We used to take the damn thing off on our XJ Cherokees and I always disconencted my TJ one offroad.

Just wondering how it handles without one?

-C

That would be interesting. I bet it would help off road quite a bit. But on the other hand, i wonder how much tore stuff you would have.

Also, do you think you would over-extend the factory length shocks?

Na, that's only really a problem with coiled rear ends, even then a good metal shock like Old Man Emu acts like a limiting strap.

A leaf spring doesn't let everything fall away like a coil which I've had completely unseat by as much as 6" on the TJ

We used to throw the rear sway bar on an XJ since all it did was hinder flex. The additional body roll without it was negligable but it IS a lot lighter a vehicle, however, the H3 rear swaybar is pretty narrrow diameter so I'll wager the roll isn't too bad.

Who's going to be the first to try it

-C

my buddy has an XJ and told me to do it. If I did I would have to tweak the thing out in front of the house with a jack and check the limits. What do you say?

Don't think I want to volunteer to try the high speed cornering test with the rear sway bar removed . Note: rear sway bar looks small but it's solid (not hollow like the front).

S.

We used to do it with 6" lifted XJs with armor, winch and front and rear bumpers (adding over 500LBs) and didn't have any problems.

You get a little extra roll, but with the way the leafs are constructed, particularly being under axle, I really don't see it being a problem.

-C

How about something like this?http://www.amstarfun.com/accessories...ance&acc=00003

If only there was someplace you could buy them

I am going to try it for Moab!!

hmrlvr,

That's a disconnect for the FRONT dummie

We are talking about the leaf springs area in the REAR.

If you don't know the difference between front and back, don't be messin' with anything under there

LOL

I know nothing about sway bars or what they do. I just saw it and thought it may be helpful- dummie

If you know nothing - Confuscious advice KEEP FAWKIN MOUTH SHUT!

If you took this as advice, read it again. How about something like this? is more of a question than giving advice. But whatever, your sooo fuc--n intellegent I wouldn't dare try to give you advice.

Don't cry

I missed you, were you out getting dirty?

I know the thread is about the rear bar but the H3's wheel travel issues are not in the back there are in the front.....

What I would like to know is if anyone has disconnected the front sway bar and if it made any difference.

We tried to disconnect all of ours and put it on the ramp. It made it up another 5 inches (which is a lot), but the transfer case locked up. The issue is the transfer case has clutches in it since its AWD and I think it threw a sensor out of whack and was stuck. After we did it, it felt like the front brakes were stuck and would not come out of 4 lo. Luckily the dealer took care of it, but not sure if he would do it twice. I had to play stupid and swore it happened while I was driving on the road.

Might have to put an angled shim on the rear leaf pack to extend down more. The u-joint is close to being maxed at full droop.

I took that thing off in the rear and noticed a great inprovement in articulation. Tonight, I will have pics posted. The H3 stays stable and the suspension gets fully tweaked. On the road, it doesn't seem that bad. I don't reccomend it if that is your daily driver. THe body roll would be noticable for sure.

I saw that AMSTAR will be selling quick disconnects for the torsion bars. Do you know of any aftermarket company that has some that wil fit our rig? I would like to leave the rear off, but the front one has to be on for the road for sure.

I need to check the driveshaft for over extension. I don't need to be jumping the rig with the possibility of that happening.

g

The H3 is NOT an AWD system with clutches, it is a full time four wheel drive system. In an AWD system there are clutches that control the slippage between the non main drive wheels and the main drive wheels. In this system, it is in a 40/60 full time four wheel drive operation. The torque to the front wheel is NOT determined by clutches or slippage.
A planetary differential provides the 40/60 torque split front/rear full time, when switched to a LOCK mode, a high/low planetary carrier assembly provides the high and low ranges.
In normal four wheel drive mode, that is unlocked, the input shaft (small shaft under callout 203) is directly connected to a mainshaft (209) by the high/low sleeve (205). The teeth on the sleeve are engaged with the input shaft high speed teeth. The collar is slipped splined to the mainshaft and delivers the power flow to the planetary differential (231) which splits the torque with 40 percent to the front/60 percent to the rear differential gears. (Short version)
There is no set of spin clutches in this transfer case.
Not sure what happened, but you did not have clutches go out of whack, and if the dealer told you so, he has not disassembled this t/case.
Disconnecting the front sway bar should not have set off the driveline angles, so I'm not exactly sure what happened. But please, don't insult the H3 by saying it is an AWD system, it is a full time four wheel drive system, and there is a BIG difference between the two types of systems.

T/case internals...no clutches....