Has anyone ever tinkered with their rock rails?

I was checking them out today and though sturdy, the cross sections appear they might catch.

I was thinking that perhaps you could fabricate some extra protection on the bottom and extend them out a little, and the protrusion could negate the need for a step.

Any thoughts..

Has anyone ever tinkered with their rock rails?

I was checking them out today and though sturdy, the cross sections appear they might catch.

I was thinking that perhaps you could fabricate some extra protection on the bottom and extend them out a little, and the protrusion could negate the need for a step.

Any thoughts..

Yes, they do "catch". But the frame is what you need to worry about.

The stock rails are great for sliding over things, but side protection is seriously lacking.

That damn rock is why I built these bad boys.

Drty, I like those. Do you have any more pics?

Seth, thanks for the link. I will be researching it and hopefully attempting.

While I am under there, is there any harm in adding piping and/or steel plating to the rest of the undercarriage. If not, what things should I leave exposed for repair and maint. (manifold etc..) or should I make a removable "cage" supported by structural piping.

I just went out for a lil' look-see and my underbody is different with the fabtech arm things and my pumpkin looks so vunerable. I want something.

Ken, already talked to Phil about his "UBP" and apparently- there is such a thing. I know, I am a dork.

I will be altering my rails though.

Just weld some of these underneath and you can "roll" right over the rocks.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Just weld some of these underneath and you can "roll" right over the rocks.

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hey don't laugh! Para, I had the same idea for a while! But I was thinking of using some heavy-duty pallet jack wheels. I think it's a grand idea to be able to use any wheel to "roll" the truck over any sticking points.

But I would mount it around the rear diff first, which to me is the biggest trouble spot. Any ideas??

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2Finally:
Hey don't laugh! Para, I had the same idea for a while! But I was thinking of using some heavy-duty pallet jack wheels. I think it's a grand idea to be able to use any wheel to "roll" the truck over any sticking points.

But I would mount it around the rear diff first, which to me is the biggest trouble spot. Any ideas?? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>You'll sacrifice ground clearance with most attempts.

You need a "hopper" at the diff. A lever whose resting position is just forward of the diff and about diff wide that would rotate just so slightly and pick the diff up over the obstacle. Kind of a moving skid plate.

Put collars on the axle housings on either side of the diff with an attachment point on each. It works like a swing and would be spring loaded at one of the collars so that it would stay in the "home" position.

How's that for a quick jab at a solution.

Well, I don't see an aftermarket kit for H2 under body protection. So I guess I will have to make something unless someone knows any different.

I am worried about the rear diff too H. I think the wheel thing is a great idea, however, it is another movable component to worry about.

I'm thinking something like the undershield (just posterior to the skid plate) but with a steel panel veneer to slide on. Because if you just add another undershield you get that same 'catch' problem. The pumpkin can just have a two bar frame and a steel panel with hinges for access if needed.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
How's that for a quick jab at a solution. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Para, frankly I'm dissapointed. Where's the diagram? Where's the mass/velocity ratio calculations? Where's the parts numbers needed???

You're slacking off buddy Now go finish the ptototype and call me!

CP, you're aware of the replacement heavy-duty UCP from Rubberduck? It's 2 pieces, front and rear. Also, I belive Neil (H20) made an even better version. None protects the rear diff, though as often as I've slammed it on rocks, it seemed plenty tough.

Para, why must it rotate? I was thinking more like what CP described -- a stationary "ramp" with the pallet wheels in them, to glide-over and pick-up the rear diff over the rock (with a little momemtum).

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2Finally:
Para, why must it rotate? I was thinking more like what CP described -- a stationary "ramp" with the pallet wheels in them, to glide-over and pick-up the rear diff over the rock (with a little momemtum). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Well, my first reaction would be durability. Having some types of small wheels mean that there would be some small axles. Conceiveably, half the weight of the truck could come to rest on one of the wheels. Also, ground rock and debri would gather up and around the wheel.

My reasoning behind something moving was the same idea as the wheel. To reduce friction. The idea that was in my head had a "foot" that was flat on bottom but rounded up to vertical. When contacting the rock the movement would allow frictionless travel over the rock until the "plate" hit a stop. Then it acts as an ordinary skid plate and will drag the rest of the way. But this will help keep the rear end from hanging up and probably further help you to high-center on the rear end.

In my rambling thoughts about our UCP I often wonder if the best solution would not be a network of front-to-back I-Beam shaped pieces tied together horizontally for twisting stability. I don't know of any stock metal that could be used, though. It would have to be some custom extrusion, I would guess.

The pieces could be bolted together so that when you destroy one or two sections, you could easily buy the individual lengths and replace only what was need. Obviously, once it was damaged, there wouldn't be any straightening it or anything.

Actually, with further thought it could be a modular thing and applicable to any vehicle

If I had those wheels, how would I stop?

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
Well, I don't see an aftermarket kit for H2 under body protection. So I guess I will have to make something unless someone knows any different.

I am worried about the rear diff too H. I think the wheel thing is a great idea, however, it is another movable component to worry about.

I'm thinking something like the undershield (just posterior to the skid plate) but with a steel panel veneer to slide on. Because if you just add another undershield you get that same 'catch' problem. The pumpkin can just have a two bar frame and a steel panel with hinges for access if needed. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

How about the "scary duck"? Tell him "Harley Dave" sent you...

I have the Rubberduck UCP and no problem. I have in mind to weld plain steel on the UCP and help the H2 to slide, but if during the slide the H2 turn on !
And add other weight !!!!

The scary duck stuff is cool but won't work with my lift.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
The scary duck stuff is cool but won't work with my lift. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I think you really only have one option.

CUSTOM!

I like Dirty's rock rails. The also provide enough of a "lip" to help you in the truck. You could always carry a step stool and use that...

Tim, I know. It will be fun though. I am taking measurements and figuring out what will work.

I love drty's rock rails, and I was hoping that I could negate the need for a step in extending them.

But I could only do it about an inch unless I want to start cutting- and that's not going to happen. The extension should protrude it enough for the ball of a foot or something.

I am also looking into creating something to extend off the rails to protect the torsion bars.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
The scary duck stuff is cool but won't work with my lift. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Why not? I believe they mount to the frame rails...Is it because of the Fabtech drop member for the torsion bars?

Leave the part that mounts to the frame and the inner rail alone. Cut the outer rail off at the horizontal mounts. Use some plate steel to extend the tabs so that the outer rail is sticking out the proper amount. Also add some extra tabs for extra support.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GMPartsGuy:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
The scary duck stuff is cool but won't work with my lift. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Why not? I believe they mount to the frame rails...Is it because of the Fabtech drop member for the torsion bars? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The cross member and the torsion bars. But I don't now the dimensions of the Rubber duck but the picture you posted looks like it would not work under here.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Leave the part that mounts to the frame and the inner rail alone. Cut the outer rail off at the horizontal mounts. Use some plate steel to extend the tabs so that the outer rail is sticking out the proper amount. Also add some extra tabs for extra support. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That would work too, but I would have to take it off anyway and the spacers would be quick, even and easy.

I have to use one for each bolt though because the driver's side has a wire and the fuel filter box (I think).

Get a tan on those knees.

Hey, I went tanning yesterday.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Leave the part that mounts to the frame and the inner rail alone. Cut the outer rail off at the horizontal mounts. Use some plate steel to extend the tabs so that the outer rail is sticking out the proper amount. Also add some extra tabs for extra support. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>That would work too, but I would have to take it off anyway and the spacers would be quick, even and easy.

I have to use one for each bolt though because the driver's side has a wire and the fuel filter box (I think). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I am not fond of the blocks idea. Can't pinpoint why off the top of my head. Just doesn't "feel" right.

Another idea is to cut the outer rails off from the tabs and get some custom outer rails made up by a metal shop. You could then bolt them back to the tabs using the holes the steps bolt to.

You just don't like it because I came up with it.

I am just feeling things out right now. Ken was mentioning extending the plating that I want on the underside, but I'm not fond of it.

We'll see. I also want to extend them on the posterior end to the fender flare.

Right chia -

Can you take some more pics of the torsion bar setup. I remember a few of Phil's, but take some from some different views to take a look at a way to protect that area.

I have something brewing in my head, besides the streptococci I am getting from Heidi, that's similar to protection on an old military vehicle. It would be like a box frame setup.

Okay but don't joke my knees again.

The problem is, as Ken explained to me that anything directly under the bars would not be good because when they move down, it will bend and break them.

Anything under them too low would cancel out the lift.

.

..

...

...........

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

**coughcough**attentionwhore**coughcough**