Upgrade Steering and Suspensions Parts
All the parts that i've ordered came in.....i'm goin' to install 'em this weekend.
Here's the parts list: ARP exhaust manifold stud kit AC Delco exhaust manifold gasket Exhaust manifold donut Torsion bar bracket support bushings Cognito steering support kit Cognito front stabilizer link kit Cognito upper control arm kit AC Delco rear stabilizer links Moog inner and outer tie-rods Bilstein front and rear shocks Bilstein steering stabilizer I have to deal with the broken exhaust manifold bolts on rear passenger side. Hopefully it'll come out without a fight . Next mods will be to re-gear the front and rear diffirential with yukon gears 4.88 and also install front eaton e-lockers . |
Re: Upgrade Steering and Suspensions Parts
wow... thats going to be a fun weekend for you..
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yeah, hopefully it's goin' to be a smooth install.....the only things that worries me is that pesky broken manifold bolts :mad:.
Did you ever replaced your torsion key support bracket bushings...mine's are welded to the frame and i have to drill new holes for the replacement parts. When i replaced my TB keys, i've noticed the bushings so loose and caused clunking when suspension flexes. |
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Wow..That's a beautiful sight. haha. But hard work!
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LOL....btw, how do you like your rancho steering stabilizer? i'm tempting to get that but go with the bilstein instead, hopefully i made a good choice. |
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You will want to add the cognito limiting straps to go with those control arms and shocks as this setup will cause front arms to hang on upper ball joint rather than the shock as the limiter, which casues premature ball joint failure. straps will cure it
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Thanks tomp, this is a great info...i'll install it next time :D . |
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Nice parts list and ya... Fun weekend ahead of you.
Start with something you know will be easy to conquer and get your momentum going for those busted mani bolts. Not sure if you read my header post but I had a stud remover. Took two turns on the stud and it snapped a second time. |
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Thanks for the heads-up bro, i have all the tools that needed as i'm an auto technician by trade (master tech at honda). Yes, i saw your post on broken manifold bolts....hopefully mine wouldn't give me a hard fight. One thing though, can you check your torsion bar support bracket bushings if it's welded to the frame....mine is and it's loose....it's kinda stupid move from gm though.....now, i have to drill holes to install the replacement parts. |
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I'll check.... ASAP. What wasn't a stupid move by GM?
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Thanks...LOL! |
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Those Moog Tie Rods don't look any beefier than OEM TR's.
If you do any amount of serious off-roading you might want to upgrade to something like <THESE>. Quote:
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Good advice on the TRs Summit! Moog makes good stuff but those TRs look weak like OEM.
Even highway miles will wear those ball joints early without the straps. Of course mines a daily driver so I see the early failures more than most and Im running their uniballs. |
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Summit, i went with the Moog tie-rods because of one thing....these will act as a fusible links on the steering. If i install a stronger tie-rods, something will give down the line. It's easier to replace the tie-rods especially on the trails. Recently, i busted my RF inner half-shaft....luckily a friend of mine had a spare and i replaced it on the trail....imagine if the half-shaft didn't give, the next in-line is the diffirential. I replaced it with Cardone Select and i never had any problem yet.
Thanks for the suggestions though :D . |
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If Summit adhered the the Fusable Link principal, he wouldnt last 5 minutes on the trails he wheels on. The H2 tie rods are severely under sized compared to the strength of the rest of the steering components. In fact, you can buy the strongest tie rods you can find an they will still be the first thing to give out. As far as the front diff goes, all of diffs I have heard of breaking had OEM shafts and I have yet to hear of an H2 front diff give out on the trail. Maybe some have & I haven't heard of it. All of the ones I have heard about have been on the street. The later model H2 front diffs 04+ have proven to Hold up very well. So well that I plan to install the Unbreakable RCV shafts. The reason the OEM and Cardone shafts break easily is because the outer metal housing is softer than the hardened ball bearings. This causes the bearing to peen the housing with small indentions over time. You never know what will cause them to break, might be something rediculous when they let go.
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Well, got a 45min. spare time and installed rear shocks and stab links...only thing that bother me are the grease fitting on the links....hopefully rocks wont shear them.
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tomp, thanks for the great info as always, for now, i'll see if this TR would hold for the type of trails we do here....i actually almost bought the DMAX rods.
We have one H2 front diff grenade on the trail and his oem half-shaft we're perfectly OK. Don't know how what happened though. |
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I peeked under the truck and yes, my bushings are welded also.
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Thanks bro...... while in there, did you checked if the bushings are loose? you might be surprise what you find. |
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No, but I will. I was just taking a quick peek for ya.
How do you tell if they're loose? |
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