I'm going to go ahead and start this thread on the installation since I have completed a good portion of it. So far it has been very easy and straightforward. I'll make some <span class="ev_code_RED">notations</span> in the instructions below as well as point out a couple of things using pictures from the installation instructions.



PARTS LIST

PART NO.----QUANTITY---- DESCRIPTION

69464..........1.........Bumper, H2
69347..........1.........Closure Shield, RH
69348..........1.........Closure Shield, LH
69609..........1.........Mounting Bracket, Outer
69196..........1.........Mounting Bracket, Inner
69119..........1.........Tow Loop Bracket, RH
69120..........1.........Tow Loop Bracket, LH
69121..........1.........License Bracket

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

BOLT SIZE TORQUE

3/8 inch 30 lb. ft. (40.7 N-m)
7/16 inch 50 lb. ft. (67.8 N-m)
½ inch 75 lb. ft. (101.7 N-m)
12mm 58 lb. ft. (78.7 N-m)

1. Open hood and remove light sockets from fog lights<span class="ev_code_RED"> (they are referring to the Daytime Running Lights, you should be able to do all of this without opening your hood)</span>. Squeeze and push out the metal clips that retain the lower center grille piece<span class="ev_code_RED">(A)</span><span class="ev_code_RED"> (you really don't have to do this, just pull on it and it will pop off)</span>. Close hood to actually remove this grille. (Do not remove the main chrome grille<span class="ev_code_RED">(B)</span>).

2. Pry up and remove the two plastic hole plugs<span class="ev_code_RED">(C)</span> from the top of the bumper plastic<span class="ev_code_RED"> (be careful with these as you will put them back and you can easily tear the edge getting them off)</span>. These give access to the top two bumper bolts. Remove these two upper bolts and the two lower bolts<span class="ev_code_RED">(these bolts all take 18mm socket)</span> at the bottom edge of the bumper<span class="ev_code_RED">(D)</span>. Remove the bumper assembly.

3. Remove the two tow loops and also the receiver bracket<span class="ev_code_RED">(E)</span> from the center of the front cross member<span class="ev_code_RED">(all of these take 18mm socket)</span>.

4. Install the RH<span class="ev_code_RED">(F)</span> and LH<span class="ev_code_RED">(G)</span> Frame Extensions. The RH piece has the welded-on control box bracket as shown in Photo 1. Use 1/2 x 1-1/2 bolts<span class="ev_code_RED">(these require 3/4 inch socket)</span>, lock washers and nuts. Install the factory tow loops onto the Frame Extensions with the factory bolts at the rear holes only. Leave out the front bolts and leave the rear bolts loose at this time, allowing the tow loop to pivot downward. (See step 16).

5. Match drill (7/16”) the vehicle frame horns to the holes<span class="ev_code_RED">(H)</span> provided in the upper tabs of the Frame extensions. Install 7/16 x 1-1/4 bolts<span class="ev_code_RED">(these take 5/8 inch socket for the bolt heads and a 11/16 inch socket for the nuts )</span>, lock washers and nuts. Tighten all bolts (except tow loops) securely at this point.



1. Install the inner section<span class="ev_code_RED">(I)</span> of the Winch Mounting Bracket to the cross member. Tighten the 4 factory bolts evenly while making sure both angled surfaces are lying down flush at the same time. Tighten securely.

2. Install the outer front section<span class="ev_code_RED">(J)</span> of the Winch Mounting Bracket as shown in Photo 2. Tighten only finger tight until directed later.

3. Install the fairlead bolts (7/16 x 1-1/4) from the inside out, prior to installing winch.

4. Install the control box onto the RH Frame Extension bracket with the wiring to the rear near the vehicle body. See Photo 3. Install the black ground (-) cable and the ground lead from the control box to the bottom of the winch motor before dropping the winch into place. Now install the winch and tighten securely.

5. Make the electrical connections to the winch motor terminals as described in the winch installation instructions. Route the long power cables and the remote control harness along the back edge of the inner Winch Mounting Bracket near the brake line. Near the steering gear, route the long power cables up to the battery vicinity. Tie wrap the cables and harness to the brake line and be sure that they are secured away from sharp edges and moving parts.

6. The Warn Bumper requires some sub assembly work before it is ready for installation. First, go to the original factory bumper and remove the upper plastic section with lights from the main metal section. Install the plastic section onto the Warn Bumper with the original factory fasteners<span class="ev_code_RED">(these take 13mm socket)</span>. Refer to Photo 4 showing the inside view of the bumper. Install the metal Closure Shields as shown, sharing two factory bolts on each side.

7. Install the Remote Control Socket onto the top of the bumper using the holes provided. The lanyard on the cap should be oriented toward the outboard side so that the slot is visible to the front when the cap is removed.

8. Install the Warn Bumper assembly onto the vehicle. Secure it to the frame using the original bolts and tighten securely.

9. Install the Fairlead over the protruding bolts. If a front license plate is needed, install the bracket provided between the fairlead and the bumper, and then tighten the fairlead bolts securely.

10. Now, from underneath the vehicle, tighten the five nuts on the round head bolts that connect the two mounting plate sections together.

11. Working through the tow loop area with the tow loops pivoted down for access, tighten the frame extension tab to mounting plate nuts securely. Now install the front tow loop fasteners and tighten all six securely.

12. Connect the remote control harness leads together, matching the color-coded wires.

13. Reconnect the fog light sockets. Reinstall the hole plugs and the small plastic grille.

14. Make the electrical power lead connections to the side terminal battery using the special brass fasteners provided. Push out the original factory fastener from the each battery cable and replace with the brass fastener. The winch lead is then connected using the brass hex bolt. The other bolts and nuts furnished are not used in this application.

15. Install hook onto the winch wire rope. Refer to the winch installation instructions and test the clutch operation and the “power in” and “power out” functions.

I'm going to go ahead and start this thread on the installation since I have completed a good portion of it. So far it has been very easy and straightforward. I'll make some <span class="ev_code_RED">notations</span> in the instructions below as well as point out a couple of things using pictures from the installation instructions.



PARTS LIST

PART NO.----QUANTITY---- DESCRIPTION

69464..........1.........Bumper, H2
69347..........1.........Closure Shield, RH
69348..........1.........Closure Shield, LH
69609..........1.........Mounting Bracket, Outer
69196..........1.........Mounting Bracket, Inner
69119..........1.........Tow Loop Bracket, RH
69120..........1.........Tow Loop Bracket, LH
69121..........1.........License Bracket

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

BOLT SIZE TORQUE

3/8 inch 30 lb. ft. (40.7 N-m)
7/16 inch 50 lb. ft. (67.8 N-m)
½ inch 75 lb. ft. (101.7 N-m)
12mm 58 lb. ft. (78.7 N-m)

1. Open hood and remove light sockets from fog lights<span class="ev_code_RED"> (they are referring to the Daytime Running Lights, you should be able to do all of this without opening your hood)</span>. Squeeze and push out the metal clips that retain the lower center grille piece<span class="ev_code_RED">(A)</span><span class="ev_code_RED"> (you really don't have to do this, just pull on it and it will pop off)</span>. Close hood to actually remove this grille. (Do not remove the main chrome grille<span class="ev_code_RED">(B)</span>).

2. Pry up and remove the two plastic hole plugs<span class="ev_code_RED">(C)</span> from the top of the bumper plastic<span class="ev_code_RED"> (be careful with these as you will put them back and you can easily tear the edge getting them off)</span>. These give access to the top two bumper bolts. Remove these two upper bolts and the two lower bolts<span class="ev_code_RED">(these bolts all take 18mm socket)</span> at the bottom edge of the bumper<span class="ev_code_RED">(D)</span>. Remove the bumper assembly.

3. Remove the two tow loops and also the receiver bracket<span class="ev_code_RED">(E)</span> from the center of the front cross member<span class="ev_code_RED">(all of these take 18mm socket)</span>.

4. Install the RH<span class="ev_code_RED">(F)</span> and LH<span class="ev_code_RED">(G)</span> Frame Extensions. The RH piece has the welded-on control box bracket as shown in Photo 1. Use 1/2 x 1-1/2 bolts<span class="ev_code_RED">(these require 3/4 inch socket)</span>, lock washers and nuts. Install the factory tow loops onto the Frame Extensions with the factory bolts at the rear holes only. Leave out the front bolts and leave the rear bolts loose at this time, allowing the tow loop to pivot downward. (See step 16).

5. Match drill (7/16”) the vehicle frame horns to the holes<span class="ev_code_RED">(H)</span> provided in the upper tabs of the Frame extensions. Install 7/16 x 1-1/4 bolts<span class="ev_code_RED">(these take 5/8 inch socket for the bolt heads and a 11/16 inch socket for the nuts )</span>, lock washers and nuts. Tighten all bolts (except tow loops) securely at this point.



1. Install the inner section<span class="ev_code_RED">(I)</span> of the Winch Mounting Bracket to the cross member. Tighten the 4 factory bolts evenly while making sure both angled surfaces are lying down flush at the same time. Tighten securely.

2. Install the outer front section<span class="ev_code_RED">(J)</span> of the Winch Mounting Bracket as shown in Photo 2. Tighten only finger tight until directed later.

3. Install the fairlead bolts (7/16 x 1-1/4) from the inside out, prior to installing winch.

4. Install the control box onto the RH Frame Extension bracket with the wiring to the rear near the vehicle body. See Photo 3. Install the black ground (-) cable and the ground lead from the control box to the bottom of the winch motor before dropping the winch into place. Now install the winch and tighten securely.

5. Make the electrical connections to the winch motor terminals as described in the winch installation instructions. Route the long power cables and the remote control harness along the back edge of the inner Winch Mounting Bracket near the brake line. Near the steering gear, route the long power cables up to the battery vicinity. Tie wrap the cables and harness to the brake line and be sure that they are secured away from sharp edges and moving parts.

6. The Warn Bumper requires some sub assembly work before it is ready for installation. First, go to the original factory bumper and remove the upper plastic section with lights from the main metal section. Install the plastic section onto the Warn Bumper with the original factory fasteners<span class="ev_code_RED">(these take 13mm socket)</span>. Refer to Photo 4 showing the inside view of the bumper. Install the metal Closure Shields as shown, sharing two factory bolts on each side.

7. Install the Remote Control Socket onto the top of the bumper using the holes provided. The lanyard on the cap should be oriented toward the outboard side so that the slot is visible to the front when the cap is removed.

8. Install the Warn Bumper assembly onto the vehicle. Secure it to the frame using the original bolts and tighten securely.

9. Install the Fairlead over the protruding bolts. If a front license plate is needed, install the bracket provided between the fairlead and the bumper, and then tighten the fairlead bolts securely.

10. Now, from underneath the vehicle, tighten the five nuts on the round head bolts that connect the two mounting plate sections together.

11. Working through the tow loop area with the tow loops pivoted down for access, tighten the frame extension tab to mounting plate nuts securely. Now install the front tow loop fasteners and tighten all six securely.

12. Connect the remote control harness leads together, matching the color-coded wires.

13. Reconnect the fog light sockets. Reinstall the hole plugs and the small plastic grille.

14. Make the electrical power lead connections to the side terminal battery using the special brass fasteners provided. Push out the original factory fastener from the each battery cable and replace with the brass fastener. The winch lead is then connected using the brass hex bolt. The other bolts and nuts furnished are not used in this application.

15. Install hook onto the winch wire rope. Refer to the winch installation instructions and test the clutch operation and the “power in” and “power out” functions.

I'm going to go ahead and start this thread on the installation since I have completed a good portion of it. So far it has been very easy and straightforward. I'll make some <span class="ev_code_RED">notations</span> in the instructions below as well as point out a couple of things using pictures from the installation instructions.



PARTS LIST

PART NO.----QUANTITY---- DESCRIPTION

69464..........1.........Bumper, H2
69347..........1.........Closure Shield, RH
69348..........1.........Closure Shield, LH
69609..........1.........Mounting Bracket, Outer
69196..........1.........Mounting Bracket, Inner
69119..........1.........Tow Loop Bracket, RH
69120..........1.........Tow Loop Bracket, LH
69121..........1.........License Bracket

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

BOLT SIZE TORQUE

3/8 inch 30 lb. ft. (40.7 N-m)
7/16 inch 50 lb. ft. (67.8 N-m)
½ inch 75 lb. ft. (101.7 N-m)
12mm 58 lb. ft. (78.7 N-m)

1. Open hood and remove light sockets from fog lights<span class="ev_code_RED"> (they are referring to the Daytime Running Lights, you should be able to do all of this without opening your hood)</span>. Squeeze and push out the metal clips that retain the lower center grille piece<span class="ev_code_RED">(A)</span><span class="ev_code_RED"> (you really don't have to do this, just pull on it and it will pop off)</span>. Close hood to actually remove this grille. (Do not remove the main chrome grille<span class="ev_code_RED">(B)</span>).

2. Pry up and remove the two plastic hole plugs<span class="ev_code_RED">(C)</span> from the top of the bumper plastic<span class="ev_code_RED"> (be careful with these as you will put them back and you can easily tear the edge getting them off)</span>. These give access to the top two bumper bolts. Remove these two upper bolts and the two lower bolts<span class="ev_code_RED">(these bolts all take 18mm socket)</span> at the bottom edge of the bumper<span class="ev_code_RED">(D)</span>. Remove the bumper assembly.

3. Remove the two tow loops and also the receiver bracket<span class="ev_code_RED">(E)</span> from the center of the front cross member<span class="ev_code_RED">(all of these take 18mm socket)</span>.

4. Install the RH<span class="ev_code_RED">(F)</span> and LH<span class="ev_code_RED">(G)</span> Frame Extensions. The RH piece has the welded-on control box bracket as shown in Photo 1. Use 1/2 x 1-1/2 bolts<span class="ev_code_RED">(these require 3/4 inch socket)</span>, lock washers and nuts. Install the factory tow loops onto the Frame Extensions with the factory bolts at the rear holes only. Leave out the front bolts and leave the rear bolts loose at this time, allowing the tow loop to pivot downward. (See step 16).

5. Match drill (7/16”) the vehicle frame horns to the holes<span class="ev_code_RED">(H)</span> provided in the upper tabs of the Frame extensions. Install 7/16 x 1-1/4 bolts<span class="ev_code_RED">(these take 5/8 inch socket for the bolt heads and a 11/16 inch socket for the nuts )</span>, lock washers and nuts. Tighten all bolts (except tow loops) securely at this point.



1. Install the inner section<span class="ev_code_RED">(I)</span> of the Winch Mounting Bracket to the cross member. Tighten the 4 factory bolts evenly while making sure both angled surfaces are lying down flush at the same time. Tighten securely.

2. Install the outer front section<span class="ev_code_RED">(J)</span> of the Winch Mounting Bracket as shown in Photo 2. Tighten only finger tight until directed later.

3. Install the fairlead bolts (7/16 x 1-1/4) from the inside out, prior to installing winch.

4. Install the control box onto the RH Frame Extension bracket with the wiring to the rear near the vehicle body. See Photo 3. Install the black ground (-) cable and the ground lead from the control box to the bottom of the winch motor before dropping the winch into place. Now install the winch and tighten securely.

5. Make the electrical connections to the winch motor terminals as described in the winch installation instructions. Route the long power cables and the remote control harness along the back edge of the inner Winch Mounting Bracket near the brake line. Near the steering gear, route the long power cables up to the battery vicinity. Tie wrap the cables and harness to the brake line and be sure that they are secured away from sharp edges and moving parts.

6. The Warn Bumper requires some sub assembly work before it is ready for installation. First, go to the original factory bumper and remove the upper plastic section with lights from the main metal section. Install the plastic section onto the Warn Bumper with the original factory fasteners<span class="ev_code_RED">(these take 13mm socket)</span>. Refer to Photo 4 showing the inside view of the bumper. Install the metal Closure Shields as shown, sharing two factory bolts on each side.

7. Install the Remote Control Socket onto the top of the bumper using the holes provided. The lanyard on the cap should be oriented toward the outboard side so that the slot is visible to the front when the cap is removed.

8. Install the Warn Bumper assembly onto the vehicle. Secure it to the frame using the original bolts and tighten securely.

9. Install the Fairlead over the protruding bolts. If a front license plate is needed, install the bracket provided between the fairlead and the bumper, and then tighten the fairlead bolts securely.

10. Now, from underneath the vehicle, tighten the five nuts on the round head bolts that connect the two mounting plate sections together.

11. Working through the tow loop area with the tow loops pivoted down for access, tighten the frame extension tab to mounting plate nuts securely. Now install the front tow loop fasteners and tighten all six securely.

12. Connect the remote control harness leads together, matching the color-coded wires.

13. Reconnect the fog light sockets. Reinstall the hole plugs and the small plastic grille.

14. Make the electrical power lead connections to the side terminal battery using the special brass fasteners provided. Push out the original factory fastener from the each battery cable and replace with the brass fastener. The winch lead is then connected using the brass hex bolt. The other bolts and nuts furnished are not used in this application.

15. Install hook onto the winch wire rope. Refer to the winch installation instructions and test the clutch operation and the “power in” and “power out” functions.

_

-

Photo 1 from instructions

Photo 2 from instructions

You're killing me here. UPS just dropped off my winch. Sat. morning is when I'm jumping into this project. It looks fairly easy, excpet I suck at electrical stuff.
How long do you think to complete?

Have you had any issues so far?

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by timgco:
You're killing me here. UPS just dropped off my winch. Sat. morning is when I'm jumping into this project. It looks fairly easy, excpet I suck at electrical stuff.
How long do you think to complete?

Have you had any issues so far? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>My winch came so late, I haven't done anything with that. I stopped at number 3 of the second section except that I put the upper plastic section onto the top of the new Warn bumper and had to re-mount my Cibie Tangos onto the Warn bumper also.

No issues so far except that they have bolts that require a 5/8" socket that mates to nuts that require a 11/16" socket, but I am picky about crap like that.

It really has been easy so far and the electrical looks to be idiot-proof. The wires are labeled properly and you wire directly to the battery.

This is really an easy one person job, I am just still slow these days due to the illness and got some help from a buddy today. But I betting that one person(healthy) can easily complete it in 3-4 hours at most.

I didn't have a new 7/16" drill bit and had to run to the hardware store because my old one was dull and the frame you drill through is pretty thick.

I am extremely pleased so far and expect to wrap it up fairly easily tomorrow and finish out my notations and what not.

check your PM.

Para,

Thanks for the details in the 'structions...it will help us others out very much. Good luck with the winch.

Also, in the picture above, you didn't give your dog a part number? Did he come with the kit? I'm sure he was vital in helping you get that thing mounted.

Hey guys I heard there might be an issue with the pos battery cable length being too short and the control box mtg bolts are backwards from the picture. Let me know if I can help. I know Warn will take care of any short comings.
Paragon,Timgco I have pm,d my cell # if you run into any problems.

Did you take off your Warn light bar and go to stock lights?

Drilling??? YUCK!!!!!

Should have waited a little bit longer. 8 mounting points with NO drilling. Oh yeah, and a 12K winch.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Patriot:
Did you take off your Warn light bar and go to stock lights? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Nope, keeping the light bar on as well. The reason the two are listed as not compatible is because when you open the hood all of the way, the light bar will hit the top of the winch bumper. I simply plan on shortening the opening of the hood to keep this from happening. I'll post what I end up doing for this fix.

I haven't done anything else on it so far, I've had a medical day so far. I had an appointment with my neurologist at 7:30am and when I got back from that we took my 3 year old daughter to the doc because she was stung by 3 red wasps and one got her on the eyelid. Bad deal, she needs a good cut-man. I am going to watch a little football now and will finish the install this afternoon.

And Drty, drilling = good, because of where you are making the additional mounting points. I had to drill into the bumper anyway to mount my Cibie Tangos.

How much does the new winch and bumper weigh? How about a before and after measurement to see how much the front end sets down after the additional weight is added. If the H2 loses another inch of ground clearance on the front thats not good.

Total weight bumper and winch is about 185#.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by PARAGON:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Patriot:
Did you take off your Warn light bar and go to stock lights? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Nope, keeping the light bar on as well. The reason the two are listed as not compatible is because when you open the hood all of the way, the light bar will hit the top of the winch bumper. I simply plan on shortening the opening of the hood to keep this from happening. I'll post what I end up doing for this fix.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The reaon I asked is because I didn't see it on the H2 in the pictures posted above???

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Fever:
Hey guys I heard there might be an issue with the pos battery cable length being too short and the control box mtg bolts are backwards from the picture. Let me know if I can help. I know Warn will take care of any short comings.
Paragon,Timgco I have pm,d my cell # if you run into any problems. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I think these two might be tied together. The bolts are placed on the bottom of the control box in such a way that the wires HAVE to come out towards the front. The instructions says to mount the box so that the wires are facing rearward. If the wires face forward then it would shorten the cable length some.

I have not hooked to the battery yet but am about there. I took the control box apart and re-oriented the mounting bolts so that it would mount with the wires facing rearward as the instructions say. I'll try to explain this in more detail as I explain the rest of the install.

I have to tighten a few bolts and complete the wire hook-ups and then I will be done. Here are a couple of pics with it basically done.

-

_

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Patriot:
The reaon I asked is because I didn't see it on the H2 in the pictures posted above??? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I figured that. Those pics are from when I changed out my DRLs to Cibie Tangos. I didn't take any pics before I got started and just used those for reference. I just put up some new pics with the bumper almost finished and I now have a black grill and the light bar.

Looks good...

I just painted my grill black today...

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Patriot:
Looks good...

I just painted my grill black today... <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I am going to have to end up doing something to get all of the blacks matching up front. Between the grill, the lower grill, the brush guard, the light bar, the plastic on top of the bumper and the bumper itself, there are all kinds of blacks going on.

I bought a new black grill and still have the chrome one hanging up in my shop. I probably should have had it prepped and painted so the blacks would be closer.

I'm not gonna sweat the mismatched blacks...it would be too hard and cost a bunch to get them all to match up. Not only that, but they will probably fade and discolor at different rates too.

Went out to finish up and I don't think I got any further. My Cibies are giving me a little problem getting the bumper to line up and bolt down properly. I think I can come up with a simple fix for the Light Bar problem but either need to go buy something or make something BUT I don't have anything up here to make anything. All of those tools, metal and stuff is down at the ranch, so that will have to wait.

Now, the POS cable is definitely not long enough to route the way the instructions explain. I am going to try a few options to remedy that problem but Tracey said Warn would take care of this problem.

My suggestion to those that have not started yet is to get Warn to replace the control box. Let them re-do the bolts so that it mounts properly and also add length to the POS cable. That would save some hassle.

Right now I have one of the big bumper bolts cross-threading because of the misalignment due to my Cibies and I guess I am going to have to put a cheater bar on it to get it to pull up the rest of the way.

How much longer does the pos cable need to be?

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Right now I have one of the big bumper bolts cross-threading because of the misalignment due to my Cibies and I guess I am going to have to put a cheater bar on it to get it to pull up the rest of the way. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Youch! Be careful not to break the bolt. I wish I had a dollar for everytime I should have taken the piece off and done it right. If you break the bolt off you are screwed. Hope you can "open" the hole up a bit, chase the threads and get it lined up.

Are you happy with it so far? Where do you plug the controller in? The spool free/lock lever looks a little vulnerable, is it? Can you use a roller fairlead?

BTW I love it. It doesn't have the R.A. "Im having a bad day" look, and after you mash it up a little it should match just fine .

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Fever:
How much longer does the pos cable need to be? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I would say 8" at the shortest but probably 12" to be safe. I pulled the wire a different route and got it to hook up. BUT I have an Optima battery with both top and side posts. I have one of those do-hickeys you add to a standard battery post that allows you to easily wire up aftermarket accessories. So, my wires are bolting up on top and not using the side posts which are aft. I'll post some pics tomorrow.

For those of you who purchased this setup check your pm.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by N2ITNSD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Right now I have one of the big bumper bolts cross-threading because of the misalignment due to my Cibies and I guess I am going to have to put a cheater bar on it to get it to pull up the rest of the way. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Youch! Be careful not to break the bolt. I wish I had a dollar for everytime I should have taken the piece off and done it right. If you break the bolt off you are screwed. Hope you can "open" the hole up a bit, chase the threads and get it lined up.

Are you happy with it so far? Where do you plug the controller in? The spool free/lock lever looks a little vulnerable, is it? Can you use a roller fairlead?

BTW I love it. It doesn't have the R.A. "Im having a bad day" look, and after you mash it up a little it should match just fine . <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I had already screwed up the threads before I knew it. I was using a 1/2" rachet and just didn't feel it get started. The bolt did not get cross-threaded, it was the mounts. So, I figured I would cinch it up and if it broke I would drill it out and re-thread it. I was going to have to re-thread anyway. It cinched up fine, the bolt cut new threads and once it had made it all the way through, it got easier.

I am happy with it except for the "problems" with it being a first run. I really like the build of it and it is definitely well-engineered. The controller plugs into the top of the bumper just to the right of the lock lever. The winch would have to be a new design for the lever to be on top (where it should be), but it has one retaining screw that holds it in, and should be easy to replace if you break it off running into something. It probably sticks out about 2 inches or so. I think you could easily bolt on a roller fairlead in replace of the hawse but I am going with synthetic rope soon anyway.

Once it gets the same amount of bugs and dirt on it that the rest of the front end has, I think it'll look fine.

Paragon, I had the same problem with the bolts not going in straight.

However, thanks to Gobi for their help, We re-threaded two bolts and I'm done. I made two ABS Plastic guards to go over the bumper too. so when you take the winch cable hook to your tow hook, it won't be scratched over and over again. as for the POS cable being to short, their is a red box to the left of the battery and down further. I just an the POS cable to that... it reached just barely.

Overall, the project took me from 10:30 til 4:30 with an hour and a half brake becasue it rained and all of mt tools and trcuk were outdoors.

So here are some half-a$$es pics of the final job.

Overall it wasn't a bad project and am happy to answer an Q's anyone has on the installation.

Thanks Fever for the great deal and all of your follow through on this.

Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic 3

Pic 4

Looks great!! Send me more info on the light bar.

timgco, I like those extra lights! Q: Why don't you just cut out circles, instead of chopping off the trim?

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by H2Finally:
timgco, I like those extra lights! Q: Why don't you just cut out circles, instead of chopping off the trim? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Tried that at first. when you open the hood, their toast. So that is what I ended up with. I have to pick up my powder coated bracket yet and put that on. All Black. I want to do something with the Bling grille too.. not sure what to do yet on that.

Timgco,

Are the cross threaded bolts a real concern?? Or, if one takes their time, could they be prevented? We all don't have access to thread kits. Maybe getting all the bolts started and then tightening all of them slowly?