I just came back from a Lift shop. They suggested that if I use this lift, to re-gear my rear axle.

Hey guys... just wanted to let you know that I called RC and even though I could not find the VP of sales to talk about the group discount, another sales rep. told me that if we get 10 or 15 people and we place ONE order to the same address and under the same credit card (or check) they could offer a very good discount... he didn't told me how much because that'd be up to the sale's VP, but a discount is possible.

The bad news are, that the lift will be available until mid 2006, he said that the engineer who designed this lift made some modifications and they have to test it again after is ready... so, we have 6 months to work something out with the sales people :-D

Merry Christmas eveyone!!

Come on!!! One shipping location!! Yeah right Fob my house. One Credit card, Yeah, I wonder who's credit card can we use???

The delay may sound like bad to news to you guys. But take it from someone that just went through a bunch of BS with a lift that was rushed to the market. BTW- DON'T BUY A RANCHO LIFT!
At least Rough Country is making mods and taking time to make sure everything is good before they release to the public.

that whole shipping thing is BS. What you guys should do is start a private PM with info/ addresses to give to these guys and than ship accordingly. Ship to one address? I would have laughed my ass off at the person that made that statement. I would talk with the VP of Sales. better yet, Pm Jason and see what he can do. Jason has GREAT prices on acc.'s and maybe he will be a dealer and get better rates. it can't hurt to ask. Can it?

I wouldn't mind putting it on my credit card ( I could fly around the world for free afterward).



Sweet air mile points.

No answer on how it'll do side hilling yet. I've four wheeled for years and one thing I HATE is suckin' up the seat trying to keep the uphill wheels on the ground. Another thing I enjoy is just getting in a vehicle, with 33" tires, without climbing into it. I see a big lift on any vehicle, without a roll cage, and it makes me wonder.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by timgco:
The delay may sound like bad to news to you guys. But take it from someone that just went through a bunch of BS with a lift that was rushed to the market. BTW- DON'T BUY A RANCHO LIFT!
At least Rough Country is making mods and taking time to make sure everything is good before they release to the public.

that whole shipping thing is BS. What you guys should do is start a private PM with info/ addresses to give to these guys and than ship accordingly. Ship to one address? I would have laughed my ass off at the person that made that statement. I would talk with the VP of Sales. better yet, Pm Jason and see what he can do. Jason has GREAT prices on acc.'s and maybe he will be a dealer and get better rates. it can't hurt to ask. Can it? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I agree with you timgco, it's good to know that they are taking their time to fix all the issues with the lift kit BEFORE it hits the market, I said bad news because I want to get the lift and 35 inch tires ASAP... I guess I'll just have to wait now.

As for shipping to one address, that's what the sales rep. tod me and I also thought that was BS, that's why I want to talk to the VP of sales... I also thought of telling Jason to look into it and I think that would be the best option, but since the kit won't be available for the next 6 months I'll just give it a couple of months before I start asking.

You have got to remember who you are talking to when dealing with purchasing an item in bulk and having it shipped to different locations. You are discussing this with the factory/manufacturer. They are probably not setup that way in their information and billing systems to handle multiple single orders. These manu's prefer to setup manufacturing a given quantity (lets say 1000 units) in a period of time. Then they break down the machines to setup to manu another type of product in another large quatity. They tend not to 'store' or warehouse their product as that's money sitting. Manufacturing money is made in the process of making and selling. So distributors will take a quantity, warehouse the item till it sells. Pricing for the manu is to cover the operation of the business (material, labor, overhead, etc) and slight profit. The price for a distributor is higher due to covering estimated holding costs and the slight handling costs. Distributors take a bite in business if a product they have bought in quantity doesn't move. That's the risk in business of product sales. There are lots of variables to consider. Probably the best thing to do is locate a distributor of RC, negotiate a price percentage over cost, and have them direct ship from their warehouse. That way, the distro will know exacting how many confirmed sales they will have, and since they are a distributor, they get great prices for more quantity ordered from the manu.
Think of this like not ordering directly from GM Hummer to get your H3. You had to go through a distro for them to get one.

Since the Rancho lift had a block drop for the torsion bar, I wonder that kind of link RC has for their torsion bar setup. I'd really like to see a less drop bracket for the lower control arms, longer lower control arms with coil-over shock. This would rid the torsion all together. To add, the angle which the coil-over is set, the coil could have a high spring rate, thus lesson the effects of sidehilling. To match the 'coil' configuration, replace the rear leaf with a Tahoe-like link system and coils.

well thinking i will do wheels and 35's now and wait to see when lift comes available .

What sort of gearing would 37's need to feel like a factory rig concerning power? 5.13s?

Has anyone else regeared their ride?

Another question to throw out there...

I'm trying to figure out if you'd have to change the locker out for one that accepts a higher ratio gear OR if you're currently forced to get a set of "thick gears" made (maybe some already exist?) to regear an H3.

Is the rear locker in the 10 bolt rear axle an EATON model of the elocker? I could look up the model and see where the carrier gear break is and figure this out if I knew the model rear locker thats in the H3s?

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by HUMMER NUT:
I just came back from a Lift shop. They suggested that if I use this lift, to re-gear my rear axle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


Don't forget the front diff.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Operator24:
What sort of gearing would 37's need to feel like a factory rig concerning power? 5.13s?

Has anyone else regeared their ride? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Google is your friend.

http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartire.htm

LOL... oh please those "calculators" aren't very good. They don't take into account all the things that matter when you regear. Its more than just making up for tire size. If you're running a really heavy tire/wheel combo, you should be thinking about that when you regear. If you're a stick or an auto, that comes into play. I'll even argue that you may consider different gears than what a calculator like that suggests depending simply on where you drive most(freeway, mountain roads, or is the rig strictly for offroad?)

If you're doing more freeway driving than anything, you'll want to stick closer to a stock gear so you have a full range of speed. A 4.10 gear you might be able to top out at 120 on a freeway. WIth a 5.13 you might only see 80 as a top speed thats physically possible!

I don't see where you plug that in on the calculator?

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Operator24:
LOL... oh please those "calculators" aren't very good. They don't take into account all the things that matter when you regear. Its more than just making up for tire size. If you're running a really heavy tire/wheel combo, you should be thinking about that when you regear. If you're a stick or an auto, that comes into play. I'll even argue that you may consider different gears than what a calculator like that suggests depending simply on where you drive most(freeway, mountain roads, or is the rig strictly for offroad?)

If you're doing more freeway driving than anything, you'll want to stick closer to a stock gear so you have a full range of speed. A 4.10 gear you might be able to top out at 120 on a freeway. WIth a 5.13 you might only see 80 as a top speed thats physically possible!

I don't see where you plug that in on the calculator? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I hope your find your "thick gears".

Ted,

I don't follow?

"Thick gears" are already made for jeep rubicon axles (D44) as a way to get around replacing the carrier/locker/LSD when you go to a lower ratio like 4.88 or 5.13. A lot of people didn't want to remove the factor air lockers in rubicons so companies like Alloy, Yukon, and I think Superior are all making 4.88s and 5.13s that are just thicker so you can use your stock locker.

Seems to me like it would nice to regear your H3 and keep the factory electric locker in the back... a thick gear would make that possible.