One of the easier ways to see if you have the HVAC upgrade (though not foolproof) is by looking at the heater/AC controls on the dash... if they are the dial type GM looking ones with red and blue transition coloring around the outside, then you probably have an upgraded HVAC. If they are the digital LED readout type with a picture of a dude sitting in a chair on it, then you probably have the old original HVAC system (and brace yourself for future heater core failure and the expensive repair bills that accompany it!)
Once in a while, someone will have done their own upgrade, and you will see the original control panel on the upgraded system... but that is rare.
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Originally Posted by Prince50
Manny,
Thanks for the info.
Working backwards.
Air hammer will be next. I'm going to try to drill out the center and use a round punch in the divot I make. I think the chisel is spreading the stud and creating a rivet condition.
I will check the hose issue. I think that might solve the water issue. Since the body is aluminum it is not a great concern, but I will re-attach the hose if it has come undone.
I am not sure about the AC upgrade, pehaps you can tell me how to check.
The BUURRP was from the radiator overflow resevior cap being loose. It was on the first lock, but not the second. As the motor would heat up, it would push on the cap and release air. I uncapped it and about 2 gallons of anti-freeze (And some rust colored stuff too!) came out. I replaced the fluid, and it is running great with no BUURPP anymore.
Lift pump sounds about right, and it is just every once in awhile. Thanks.
I will check or replace the oil pressure sender. I felt that it might be faulty right from the start. I picked this up in Oxford, MS. I drove it 2,000 miles in the first 2.5 days without trouble. Brave? Stupid? Maybe both. The oil guage was like that right out of the gate. I drove home at 62 MPH just to be sure.
Gawd this thing is cool!
Thanks for the welcome.
Darin Prince
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