Finally got my truck back. Gears installed and tires and wheels squeezed on thanks to advice from Phil. So far so good. Highly recommend the 4:88 gears as the truck drives better then new.

Looks sweet!

Great looking setup. Ugly truck color.

What size Toyo's did you go with? They don't stick out that far.

Looks great. What lift is that?

Fabtech. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Is the Fabtech lift better than the Rancho one? Or just taller? Also, is the Rancho one compatable (I think they have two versions) with the 06 H2s with the Air Supsension? And, if so, does that matter much when you are lifted 4 or 6 inches?

Yes, as I understand it the post '05 new sensors will not allow for any adjustment of ride height, when you try and lift it, the air ride ride is continuously running. I'm not exactly sure why, but know it is an issue for the Fabtech kit. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thanks for the info. I think my last question was poorly worded. What I meant was, if you have an 06 with the Air Thingy, is there an advantage to keeping the Air Thingy and going with the Rancho? Or, when you lift the H2 6" or so, does the Air Thingy loose most of its usefulness anyway?

Is that true without a lift as well? If so, is that because or durablity issues? It does help with the breakover angles when activated on a non-lifted H2, right?

Screeper,
That looks <H1>GREAT!!!</H1>

I've been waiting for you to post photos because I'm considering do the same thing.

Thanks all. I do have the air thingy and have to agree with Phil. With it engaged, the additional 2 inches puts the ass of the truck up so high it looks silly. I believe it has to do with the arc of the control arms as they are pushed further and further down. The rims are a close fit. I had to trim the rear upper control arm mount slightly and smoothed the front uper control arms slightly. I then twisted it up and about slid it sideways to check for tire contact. So far so good. I really have to thank Phil for teling me to give it a try before buying new wheels. Phil you saved me alot of money . The tires are the MTZ 38X15.50 on a twenty inch rim. They are snugged up under the truck which I kinda like, and with the zero offset should be kind to my bearings. What I really recommend are the 4:88 gears. This truck has suprised quite a few with how well it comes off the line. On the highway I am spinning 2400rpm at 70 mph. Again thanks to everyone on the forum as your pictures and tech advise has led me down the right path of modification. Now if I can just get out to Moab I can see what the truck can really do. . Also sorry about any pewter envy.

Al

PWNED!!!

Truck looks great! Congratulations!

Looks Awesome!!!

sexy! i like it buddy!

Looks great,

Tell me more about the 4:88'S. I want to upgrade..

What brand?

How Much?

Who Installed?

gas Mileage better or worse?

doc...i'm also waiting for this info...maybe we could get a two-fer???

LC

The gears are Richmond/Motiv. I got the fronts from Phil and the rear from anouther supplier. In hindsight I would have bought both from Phil but he only had the fronts when I ordered. As far as performance I am very pleased. The truck cruises at 80 with no problems(2400 rpm at 70mph). The torque feels the same or better as stock even though I am running 38's. I took the truck down to the Keys for a 200+ mile round trip with a mix of highway and two lane roads. Before the lift and gears I was getting about 11.7. After the trip I was at 11.0. I corrected the speed using a Hypertech although I found out that the unit only goes up to 4:56 so I had to play with the tire size to get it dead on. Thankfully the local police department left one of those radar carts down my street which was great for speedo correction. Any other info I can give just ask. Gears/bearing kits/labor ran me about 1000.00 install of lift was 650.00.

Al

Truck looks sweet!

What wheels are those?

DK wheels Model DK-5

I am happy with mine but as I said before it was alot of work to get them to work with the 38X15.5 inch tires. When they were on my 35" toyos I had no issues at all.

How do you like the Mickey Thompson MTZ's? How is the ride quality and noise from the tires. My MTR's are getting worn and was thinking of replacing them with the Mickey Thompson's

I like them alot. They are quiet on the highway. A little rumble from the sidebiters when loaded up in a hard turn. I would consider them very similiar to BFG MT's I have had in the past.

Damn gear shop here wanted 2500 for front and rear with front locker.



The gears are Richmond/Motiv. I got the fronts from Phil and the rear from anouther supplier. In hindsight I would have bought both from Phil but he only had the fronts when I ordered. As far as performance I am very pleased. The truck cruises at 80 with no problems(2400 rpm at 70mph). The torque feels the same or better as stock even though I am running 38's. I took the truck down to the Keys for a 200+ mile round trip with a mix of highway and two lane roads. Before the lift and gears I was getting about 11.7. After the trip I was at 11.0. I corrected the speed using a Hypertech although I found out that the unit only goes up to 4:56 so I had to play with the tire size to get it dead on. Thankfully the local police department left one of those radar carts down my street which was great for speedo correction. Any other info I can give just ask. Gears/bearing kits/labor ran me about 1000.00 install of lift was 650.00.

Al </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That's actually not too bad.

This is what I'd expect to pay;

eLocker $700
Locker install $500
Front R&P and bearing kit $400
Rear R&P and bearing kit $350
Rear install $300
Front install $300

$2550

You can most probably save some money by shopping around for the apsrt online and getting them to do the install, but I wouldn't expect to get the labor for all three items much below $1000, although they will already be pulling the front diff for the R&P, so the locker install should be a little less than usual. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

My numbers are off by one thing that I forgot which were the front R&P that Phil sold me. I needed the gears only and I want to say it was around three hundred. I also saved on labor by doing the lift at the same time as the front R&P as I think alot of the gear change labor is the fact they have to breakdown the front of the truck to get to the diff. I think you should be able to get it done without the lift for under 2000 dollars. Some see Hummer and add the surcharge. Try calling and say you need the gears changed on a 2500 series Chevy and go from there. Good luck!