[Scott D]

Well here's what happened today. I took Michael 1 advice and checked the ground, which made good sense. I pulled out my handy dandy grinder and put my sanding wheel on and sanded every single lights ground down to the bare metal on both sides to include the ground wire on the wiring harness with no change to my problem.
So I checked every single light to make sure it was wired correctly, and they were. Now I started to turn my anger and frustration to the U- Haul connector . I checked it once, twice even three times just to make sure because by this time I was starting to dout myself. It turns out the U-Hual connector was wired correctly and working like it should.

And to answer your question Fourfourto the connector was spliced into H3?s wiring harness. And your question F5fstop, the lights on the H3 work fine nothing funny. About the fast flashing the burned bulb theory did cross my mind, but I was leaning more toward the short in a wire theory because in my experience a burnt bulb would not flash just stay on. But that theory was not looking good either because I wasn?t blowing any fuses or burning out any lights, but it was a good idea. Oh and yes all the LEDs designed for direct replacement for a 12-volt bulb. Michael 1 my Utility trailer and my grandfathers trailers are all 6 round connectors so I couldn?t go that route.

So now I was out of ideas and options and dreading what I had to do next. Rewire the whole trailer. By the way the trailer frame is boxed. So there I go to the trailer shop and pick up 30ft of wire. On the way home I stopped by U-Haul and asked if I needed one of those special adaptors just to make sure, anything not to rewire the whole trailer, and the guy told me no not for what I had. I was ready to hook up directly to a four flat, Damm.

Once home I started gutting the trailer wire and what do you think I found. Yep, bare wires. I even found wires melted together. It seems like I located my problem. Apparently what happened is when I was doing my fabricating the Acetylene torch heated up the frame to where the wires in side the frame melted. I guess 2000 F will do that. I was super careful when I was welding to keep the splatter to a minimum to protect the exposed wires but never occurred to me about the wires inside the channel while using the torch. Well I guess I learned the hard way. I know for next time.

Needless to say I wired every thing up and all the lights work as the should. And the fast flashing is gone. Lights flash normal as they should. Which brings me to a question for F5fstop. I went to the auto parts store and tried to find a heavy duty flasher because before I knew about the bare wires I thought I had I weak flasher. Well nobody could find the darn thing. Not for a H1, H2, or H3. No flasher module seems to exist for the Hummer. I looked in the owners manual found nothing. So is the flasher some where other than the fuse block or is it controlled by the computer?

Any way I was pretty impressed that even with a short in the system I didn?t blow any fuses in the H3 or LED?s on the trailer and I still had running lights. With regular incandescent lights I would have blown many bulbs and fuses. I guess you could think of it as a safety feature for night time driving till you get home to fix the problem. Seems like LED?s are pretty durable.

Now that I had every thing working properly I yanked out that U-Haul plug and replaced it with a 7 round plug and put a 6 round receptacle on the trailer and everything works beautifully.

Well thanks to every one who chimed in to help me out. This site is great, lots of good info and great people.