I contacted fabtech re. 4" lift.
They said it is in the works.
no date for release though.
does anyone know of any other companies comming out w/ a 4" lift. when?

I contacted fabtech re. 4" lift.
They said it is in the works.
no date for release though.
does anyone know of any other companies comming out w/ a 4" lift. when?

talked with Rancho this week. It will be available "soon." They already have part numbers for the shocks, but not the lift.

I also contacted Fabtech after reading this post and they said they were "discussing whether to make a lift for the H3".

This is a bit different from being "in the works".

BTW, if you put a Rancho lift on your rig - good luck to you

-C

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FormerJeeper:
I also contacted Fabtech after reading this post and they said they were "discussing whether to make a lift for the H3".

This is a bit different from being "in the works".

BTW, if you put a Rancho lift on your rig - good luck to you

-C </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Fabtech told me the same thing. They are thinking about doing the lift... orr not.

What's wrong with Rancho lifts? I've never had an issue with Rancho... just a couple of shock bushings one time.

Does any manufacturers know what their talking about?

Everyone I know that had Rancho lifts on their Jeeps ended up replacing them with something better. They ride way too stiff for my liking.

I'd wait for FabTech...

-C

Lots of Disco users tried rancho products and were dissapointed. Never tried them myself.

I hear September 15 that the Rancho kit will be available.
As for Rancho prodcuts, they have changed quite a bit for the better (lets hope). Should be intresting to see how they pan out.
I'll be getting one as soon as they are available and I post some pics.

About the only way to get a lift on a torsion bar suspended front is to lower the mounting locations of the arms, or minimum the lower arm with a new elongated knuckle. Then lower the crossmember holding the torsion bar to keep it level with the frame/ground as it requires a certain geometry with the arm (perpendicular centerline with the motion of the arm).
When GM came out first with the large truck using the torsion bar back in 1988, the bar was not actually part of the frame mount on the arm. It was offset into the arm and actually swung with the arm movement. This places stress at both ends of the bar as one moves and the other is still. The long length lowered the stress at the crossmember.
Today's technology, 1 or 2 aftermarket companies are now offering a strut coil/shock in replacement of the torsion bar with the lift kit. This keeps the center of the vehicle high and no dropping of the crossmember. The kit usually requires a stronger lower arm to take the abuse of the strut. Ford trucks (1/2 ton) went to a torsion bar IFS back in 97. In 04, they went to a strut IFS. Go figure.
To lift the H3, it's r&p steering will set precidence on the lift. Either slight lift keeping all stock and within the geometry of the stock components (limiting to the cv axle extended length), maybe swapping in a new longer lower arm or a large enough lift to drop the pinion of the diff below the crossmember and clear it. If this, then expect frame lowering brackets, maybe a new cradle for the diff, a elongated knuckle, and maybe the strut coil/shock setup.
For the rear lift, simple and easy due to the leaf springs. Slight lift, longer shackle. Slightly larger lift, maybe an add-a-leaf (should be full length and not the stubby). Large lift, spring over axle. Though I would really like to see a coil rear suspension swap.
Just note, that lifting the IFS front and due to the way the arms are attached to the frame, the tire will be drawn under the vehicle, making the track width smaller. Wheel spacers may be required to bring the tire back out. In the rear, with the leafs, axle will only swing forward minimally/unnoticeable, maybe.

Why so much interest on lifting H3's? You can fit 35's without lift ,and not worsen the center of gravity

Someone posted that lifting a leaf under axle with an extended length shackle is a bad idea.

Any idea why?

I've successfully added 6" extended length shackles to several over-the-axle Jeep Cherokee's to get a decent lift.

Personally I don't like the under the axle approach of the H3 and will probably move to over the axle and replace those rock magnet brackets.

-C

I have seen the extended shakle set up on Xterras (Leaf under axle) without problems

Being an engineer, I typically try to figure out a lot of things....I'm not an auto design engineer....
To me, a shackle is just an extension of the main leaf spring. It's design is to provide displacement of the spring during suspension cycling. The frame location and length are very important. The shackle is to provide a swing motion to when the spring transfers from a concave configuration to a flat configuration to a convex configuration (during movement. Only problem with just adding a longer shackle is that you won't get the benefit of the full extension of the flat leaf and you also have potential at full droop not to have the shackle eyes centerline in line with the axle mount. If the centerline of the eyes go past the axle mount, then the leaf will bind and snap against the frame in front of the shackle mount. This obviously damages the leaf and places lots of shear stress on the shackle mount.
Note this, the different length leafs provide the different load carrying capacity of the pack. The more the droop the less capacity, then at some point, no capacity, and lastly, if drooped far enough, you have resistance.

$3500.00 installed is crazy.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MyxH3:
$3500.00 installed is crazy. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

well, for the:
4" Lift
FE Alignment
9000 shocks
16 X 9 Moto Metal Rims (5 in black)
315/75R16 MFG MT's with off road warranty (5 tires)

Everything was quoted @ $4705.00 O.T.D. through 4 wheel Parts.

That isn't too bad in my opinion considering the amount of labor invloved.
That price doesn't bother me. What does bother me is that you cannot use the ladder frame UC protection with this kit. So you lift the rig to wheel with more clearance on the body (4 inches of lift to the body over stick and 1.25" of added ground clearance with teh 35's) and than you are without UC protection. Maybe their is something that comes with the lift. I'm not too sure yet. Anyone else have info on this lift?

I agree, for $4705 you could probably do a solid front axle swap, coil overs and still have change left over.

-C

i just talked to rancho...
they said end of september....

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FormerJeeper:
I agree, for $4705 you could probably do a solid front axle swap, coil overs and still have change left over.



-C </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yep, you could, but I'd be willing to bet the truck would ride like **** with a solid front axle.

Plus, that's a lot of work. The other problem you would run into is there isn't anyone out there that has done this and EVERYTHING would be custom.

There's plenty of people in NorCal
They do it all the time for the yota guys.
I seriously doubt it would "ride like ****" either.

-C