I have a 05 SUT and I'd like to install an electric fan. Can you use GM parts from the new 2500s. Or is using the Flex-A-Lite Monster 282 the only way.

I spoke to a Flex-A-Lite rep and he said that GMs only have a few number of different radiators and if the H2 radiator is the same length as a other GM one, the fan shroud should have the same mount points. Is this right?

I have a 05 SUT and I'd like to install an electric fan. Can you use GM parts from the new 2500s. Or is using the Flex-A-Lite Monster 282 the only way.

I spoke to a Flex-A-Lite rep and he said that GMs only have a few number of different radiators and if the H2 radiator is the same length as a other GM one, the fan shroud should have the same mount points. Is this right?

I am in the same situation. I used to have the 6.0 Silverado SS with 282's on and it worked perfectly in the TX summer never missed a beat. I used a custom fan controler though not the crappy Flexalite one.
I am thinking the 282's will work fine although the rep told me that the 290 universal fit might be a better option I am not sure yet will do more research.
Jonathan

Use the fan from the 2500 GM truck and go to Nelsonperformance.com and get the wiring harness that allows You to hook it in to the ecm and program with software to turn off and on. Can get fan at Eadsperformance.com.

You will have to cut the metal tranny lines and use rubber because they will not relocate enough for the fan shroud to work.
Holes to mount do not match and You have to drill holes for the new shroud and use the new shroud holes to mount.
Add rubber washers between the shroud and core support and the shroud and the flat washer between the new bolt head and the shroud.
It all works great and You should be able to find more info on this from Me and maybe another by doing a search in find.

I should mention this was done on My 2005 H2 SUV and assume that it will work on SUT. have not looked at them to confirm myself.

TAZ

This may be a dumb question, but are you guys doing this because of overheating problems?

Jonathan,
So long as you or whoever installs the fans follows the instructions and mount the fan controller where the instructions say everything will work fine. The Flexlite rep's advice about the 290 in my opinion is fine. Although if as has been pointed out previously you do water crossings you may want to consider the fans from the GM2500 I believe they have a ring that connects the fan blades which would make them more durable when forging water. Make sure to install the cut off switch for the fans in the cabin so that you can switch them off if needed. flexlite also has a fan with a connecting ring, I don't know the model number.

The custom controller you spoke of on a previous install was this something you built or something that is commercially available?

I believe I'm having trouble with my controller or its install location so I'm looking for options. Right now I'm leaning towards simply relocating the controller I have but if a more robust unit is available I would like to have some info about this.

Thanks

It's not the over heating for me. Its just getting that clutch fan out....

Ahhhh! Good point, you can pick up a few extra HP! I just asked because I just started having some overheating problems.
Thanks

I've noticed on my truck (its a 05 SUT with a SC) that I can drive all day and all night in town with traffic and no traffic keeping the truck under 80 MPH on the freeway, my temp is always a cu@t hair under 210(never moves one way or the other), If I get on the freeway and keep it at 90-95 MPH the temp climbs up to 220 and start going up and down from 210 to 220. I don't know or think this is normal but as long as it dos'nt go any higher I don't think it would hurt the motor.



<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Bill:
Ahhhh! Good point, you can pick up a few extra HP! I just asked because I just started having some overheating problems.
Thanks </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That's pretty much what mine does, but it just started that this summer. It's mainly going up grades and I don't have to be under boost with the S/C for it to do it... so I don't think that the S/C is the source. I am thinking of going to a larger radiator that Breathless sells that is supposed to be a direct fit.

that run up toward 225 is normal, from all the techs i've talked to. pulling a 21' camper up over the trinity nat'l forest from redding to the coast gave the temp gauge a workout. even with rpm in mid 4k range for almost a mile in 95 degree heat i never went above 235. passed an H1 pulled over, towing nothing, with his hood up and steam floating out of the engine compartment. even with nothing being towed, mine goes up over 210, then drifts back. i don't worry about it anymore, i just keep an eye on it.

Fubar00,
Its commercially available as mentioned by someone else its from Nelson performance and it uses a blank ecu output trigger and the fan turn on is controled by the ecu not that rediculous probe stuck in the coolant stream much better IMHO.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Fubar00:
Jonathan,
So long as you or whoever installs the fans follows the instructions and mount the fan controller where the instructions say everything will work fine. The Flexlite rep's advice about the 290 in my opinion is fine. Although if as has been pointed out previously you do water crossings you may want to consider the fans from the GM2500 I believe they have a ring that connects the fan blades which would make them more durable when forging water. Make sure to install the cut off switch for the fans in the cabin so that you can switch them off if needed. flexlite also has a fan with a connecting ring, I don't know the model number.

The custom controller you spoke of on a previous install was this something you built or something that is commercially available?

I believe I'm having trouble with my controller or its install location so I'm looking for options. Right now I'm leaning towards simply relocating the controller I have but if a more robust unit is available I would like to have some info about this.

Thanks
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Mine has gotten hot enough that the DIC read "ENGINE COOLANT HOT".

My '03 H2 has never had any problem with overheating but the A/C performance when idling around town was lacking. I installed the Flex-A-Lite 282 kit & it's been a "Night & Day" difference. Now the A/C condensor has sufficient air flow even while parked & idling to cool the whole truck perfectly.

with E fans or just the OE type set up?

Mine has the OE fan and the Air Conditioner has always frozen you out even on a day like today when it is 113 and climbing!

Question for those who may know or have an idea.

From my sig line you can see that I have a SC installed the inner cooler for the SC is located behind the front grill and in front of the radiator. The flex-lite series 290 fans are in place of the stock fan.
Coming home today the ambient air temp was 113 and the trucks temp got up to 230-240. I pulled over and the fans were running so I continued home. Even after getting clear of stop and go traffic the trucks temp only dropped to 215 and remained there the rest of the way home, the fans were still running when I got home.
I guess I'm just concerned that the higher engine temps may be causing problems. I don't have any over heating issues when the ambient air temp is 80-100 but when it gets up to 113 and above I seam to be having a warming issue. so long as the fans run the truck is not over heating. I know +5 or 10 degree is probably not causing a problem. 230 and above has got me worried.

So my question, sorry that got a bit long winded. My question: Is there anything short of removing the SC and the inner cooler that I can have the service folks at the dealership try in an effort to get the operating temp of the truck back to its normal of 210? I've already been told that going to a 160-thermostat will not work or will cause problems during the winter months because the truck will never reach a normal operating temp.

My fear is that the inner cooler is blocking a good portion of the air trying to reach the radiator because of the H2's limited front grill area. Will changing to a different type of radiator help? Possibly going larger with the radiator? I don't know if that is possible the one that is there is a pretty tight fit as it is.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Bill:
Mine has the OE fan and the Air Conditioner has always frozen you out even on a day like today when it is 113 and climbing! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Sitting still idling @ 113*+ your A/C freezes you out?

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Xenowulf:
If I get on the freeway and keep it at 90-95
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I was going to ask where the hell you live where you drive 95. Then looked @ your location. LA. Makes sense. I used to drive the 210 thru Pasadena and could NEVER figure out how I could do 85+ in the left hand lane and ALWAYS some bastard needed to pass me. Jesus.