Just got back from getting an alignment and the Fabtech tierod on the PS is slightly bent.

CP did it.

It looks as though nothing else is messed. Whew...

So, since they were able to align it spot-on, should I replace it?

Damn, the tierod did bend. Didn't look like it was the tierod that was bent. Good thing it was a Fabtech, would have really hated to have a stock one break right there if front of all those guys. Glad everything else was OK.

Leave it to Bompy Dompy to bend a HD tie rod.

Women

I just looked and don't think we even have any pics of the spot it happened.

There will be no video, but I will tell you the tire was flapping around like a doll in a shark's mouth. Besides, we wouldn't want all the publicity that comes with being a superstar, Alec.

So should we replace it? From a metalurgical standpoint, metal generally gets stronger when it's bent, right? But would it snap easier?

You can't tell unless you turn the rod, then the rod moves in an eliptical arc.

Big Bent Nasty. Sorry to hear it Ken.

x 2
Bummer it happened but Better Bent than Broke!

What kind of compensating did the alignment guys have to do to make it align with one side bent? I would replace it as I think you will have wear issues because of the compensating, but I really dont know what I am talking about, I think?

Who would know more about compensating then an H2 owner?

The front PS tire got wedged against a 3' ledge at left full lock while the rear tires were bound against a rock. Any movement put force against the rod.

The ball joint isn't bent, if that's what you men, Phil. When turning the tierod, you can see it move up and down in an elliptical motion.

I'm thinking I should just replace it.

Know anywhere I can get one?

KenP,

When I dropped my SUT off Monday for the face lift. That was one question the shop owner had for me. We discussed FabTech's beefier (if it's a word?) parts & the only weak link was the 7/16" threaded end where the tie rods connect. He said that this would still create a problem & would not make the truck indestructable since something always has to give.

The only solution was to change front ends or modify the OEM parts...I'm not to keen on changing the front end of a truck with 3K miles on it, so I may try to modify in some fashion. The only remedy I can come up with is manufacture parts & cut out the weak items. Since I have these capabilities at hand I will probablly opt for this route. I'll keep you up dated over the next few weeks.

My suggestion is replace the bent tie rod or threaded piece...which ever it is. Just my POV... Good luck with it!

LC

Yeah, I would think it's the joint and not the "rod" part itself. It's hard to imagine something even like the centerlink not going before bending those rods.

I wasn't up there when it happened but from where it happened it would seem that the PS front tire plowed a little into a rock while trying to move forward. I would think that joint is slightly fubared because it was even suspect when we were looking at it as it appeared to be at more of an angle than the DS.

Alec, yes.

But I'm still going to call them. The worst that can happen is I get told "No".

The OUTER tie rod is what is the problem on our trucks. The stock one is about 1/4" in dia. and will bend if blown on hard enough. The Fabtech tie rod ends replace this with hardened steel that seems to be at least 1 inch in diameter.

As far as the threaded piece you are referring to, you would have to manufacture a complete centerlink to replace something that, to this point, is not known to be prone to failure. The threads just simply hold it butt up against the center link and that pressure is exerted laterally through that butt.

I didn't take you for an optimist

very agreed

Para,

Exactly what I was talking about...the guy at the four wheel drive shop was concerned with the 7/16" fitting the FabTech tie rod screws into. He thinks this will become a problem after he installs my lift kit. He had 3-4 GMC trucks in replacing this exact item when I was there.

I'm thinking of cutting the 7/16" threaded piece off an manufacture a large piece I can drill & tap 5/8" or better...weld up or better yet sleeve the FabTech tie rod ends or manufacture new ones from B-7 or something with a little more strength. I haven't decided anything final yet. But if KenP finds that this was his problem it will confirm what my shop dude was concerned with. Fabing up a centerlink shouldn't be a problem, it would be cheaper than replacing the whole front end.

I'm just looking for a cure...then something else will become the weak link / problem.

Like I said before, just my POV...and IF KenP finds out that this is the culprit, I'll be modifying to remedy this from occuring to my rig.

LC

DOes anyone have a pic of a fabtech tie rod?
Ken, I would straighten it and reinforce it . I'd like to see one , to see where the weakest point is. Thanks , Doug

http://www.trailduty.com/products/fabtech/index.html

Gawd! It wasn't that bad. I'm a good girl, promise.

It was totally my fault though. It was on 5 the nightmare day and I was talking to these guys on the side of the trail as we started moving again saying bye- thanks etc.. I did not look for my line going up a ledge with these huge bolders on either side.

Anyway, it was at a turn and I should have straightened out. I couldn't see the clearance for the one on the left and I was right against it. Kept trying to turn and gassing forward. Then Kenny got in and tried.

If it were a stock one it would have snapped like a twig.

I think we should keep the slightly bent one as a spare and just get a new one.

PhilD,

One could manufacture a nut approx. 3-4 inches long, that would function as the original nut. Then at the same time it could be counter bored to fit over the casted part about 2-3 inches. That would strengthen it big time...I'm not sure about the inner one, haven't really looked at it.

Worst part of it is; for everything you strengthen something else is gonna give out...

LC

CP, you are a good girl and we all appreciated your showing us we should go wide to the left before coming to the ledge

I guess I'll get my turn when the SUT gets out of the shop next week.

Until then...I can't seem to fit this damn Bridgeport CNC mill in the trunk with the lid shut... any suggestions. I always like being prepared

Besides, after yours is lifted you'll find plenty of things to reinforce <span class="ev_code_RED">Like what now? </span>

Some good underbody protection is a good idea. <span class="ev_code_RED">Hint...Hint...Now what do I need to buy??? Looks like this will be a fab-it-ur-self project? Since even the GREAT TDuty dude is having difficulties hunting this down...Any luck yet?</span>

The Fabtech diff skid plate can be bent easily and as it's attached to the diff, so you don't want to be hitting anything with it anyway. The front lower control arm brackets are prime to get bent up. <span class="ev_code_RED">Can these be beefed up via more fabing, plate & welding?</span> The sway bar could do with being 2" wider. <span class="ev_code_RED">Can do in the sheen shop...</span>

There will be plenty of things that will get broken to spend your time on <span class="ev_code_RED">Like I need something else to work on now!!!</span> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks again for all of your help...

"The Shop" is doing all of the work now. They are also affiliated with "Critter Getters". You should see their 130K rig they just built for a dude in Corpus...I'll get photos when I return home. Bad A$$ swap buggy that can draft 6' of water!!!

LC

I think it just goes to show that whether your in a rock buggy, M1 Abrams, or Hummer things will break off road. I too like the fact that it could limp home. And keeping the slightly bent one for a spare is probably a good idea. Good info...

You can't tell unless you turn the rod, then the rod moves in an eliptical arc. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Well, I guess we were wrong about the center link! The old saying about finding its the thing you would least expect rigs true again. Is fabtech going to replace it under warranty?

I got an estimate from Dent wizzard on my door only $229.00. I'l be repairing the trail damage as well ken!

Ken, yes it would be worth a try by calling them. They may not consider the bent tie rod as normal "wear". Never hurts to call in a case like this.

If I were them and knew the exposure of this on the site, it would be good business to just replace it for ya'.

Good luck and let us know.





But I'm still going to call them. The worst that can happen is I get told "No". </div></BLOCKQUOTE>