Ok, well I've been told it's going to cost me $100 per light to have my lights wired which is bull****.

So where can I go to get DETAILED information about wiring my lights.

I have 4 on the roof and and 4 in the back.

All I have is the lights. No "relays" whatever the hell those are, or any other knowledge of wiring lights.

I have 3 switches I bought from Radio shack, but that's it.

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North Texas Hummer Team Member

2003 Red H2 equipped with Tough Country Heavy Duty Armor Series Front End with Winch, Rear Bumper, Brush Guard, and Roof Rack.

Ok, well I've been told it's going to cost me $100 per light to have my lights wired which is bull****.

So where can I go to get DETAILED information about wiring my lights.

I have 4 on the roof and and 4 in the back.

All I have is the lights. No "relays" whatever the hell those are, or any other knowledge of wiring lights.

I have 3 switches I bought from Radio shack, but that's it.

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North Texas Hummer Team Member

2003 Red H2 equipped with Tough Country Heavy Duty Armor Series Front End with Winch, Rear Bumper, Brush Guard, and Roof Rack.

Det- Do a search for lights and also do a Gobi Racks search(on the forum) as many wiring issues were addressed with the early Gobi rack threads. I printed out a bunch when I had mine done. 100$ a light is whack. I got my Gobi installed and wired with relays all for $375 (that's in New York by the way, you know where everything costs too much) I did not have it done by a dealer though. Just went to my local service station and gave the guy a couple of posts from the site to give him some insight as to how to do the job. If I have some time later I'll try and find the specific threads for you.

S&B Member Since 2003

Bring it on down to Cali! I can do it! All the beer we can drink and the service is free!! BIG-C



<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Detonate:
Ok, well I've been told it's going to cost me $100 per light to have my lights wired which is bull****.

So where can I go to get DETAILED information about wiring my lights.

I have 4 on the roof and and 4 in the back.

All I have is the lights. No "relays" whatever the hell those are, or any other knowledge of wiring lights.

I have 3 switches I bought from Radio shack, but that's it.

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North Texas Hummer Team Member
http://www.hummerteam.com/
2003 Red H2 equipped with Tough Country Heavy Duty Armor Series Front End with Winch, Rear Bumper, Brush Guard, and Roof Rack.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

White 03-H2-LUX

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.gstyle4u.com">
</a>

That is probably a very informative post. However, I don't know **** about wiring lights.

Which means:
I don't know what a relay is, which one to buy, or where I should look to buy one.

I know what a Positive supply from the battery is, but I don't know how I'll get it to the relay, or if I need to run one per relay, or how or what fuse to use.

I certainly don't know how to take a feed of a fuse or where that would plug into.

Not to sure about how to ground a light from the switch feed either.

So basically I can understand what you are saying, but I have no idea how to put it all together.

Know I know how my wife feels when I talk computer to her.

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North Texas Hummer Team Member

2003 Red H2 equipped with Tough Country Heavy Duty Armor Series Front End with Winch, Rear Bumper, Brush Guard, and Roof Rack.

Any decent alarm shop should be able to wire it up for you at a much better price.

I got a quote from CarToys for $375. My wife made me go around and get other estimates saying that was a bit high.

Next I tried Dealership, figuring they would be the most knowledgable and do the "best" job. They wanted $50 per hour, and said they "think" it would take them at least 1 hour per light.

Then I tried another alarm shop that quoted me $600. I asked him why he was so expensive, and he started talking about each light needing seperate wiring, relay's, etc, etc... And he kept tossing jargon at me.

So I asked him why he was so expensive compared to CarToys. He basically said CarToys must not know what they are doing, and that I should call the "Mike's Off-Road" and get a quote from an Off Road shop for comparision.

Mike's was the one that quoted me $100 per light install.

So although CarToys gave me a "resonable" quote. I'm scared to take it to them now based on everyone else's estimates. It just seems like maybe CarToy's doesn't know what they are doing.

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North Texas Hummer Team Member

2003 Red H2 equipped with Tough Country Heavy Duty Armor Series Front End with Winch, Rear Bumper, Brush Guard, and Roof Rack.

Detonate, Phil D has it all right! I did 2 or 3 post for this MID-YEAR (SUMMER) look for them I give detailed instructions on wire size, Amp draw, What acessory line to pull power from ETC.

Det,
Think of a relay as a draw-bridge if you will for power to the lights. The switch that you bought from radio shack just opens and closes the drawer bridge for the power to the lights. I am not trying to insult your intelligence with this post , only trying to help with the analogy. I believe if you can understand the purpose of each component you can do the install yourself and save the money. The hardest part is running all the wires.
Rich

'03 White Lux

damn, I should be in the light business.

the toughest part of this is running the wires the right way and mounting the switches so it looks right. 1 relay per 2 lights and 1 switch can run up to 3 relays if you get one with the right current capability.

if you don't know anything about wiring...buy some beer and invite over somebody who does.

it is very simple to do, and I am sure either Phil on the beach or any number of people would do it for nothing...hell come by my house and I would do it for ya, and take pics and do a write up so everybody else could do it for free.

The difference between Genius and Stupidity?
Genius has limits...

Detonate,

FYI, I had my Gobi lighting system and grill guard lights installed for $100 and $50, respectively, at the Tint Shop in Greenville, Texas...done in one day. Great independant owner installer. Your about one hour away!



"Doc"-sqrd

'03 Red, red grill, Gobi rack/spare tire/ladder, black chrome stuff, Warn 9500ti multimount frt/rr, Pioneer NAV system, Gobi frt/rr lights, brush guard lights, Xenarc HIDs, black chrome wheels waiting for 37" tires.

Well, I've searched around on the forum and haven't found anthing that will break it down to my level.

In the orginal post I was asking if there was already a place I could go to get this info.

I don't want anyone going out of there way making diagrams and stuff for me.

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North Texas Hummer Team Member

2003 Red H2 equipped with Tough Country Heavy Duty Armor Series Front End with Winch, Rear Bumper, Brush Guard, and Roof Rack.

Detonate,

This link may be helpful to you:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html

It is actually about upgrading headlight wiring, but is relevant to auxiliary lighting as well.

Klaus

Rare 2003 H2 with UM8 Integrated Navigation Radio
Skull & Bones Member since 2003

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by "Doc"-sqrd:
Detonate,

FYI, I had my Gobi lighting system and grill guard lights installed for $100 and $50, respectively, at the Tint Shop in Greenville, Texas...done in one day. Great independant owner installer. Your about one hour away!



"Doc"-sqrd

'03 Red, red grill, Gobi rack/spare tire/ladder, black chrome stuff, Warn 9500ti multimount frt/rr, Pioneer NAV system, Gobi frt/rr lights, brush guard lights, Xenarc HIDs, black chrome wheels waiting for 37" tires.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Do you have a name and number for these guys?

The Tint Shop seems to be a fairly common name for Tint companies, and I've had no luck in tracking them down for some reason.

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North Texas Hummer Team Member

2003 Red H2 equipped with Tough Country Heavy Duty Armor Series Front End with Winch, Rear Bumper, Brush Guard, and Roof Rack.

Hi Detonate,

Sorry for the confusion. "The Tint Shop", 8409 Wesley St, Greenville, TX 75402. Phone (903)455-TINT(8468). "Mike" is the owner.

Hope this helps.



"Doc"-sqrd

'03 Red, red grill, Gobi rack/spare tire/ladder, black chrome stuff, Warn 9500ti multimount frt/rr, Pioneer NAV system, Gobi frt/rr lights, brush guard lights, Xenarc HIDs, black chrome wheels waiting for 37" tires.

I bought a set of KC lights for my brushguard, and the kit came with everything I needed. It wasn't difficult, but I have talked to guys who just didn't have the time and had an audio shop or aftermaket retailer do the install for a lot less than some of the numbers you guys are quoting. I got my KC's from the RealWheels web site, and, like I said....EASY!

I think KC's and PIAA's come with Relays.

PIAA's were also like $200 a pair. The Maxtel's I got do not come with the relay's, but were $60 a pair.

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North Texas Hummer Team Member

2003 Red H2 equipped with Tough Country Heavy Duty Armor Series Front End with Winch, Rear Bumper, Brush Guard, and Roof Rack.

Detonate, it is nice to know that I am not the only one on this forum who is clueless about wiring. Funny thing is I can build an engine, but run lights.... nothing.

I am paying close attention to this thread as I have a Gobi Stealth and 6 PIAA's in the garage to install. Hopefully next week.

Post away please.

Black Lingenfelter Lux

I'm even more pathetic.

I was an electritian for 1 1/2 years when I got out of the Marine Corps.

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North Texas Hummer Team Member

2003 Red H2 equipped with Tough Country Heavy Duty Armor Series Front End with Winch, Rear Bumper, Brush Guard, and Roof Rack.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Detonate:
I'm even more pathetic.

I was an electritian for 1 1/2 years when I got out of the Marine Corps.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Adapt and overcome

Just had 6 lights wired yesterday by a local alarm shop, they thought it would take a half a day to wire them (the Gobi rack was already prewired) It ended up taking 1 man 9 hours but he did a great job, everything soldered pulled tucked and in harnesses etc. I went with PIAA's and the relays were included and Sandra sent me some switches that match the one for the dealer installed brush guard lights. If you want I could probably get you the unused PIAA switches, I left them with the installer but could get them back and you could have them if you need them.
It would have taken me forever to do this myself & from what I saw $375 seems abought right.

Rich

04 H2 Adventure Series

Thanks for the offer, but I already got some switches from Radio shack. It's the relays that I don't have.

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North Texas Hummer Team Member

2003 Red H2 equipped with Tough Country Heavy Duty Armor Series Front End with Winch, Rear Bumper, Brush Guard, and Roof Rack.

Navigator, You are 100% correct $350 to $400 is a bargain. When I did my GOBI STEALH rack with lights it took two men half a day!

Pick your self up a pair of these adapters at NAPA part # 728221 $2.69 each.
They worked great and allow you to hook the leads from the relays right to the battery.


Rich

04 H2 Adventure Series

Rich, Great suggestion!!

OR if you buy an Optima battery you get 2 sets of terminals.

But that would have cost me more than five bucks!

If you pull the plastic cover off of the fuse box under the front hood, you will also have to remove the rear hood snubber block support, there are several accessory wiring posts that are hot and fused to attach accessories to. This makes a cleaner install than attaching everything to the battery.

Yo D, something like this for each pair of lights.



A great source of parts for Automotive electrical is http://www.waytekwire.com

Relay:
http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L078C10366E83A11683C8722+M37+ENG



Relay Connector:
http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L078C11396D53717E1258922+M37+ENG



Loose Conectors:
http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L078C11396D53717E1258922+M37+ENG

Det,

I finished wiring the lights for my front bumper yesterday and found a couple of things at the Auto Zone that made life very easy. These were jumpers to create an extra circuit from any fuse in your fuse box. They plug into an existing fuse socket and you plug that fuse into them. They then have a socket for another fuse and a wire with a crimp connector for another circuit. This is the easiest way I have found to attach to switched power from the inside fuse box.

In the pictures below the first picture is of the entire fuse box with two of these devices installed. Look for the red wire in the upper right hand corner and the lower right hand corner. This is what they look like when they are installed. They provide for a neat solution and fuse protection for your circuit.

This second picture is a close up of the device where you can see the two fuses and the wire for the second circuit. I used one for the trigger to my fog lights in the bumper as well as the lights on the Gobi rack. This circuit is switched so when I turn the ignition off it turns off the lights. Thus preventing me from accidentally leaving them on.

David, Is the add in fuse from Autozone you used for powering a relay or is that the power directly to the lights through a switch(s)?

Steve,

I used this for the power to the relay, which then pulled power from the battery for the lights.

Nice, that's the way to go for sure. Did you also use a fuse between the battery abd the relay contact for the power to the lights?

I always fuse both the power to the relay and to whatever device the relay is controlling.

Since my truck is so old, I added a separate 40 amp fuse block for auxilery items under the hood, simular to the set up on late model cars and trucks. Makes it easy to add lights and what not.

Steve, I agree to be as safe as possible in wiring but I think the 2 fuses are redundant. The only time the fuse to the lights will be hot is if the fuse from the battery is hot. If there is a short anywhere the fuse to the battery will fail as it should.

Not arguing with your wiring, its just to me it doesn't seem necessary to add the second fuse in the circuit.

Trust me when I tell you not to do it any other way. Without a fuse on each device, a short will likely result in a fire. You do the math .....

$.25 fuse, 50k H2 .....

Steve,

I went Paragons way and only used a fuse between the battery and the relay. The current has to come through that fuse to reach a shorted wire to the lights. But I may be wrong .

Your fine, to clarify, I like to use 2 fuses, one for the power that turns thr relay on and off, maybe a 2 amp or less fuse. And one on the load that he relay controls, IE lights or whatever, with a fuse rated to match the load + a taste.

My aux fuse block comes off the battery and is fed via a Fusable link with a 40 amp fuse to an 8ga wire to the block. I only use those fuses for the lights or whatever. The relays are fused from the main fues panel auxillerys, either on all the time or just when the key is on, depending on the device.

I also like to use a lot of the plastic like corregated wire cover on everything.

Here is some great shots of Crash's work, he does it right! He swapped a Chevy 4.3 v6 into his 83 Toyota truck, and had to to build a custom wiring harness for it.