo there is a 50/50 split at the t-case. If you drop one of the driveshafts ALL of the power is then being applied to the other end. You are in essence droping a driveshaft in this case therefore all of the engine torque would be applied to the functioning output shaft.

So, it sounds like it spun the teeth on the rear as well.

Anyone know what the front/rear ring/pinion is for the H3?

For broken drive line in either the front or rear, you can remove the drive shaft and plug the holes in the transfer case and differential (a wad of duct tape works, or you can get some machined out of plastic, rubber, etc), and drive in either high or low LOCK.

The same trick works with half-shafts on the H1 by removing it & plugging the heared hub & differential output and driving in LOCK.