Well, that was a pain in the ass, but I think it is a lot better now. I wired the markers to flash with the signals, and it is really nice. I can't believe it did not come that way, but it is easy to do if anyone is interested. The hard part is taking off the plastic wheel guard. Let me know if anyone wants to do it, I will post the way I did it..

Well, that was a pain in the ass, but I think it is a lot better now. I wired the markers to flash with the signals, and it is really nice. I can't believe it did not come that way, but it is easy to do if anyone is interested. The hard part is taking off the plastic wheel guard. Let me know if anyone wants to do it, I will post the way I did it..

how about a few pics....

Your talking side marker right? Not roof marker?!

yeah, he was looking to do it earlier today, and it appears he got it working....

That would be awsome to also have the outer roof marker lights blink as well!

yeah please post how you did it

PLEASE.

Here is how I did it:
1. Jack up the front wheel, but you dont have to take it off. Just stretch the suspension so you can get to the push-retainers easier.
2. Take out all the plastic push-retainers around the wheel guard.
3. Once you get them all out, work the wheel guard down and out. It takes a little polish persuasion.
4. You will see the signal/marker lights. Disconnect them, and pull the wires out from the conduit.
5. Now the easy part. Expose the marker light wires, and cut the black/ground wire. I did it as far down as I could. Around where the wires spilt. You will tap into the end that goes to the light, the other end will not be used, and should be taped up.
6. Expose the signal light wires. There are three wires, black, and 2 other colors. I found the hot wire by trial and error, but there is a pattern. It will be the odd color out. Tap into it. Don't cut it, use a wire tap, and tap a new wire into it.
7. Connect the other end of the new wire to the ground wire. I used an inline butt connector. Make everything neat and tape it up well. Obviously check it first!!!
8. I also bought new marker lights that are rated for blinkers as well. I thought it might make them last longer.
9. The lights will blink opposite the front blinkers. I think it looks cool.
10. Just to review. Tap a new wire into the hot wire of the blinkers and connect that to the ground wire, which you cut, that goes to the marker light.

Put everything back together....and your done.

THAT'S IT... EASY DAY!!

Now, let me get this correct. You tapped into the hot wire (Dark Blue) that is fed by the BCM (body control module) to the front flashers?
You then connected this voltage source to the ground side of the side marker lamp that has B+ to the other side of the bulb; through the filament, when the park lamps are on?
So, now with the park lamps on, you have power flowing through the bulb from the PRK/LP relay, and then into the circuit that powers the turn signal bulb. This power will naturally flow to the BCM, which at this state is an open switch, waiting for the turn signal lever signal to close the circuit and flash the lamps.
OK; your BCM, your Hummer. Just remember, if sometime in the future your BCM fries, and the tech does what he is supposed to do and that is troubleshoot the circuits, and a good tech will test for both opens and shorts to power, and when he checks for power at BCM connector C1, terminals B1 or B2, he will find 12 volts (minus whatever the drop is across the bulb filament).
He will then track down this short to power, and that might take hours, find the non-factory splice, and the dealer will call and say that the cause was due to improper wiring and that you are responsible for the diagnosis and the BCM replacement. GM will not cover this either, and to be honest, they shouldn't.
Installation should have had low resistance relays in each turn signal circuit to protect the BCM.
Hopefully, these circuits of the BCM have diodes to protect the circuit internal to the BCM.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GotSandH3:
That would be awsome to also have the outer roof marker lights blink as well! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

What about chasing lights at Christmas...?

BLAH...BLAH....BLAH!! I am a mechanical engineer, not an E.E, so I went through the trouble of researching this online first. From what I have read, people have done the exact same mod on a variety of vehicles without any problems. Not one negative result, but that is not to say that I could be wrong. I am relying on the word of others, since this is not my expertise. Anyway, we will see. As far as your question, I connected(spliced) a new wire to the hot wire going into the signal light outlet. Then I connected the other end to the ground wire going ro the marker light, which was cut. They said this creates a "floating ground."
Thanks for your concern. I will let you guys know if there is a problem.

pictures...

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FROGGY69ER:
BLAH...BLAH....BLAH!! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Blah...blah...blah....NOT MY HUMMER. BCMs in this day and age are very well protected from reverse current and power surges. Just letting you know what would happen if the BCM blew for any reason that required the tech to trouble shoot. Even if it blew because another wire, you didn't tamper with became shorted, you would have a hard time getting out of paying for the item.
I thought I would offer some incite and a suggestion on how to wire it so that there would be no feedback to the BCM on this circuit, however the sarcastic reply tells me that I will butt out, and wish you the best of luck.
I will stay out of this thread.

This is me crying............!!!!! CIAO!!!