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Ok, I've got to say the DRTY Bumper is awesome! What a piece of work. It's well crafted, slips right on and wires up without any problems.
With the old bumper and valance removed. All that was necessary was to remove a few 18mm bolts from the bumper, disconnect the DRL's and slide the bumper off. |
Ok, I've got to say the DRTY Bumper is awesome! What a piece of work. It's well crafted, slips right on and wires up without any problems.
With the old bumper and valance removed. All that was necessary was to remove a few 18mm bolts from the bumper, disconnect the DRL's and slide the bumper off. |
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Then you remove the front hitch mount and separate the valance from the stock bumper. POC.
Slide the new bumper on with the supplied 4 washers and loosely attach. Add the faring. Before mounting the winch you need to remove the cable that came with it because the DRTY bumper comes with a new synthetic line and the cable is heavy. |
Mega Sweet! Looks wicked nice!
I want one! ![]() |
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Attach the winch by sliding it in place and use the supplied nuts and bolts. Run ground cable from winch to the engine compartment.
Open hood and attach bracket to hood latch ONE bolt at a time using the new nylock nuts and bolts. Mount control box. FWIW, I used tin snips to remove some unneeded metal brackets on the back of the box to get a nice flush fit against the new bracket. |
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Run cables to winch under the radiator and attach matching the colors. Make sure the cables clear the serpentine belt and will not get tangled in the steering or suspension components. Use zip ties to secure.
Tighten down bumper, but NOT the rear/lower bolts. Those two need to wait. Attach positive cable, then negative cables not forgetting the small negative from the controller. I needed to make several trips to the autoparts store at this point because my posts weren't long enough. I just bought some adaptors. |
Thanks for the install write up.
Again your new ride looks AMAZING you're doing a great job with it. Have lots of fun and please post pictures along the way. |
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Thanks, guys.
Cables under the truck. |
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The winch is ready to test and respool. Run the new line UNDER the spool and attach to the ground screw. Turn the winch mounted dial 180*.
Have someone run the winch while you pull the line and run it across the spool keeping it taught. When finished you can begin mounting the valance. You only use four of the original screws and you may want to trim the bottom of the valance above the winch to completely clear it. I started to do this, but screwed up so I just jammed it on and it works fine. |
I've got serious truck envy
![]() Do you have a pic of the adapter you used? You should put a DRTY or MOAB decal over the upside down Tabor sticker. The orange seems out of place to me. |
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After reconnecting the DRL's you're ready to move on to the hardest part. Attaching the skid plate.
Remove the two, lower rear bumper bolts that should still be loose. Slide the new skid plate into place and attach. Don't forget the big washers that go in between the bumper and the frame. Now for the hard part, the top, forward most bolts. I just couldn't get the damn things on. My fingers could hardly hold the special nuts that DRTY had made for the application. But finally, I got them on... |
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by CslRkH2:
Do you have a pic of the adapter you used? You should put a DRTY or MOAB decal over the upside down Tabor sticker. The orange seems out of place to me. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Yes, I will take one in just a minute. ![]() Now, I put this here incase anyone orders this bumper and doesn't get the instructions. ![]() |
What a nice product! Makes all the other winches look like an after thought.
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Are you running a switch inside the cab?
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It really is a nice product and 1/4" steel.
Here's a pic of the battery adaptor. You have to carefully pry the factory plastic hood in order to remove the factory bolt. BTW, the bolt is removed easiest by pulling it away from the battery, not toward it. This adaptor gives you room to mount many electrical devices straight to the battery. |
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by CslRkH2:
Are you running a switch inside the cab? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>No. That is the only downside to this system. You have to open the hood to hook up the remote. I'm going to look into mounting a plug elsewhere, I just don't know how to do it at this point. Even with that, I think it is the best looking and engineered bumper on the market. |
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by KenP:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by CslRkH2: Are you running a switch inside the cab? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>No. That is the only downside to this system. You have to open the hood to hook up the remote. I'm going to look into mounting a plug elsewhere, I just don't know how to do it at this point. Even with that, I think it is the best looking and engineered bumper on the market. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> That truck looks great!! ![]() There's a couple of wireless remote systems that can be used. I have been trying to find a wiring supplier to make an extension plug that can be run to the side slatted vent near the hood latch. Not much luck yet. All of them are $100+ so far. Wireless remote is probably the way to go. |
They make remotes (wireless) controls...that is what I would get.
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ah, just beat by DRTY!
![]() So, um...where is mine? |
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by VTSTOMPER:
ah, just beat by DRTY! ![]() So, um...where is mine? </div></BLOCKQUOTE> You haven't begged enough or shown up to our Moab outings. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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