Phil, I remember that you had some info on how many turns on torsion bars equals 1". Please share as I coudn't find the post through all of the ones that showed up.

Also, how much heigth can we get away with without having an alignment done?

Thx Phil...

Phil, I remember that you had some info on how many turns on torsion bars equals 1". Please share as I coudn't find the post through all of the ones that showed up.

Also, how much heigth can we get away with without having an alignment done?

Thx Phil...

I FINALLY GOT THE STUPID FIND BUTTON TO WORK!
YAY!

Here ya go. This should help.
torsion bar turns

Thx guys...

Was I dreaming or do I actually remember Phil saying something in a post about going maybe 1/2"-1" should not need an alignment?

I might have been thinking of another comment where I think you said 1/2" wouldn't make the ride feel stiffer or at least noticable - or something along those lines.

Also, where did you purchase your black powdercoated SMA fuel door? I do not see any black, except black chrome on their site.

tomp, I had mine done 3 turns and needed an alignment. Unfortunately, I didn't realize it until my tires started to wear. The toe was out and it wasn't making the car pull to either side, and I didn't know to have it aligned after making the adjustments. Alignment was about $50.00 I believe.

The ride is a little stiffer, but the nose of the car doesn't dive anymore during a quick stop. I don't notice the difference anymore. Make sure to drive it for a few days before having it aligned, then you can be sure whether or not you like it.

I can't find an alignment shop that'll do the lifetime thing.

$60 a pop and they're the only ones I've fund so far that'll do them.

I can't remember what brand of spray can bedliner coating it was, but I did my skidplate with it and even the rain off the roads caused it to peel. I even did it twice - the second time I scuffed up the surface real good and applied several thin coats and allowed lots of drying time in between.

Phil, would you recommend the SMA fuel door as a good product? I have got some current SMA issues, so I thought I'd ask first.

Also, do you think it can be powdercoated at a shop, since it appears to already be assembled?I am not sure if the door can be seperated from the ring as the pic appears to show a non-removeable pin holding the two together.

I bring this up because I amnot sure if it can be coated as an assembly without having an issue around the hinge area.

I'm out of town, so I can't crawl under mine to look: Do you have to take any skid plates off to get to the torsion bar bolts?

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
Unfortunately, I didn't realize it until my tires started to wear. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>That wasn't the adjustment, that was caused by the weight of all that chrome

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">The toe was out and it wasn't making the car pull to either side, and I didn't know to have it aligned after making the adjustments. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Your toe was most likely already off before the adjustments, camber is the main thing to be effected by torsion bar adjustment, not toe.

FWIW My alignment drifts off real fast and I now adjust the toe myself between full alignments. I've been using a plumb bob and tape measure, which gets it pretty close, but I'm thinking of getting some alignment tables. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> So I had a bad camber-toe?

How can your alignment "drift off?" Don't you tighten the bolts or whatever good and tight? What makes it do that? Too much bouncing around all the time?