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WPBGUY67

If you are looking to hard wire in a radar detector, I can tell you what I did, and it took only about fifteen minutes (not counting looking for the damn A-pillar screw I dropped onto the I/P and it bounced, and I spent another fifteen minutes looking for it before giving up, then later than night I found it in my shirt pocket).
Anyway, here is how I connected the Escort.
The driver's side A-pillar has a number of wires running down from the headliner. If you have a sunroof like I do, I located the Yellow wire, and tapped into it for the detector hot. This circuit is controlled by the BCM through a relay and is the RAP (retained accessory power) circuit. It is hot in run or accessory, and stays hot with the RAP feature. (The RAP stays energized for about 10 minutes after the ignition is turned Off, but will go dead when a door is open.)
For ground, I just tapped into a black ground wire and there are a few, so I tapped into the large one just below the connector. I used butt end connectors to do the connections.

Now, if you don't have a sunroof, I would recommend tapping into the dark blue/white wire that is the power feed t the electro chromatic mirror. This circuit is also hot in run or start, and will go dead when the ignition is turned off.

I would not recommend tapping into the orange wire, since this circuit is hot at all times, and the radar detector may stay on all the time. I say may, since this is also the courtesy lamp feed that is controlled by the BCM and if the BCM senses this circuit is hot twenty minutes after the engine is turned off, and there has been no door switch movement, it will shut down this circuit (called battery saver circuit). However, not sure if the very small drain of a radar detector would be sensed by the BCM.

I also would NOT tap into the light green/black circuit which would be hot in run or accessory. This is the BCM power feed to OnStar and no telling what would happen.

To remove the A-pillar molding, just remove the small plug in the center of the molding with a small screwdriver, then remove the phillips screw inside the molding. Then pull it back, and up from the I/P. Easy to remove and install, just watch that damn little screw.