So, what’s the metal thingy (sway bar?) that goes over the tie rods and connects to a vertical rod that connects below to the larger metal thingy that goes under the tie rods? Anyway, that’s what my tires are rubbing on, not the wheel well. I get the impression that PhilD is correct when he said that it’s the width not the diameter that causes the rubbing. I’m not sure it’s going to help much raising the t-bars, though I’ll probably raise them a little for clearance anyway. Question: Will the rubbing at slow speed damage the aforementioned top metal thingy? Anything else?

You bring no good to this forum. You are banned.

Quite a few here have stock tires that rub there. Don't worry about it.

However, if you're concerned, post some pics of the area and the rub marks so we can get a better, more clear indication of the pressure.

Quite a few here have stock tires that rub there. Don't worry about it.

However, if you're concerned, post some pics of the area and the rub marks so we can get a better, more clear indication of the pressure. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Are you saying that you can't understand my highly-technical, scientific description?

If you're worried about it, loosen the two attaching straps on the crossmember slightly, then knock it back to center with a sledge.

Here:

...

Answered your question ;-) Anti sway bar. With stock tirers and Xterrains mine onlyn rubbed on the passenger side. With SSR's they rubbed on both sides, and the frame at back of the front wheel well. Both are width (or backspacing) issues.

My 38's don't rub on the frame or the sway bar, but do rub on the wheel well liner, which is a height issue, (although tire width is having some effect too).

It won't damage the sway bar at all, just give ita shiny spot.

I've had people tell me that theior tires don't rub, but sure enoough they have that sway bar shiny spot. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

It appears that cranking the t-bars will make no difference in the rubbing. It's a width thing with me. Would putting on new rims with different backspacing (Does more backspacing mean the tire is moved further away from the lugs, i.e. widen the stance?) help? It seems that it might to me. Would that make me more likely to rub something else, like the wheel well?

Other way , less backspacing will bring the wheel farther away from the hub, which inturn widens the stance.

[/quote] Would that make me more likely to rub something else, like the wheel well?[/quote]

Hard to tell unless you try it. You could always invest in some aluminum spacers to correct the problem, rather than buy new rims.

Very normal, you just have to shoot with some black paint every now and then so no one things you be blinging.

Are there any disadvantages to doing this? I'm just guessing, but it seems that it would not be as strong of a moutn as just having a rim with less backspacing.

Are there any disadvantages to doing this? I'm just guessing, but it seems that it would not be as strong of a moutn as just having a rim with less backspacing. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have heard both sides of the story here (some like them, and some say stay far, far away from them). I have used them before, and never had a moments problem. I know a lot of the "Jeep" (dare I say thet word here) guys run them, and see no real issues w/ them. As long as you get the aluminum ones, and follow the intructions on torqueing them, you should not have any issues w/ them. Not as good as having rims w/ the correct backspacing, but a much cheaper alternative to buying 4-5 new rims. The last ones i purchases were from a guy on ebay called "sscramblin" I think, and they were about $160 for 4 w/ lugs. Anyways, good luck brother.

I wouldn't do it. You are changing the dynamics in several different ways. First the wheel needs the center hole resting around the raised section on the hub. It's approaching 8Klbs spread across those 4 wheels, so when wheeling, it needs a strong setup.

Secondly, you are obviously moving the weight further out on the studs themselves and thirdly a lot of these are not very well balanced and will cause bearing failure or other problems.

It's just hard to compare our rigs to other since they weigh so much, are also DD, and plus when off-road do more than just fire roads.

BTW, just a couple of weeks ago, a local Jeep guy was making a corner when his spacer and wheel came off.

Other way around, less backspacing moves the tire away from the vehicle.

I don't think with 37's you'll rub anything else by moving the wheel away from the vehicle.

Stock rims have a BS of 5.5", 4.5" seems to work well in avoiding rubbing. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Does anyone know the required lug pattern for H2 wheels?
These look pretty good if they come in the correct pattern. http://www.procomptires.com/series97.htm
Any opinions?

Other way around, less backspacing moves the tire away from the vehicle.

I don't think with 37's you'll rub anything else by moving the wheel away from the vehicle.

Stock rims have a BS of 5.5", 4.5" seems to work well in avoiding rubbing. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Does anyone know the required lug pattern for H2 wheels?
These look pretty good if they come in the correct pattern. http://www.procomptires.com/series97.htm
Any opinions? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I'm pretty sure it's the second from the bottom 6.5"

I can get these for $110/wheel. They are steel wheels. Does that sound like a good deal? The advice I got was that an aluminum wheel will less likely bend than a steel one, but more likely break. The aluminum ones are more expensive. The guy I talked to recommended getting the steel ones. Good advice?

Depends on who you talk to. Personally, I don't like steelies. But I am not wheel guy.