Hey there- Here is the info so we don't have to do the email thing. I don't have formal detailed instructions but I do have some tips on my approach. This was just hard work. No fancy jumper a few wires and you’re done kinda thing. Here you go:
First, I bought the lights wholesale. They are Cibie Tangos. I can provide them if you what to buy them. They are about $148 for two (+shipping). There are a few Cibie resellers in No. America that can sell them as well. Let me know.
Materials-
1 - std.four position relay, 1 - three position switch from Radio Shack. Lots of lugs, lots of flexible wire cover and lots of routing. Oh, and the two lights. Read on...
Switch mounting- Like others on the forum, I removed my rear wiper switch. You have to take the little bugger completely apart. Be careful not to disturb the wiper switch itself. It is way loose when you remove the front panel and has contacts, PCB, etc. I used a 7/8" wood bit to cut a hole in the plastic front. After a little filing, the switch fit perfectly. If you make sure the top square portion of the switch is just a hair below or even with the ridge channel between the wiper label and the lower blank area (see my picture), the switch will line up perfectly in the opening and allow your dash opening to clear the bottom of the switch. The switch was meant for this spot. Tip; As Buddy mentioned, you have to remove portions of the plastic body of the wiper switch housing in order to get that switch and three lugs to fit back together. I cut the plastic with snips until the cover and switch fit with wires. Not too much cutting but it doesn't fit without some trimming.
Wiring -
Routing the wires was a pain of course. I won’t bore you with this, but under the dash on the firewall, parallel with the brake peddle and about as far as a human hand can reach, is the main wire harness through-hole boot. From under the hood I punched a small hole through. I used some welding wire to come in through the engine compartment. I taped the wires to the welding wire and lubed them with some oil and pulled them through. The boot is double walled and thick. I sealed the wires at the boot with a rubber sealant. You only have to bring through the Load and Hot wire for the switch. The ground terminates under the dash to any metal screw.
For a hot wire, under the hood I removed the lower part of the fuse box (not the just the cap) the entire fuse box housing (it has four hand release points). Underneath is a cool set of terminal blocks with hot and accessory terminal. I used this for my Hot.
For a hot relay control wire, I tapped into my front left marker light which remains hot with the parking or headlights allowing the Cibie's to follow the same disciplines. I mounted the relay just above the horn in the front frame area. There is a hole just waiting to mount it there.
Okay, enough you say, what about mounting the lights....Let the pain begin. I started by removing the skid plate, the plastic bumper piece the DRL's were in and removed the metal bumper.
The following is a set of pictures to mount the lights.
[This message was edited by H2Norcal on 04-06-03 at 09:52 PM.]
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