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Towing Questions?
Hello,
I just recently bought a 24 foot enclosed cargo hauler (trailer)! The trailer and contents are going to have a gross weight of 6k lbs. I will actually use the trailer weekly. Do you think that I should use my H2 to pull it, or should I use a truck? I have on 04 Ford F-150, but it is a short box, short wheel base v6. I used it to pull the trailer home and it didn't fair very well. So I am thinking about trading the Ford for a V8 long wheel base, long box 06 Ford F 150 with the heavy duty trailering package. I always appreciate the forums opinion. Just worried about using such a nice truck (my h-2) to do that work week after week. Round trip would be about 210 miles weekly. thanks dk |
Re: Towing Questions?
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You shouldn't have any trouble. The H2 weighs more, and might have better brakes than the F150. You have a brake box right? If you have air suspension, you should be careful to load everything for the best weight distribution to make sure the tongue weight isn't too heavy. If you have any concerns about that, then an equalizer hitch should be used or you run the risk of overloading the airbags, and the computer will shut down the suspension.
I pull an enclosed 4 place snowmachine trailer, no problem. Have fun! |
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Yeah I can balance the load with no problem. What length of drop hitch do you use? I do have air suspension so I would want to make sure that I don't screw with that. How does yours pull? Thanks for the input, I am trying to make a decision this week!
dk |
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OMG! Rox, you have sowmobiles, newest best friend? :excited::beerchug::clapping::clapping::clapping:
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I tow a 12 foot utility trailer (1000 pounds) and use an 8" drop. I just towed the trailer with 3000 pounds of top soil on it pulled like nothing was back there. Tow haul mode works great. In the 08 when you have tow haul active it auto downshifts the tranny when you start breaking, pretty damn slick! I could tell the load was back there when braking, but not really when I was accelerating. |
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Thanks, I figured it would be about an 8 inch drop on mine as well. I guess I will hook it up and give it a try this week and see how I like it. I just don't know if I want to put that much use into it. I really like it and don't see a reason to trade it, as it only has 44k miles on it.
thanks for your advice. dk |
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If you use the H2 to haul the trailer it means more time behind the wheel of the H2....that is a beautiful thing! Its a tough truck, it will take it.
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You should have no troubles..... no reason to buy another truck, you want the ball height to be right at 18" so Im guessing that a 6" to 8" drop should be perfect. Make sure you get an electric brake control as well, that is way too big of a trailer to even think about trying to stop it with the truck brakes.
Have fun :D |
Re: Towing Questions?
I use mine to tow a trailer, loaded with a twin-turbo Porsche, as well as a 1956 356C Porsche. Never have a problem other than the 5.5 MPG! The whole rig weights in at 9400 lbs., but it does have disc brakes on all 3 axles.
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Thanks for the advice. I am going to hook it up tomorrow and see what I think. I think if I balance the load and get the right size on the drop hitch, it will pull very nice.
thanks again dk |
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Just towed with my H2 this weekend. Loaded my C5 in an 8.5 x 20' enclosed and went to a local car show. Pulled just fine.................plus ya can't argue the "wow" factor when you pull up in a white H2, pulling a white enclosed and unload a white superchargerd C5......... :D
I didn't have time to install the brake controller before I left, but the rig did just fine. I will have it on next time though just for added safety. |
Re: Towing Questions?
I use a Rapid Hitch from Andersen Manufacturing. I'm not sure where you could find one locally.
10 inch drop puts the tongue on almost any trailer in the perfect spot. http://ultrahitch.rpmsolutions.biz/index.cfm?section=73 ![]() ![]() The Rapid Hitch is made of an aluminum super alloy that will NEVER RUST! The aluminum looks great by itself, so there is no need for paint or chrome that can chip and peel. To keep the shine, you simply need to polish the hitch from time to time and you will have a high gloss surface that looks brand new. Another benefit to this aluminum super alloy is that it is light and surprisingly strong. It only weighs 15 lbs. with the greaseless ball option making it easy to handle and adjust. It is V5 certified with a strength rating of 10,000 lbs. and 1,500 tongue weight with the 2 5/16" steel ball. The Rapid Hitch is built for the long haul...the real world where ease of use and strength really count. The Rapid Hitch is available in three drop sizes - the 3 1/4" drop/rise, the 5 1/4" drop/rise, and a full 10" drop. The 10" drop is recommended for lifted vehicles and has adjustment options from approximately 4" of drop to the full 10" drop. The standard 5 1/4" drop/rise is designed to fit all factory standard pick-up trucks. However, we have discovered that in some instances the standard Rapid Hitch will drag on the ground in a dip, so we have added the SUV Rapid Hitch to help eliminate this situation. The shorter SUV Rapid Hitch works best with most light trucks, ½ ton trucks, and SUV’s. A quick and easy way to judge what size drop you need is to measure from the ground up to the inside top of your 2" receiver tube. If the measurement is 20" or less - the 3 1/4" drop is for you. If the measurement is between 20" and 24" you need the 5 1/4" drop. If you measure more than 24" you will need the 10" drop. The tongue heights of your trailers and the suspension on your truck play a part, but in most cases these measurements will give you what you need. If you are unsure, please take your truck to your local dealer for advice. The Rapid Hitch is the perfect hitch for anyone who tows multiple trailers. You can flip the double ball over, change the drop to a rise, or adjust the height of the drop all by simply removing the hitch pin and putting it back in place. With the easy height adjustment you can make sure you are keeping your trailer level. With the 2" and 2 5/16" ball combo, you cover most trailers on the road today. We also have a combination ball that includes the 1 7/8" and 2" ball. The 3 common ball sizes (i.e. 1 7/8", 2" & 2 5/16") are available individually if desired. The various balls are easily changed by removing a hidden pin which attaches the ball to the ball housing. (See instructions for further details.) When only the best will do...you need the Rapid Hitch – The easiest to use and most versatile ball mount system available today. All Rapid Hitch sizes have a 10,000 lb. GTWR and 1,500 lb. tongue weight - limited by ball capacity.
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Another thing I've noticed, and anyone could disagree, is that the computer learns how your driving over distance. So if you don't use the tow/haul button, the computer actually learns how to shift for you. One thing about tow/haul tho, I think it makes it shift faster, so there's not as much lag between gears. This is good for the torque converter. Have fun! |
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p.s. My rapid hitch hasn't ever drug the ground. FYI.
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Towing that much weight without trailer brakes is just crazy if you ask me, not to mention illegal (I believe any trailer over 2K or 2.5K lbs needs to have brakes). If you had to panic stop you could seriously hurt, kill yourself or someone else on the road not to mention destroy your truck, vette (Im also a vette owner so I dont want to see one get destroyed :D) and trailer. A brake controller is less than $100 and with a harness very easy to install. Be safe |
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In PA anything at 3000 pounds or above you need brakes on the trailer. They can be either surge brakes built into the tongue or electric brakes that work in conjuction with the towing vehicles brakes. |
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Maybe I should have clarified, the trailer did have brakes. They were/are manually adjusted (first one I have had like this) and were activated when I applied the brakes on the tow vehicle ( I know this because the front axle would lock up in the wet grass when I was moving the trailer to load). Upon reading the owners manual it detailed how to adjust brakes like this as well as after installing a controller. As the previous owner used the trailer to haul a weight close to mine I thought this set up would be fine for the short distance I was towing. As mentioned, I will have the controller on before I tow again with the H2. I lke being able to "fine tune" from the cab for varying conditions and load.
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I see..... alot of trailers wont activate the brakes without a controller, we have a Haulmark double axle enclosed trailer (8x13 motorcycle trailer), you can haul it without a brake controller but doing this results in no trailer brakes, you are completely relying on the tow vehicle to stop the trailer. Sorry for any misunderstanding:beerchug: |
Re: Towing Questions?
No problem at all. I can see where my original post read as if I didn't have any brakes at all. My other trailers are as yours and do require the controller to activate the brakes. This is the first I have seen like this. They are electric brakes (on the front axle only) and work alright, but I will feel a lot better after I get my controller on and can re-adjust and also set the gain.
On a side note, I see you have an R1 and some 1/4 mile times. I also drag race motorcycles. Always good to meet a fellow enthusiast!!! Darren |
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