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Originally Posted by marius
In theory, how do you wire a trigger ? Do you need to use a 3 position switch , or a regular toggle , 2 position ?
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Relays work just like a switch -- i.e., connecting a power source (battery or unused fuse in the fuse box) to appliance (lights).
Except the "switch" part is not a mechanical toggle, but an electrical one -- triggered by a current (ie., your high-beam circuit, oem DRLs, marker lights, etc.).
The advantage is the electric current going to your appliance does not affect the trigger. So you can have a larger current from battery to your new 55W DRLs, without being concerned of burning out the existing oem DRL wiring trigger.
Another advantage is, being electrical, the Trigger can be interrupted by another Trigger (e.g., a physical toggle switch), forming a logic.
E.g. --> DRL OFF --> Switch On/off --> New lights OFF
--> DRL ON --> Switch On --> New lights ON
--> DRL ON --> Switch Off --> New lights Off
I installed extra backup lights on my H2, and actually uses 2 relays to form this logic:
Marker Light OFF --> Reverse Light On/off --> Extra backup light OFF
Marker Light ON --> Reverse Light On --> Extra backup light ON
Marker Light ON --> Reverse Light Off --> Extra backup light Off
That way, when I'm reversing during the day, my extra backup lights will NOT turn on (since the marker lights only turn on at nighttime).
Obviously, your power source could also be additionally controled, either by a (yet another) switch, or if your appliance uses low power -- by tapping existing oem circuits -- which could either be Always-On, Ignition-only-On, or RAP.
Make sense?
