Re: Optima Yellow Top Battery
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Originally Posted by [__--MUD--__]
put a yellowtop on my h2. Whatever the biggest is w/ the GM side terminals, think it 800cca. I'm damn completely dead if the truck sits for like 4-5 days. There is about .35 amp draw in the off position, which I personally think is high. I've pulled every damn fuse in the engine bay and interior and can't find anything really dramatic.
Anyone else know what their draw is in the off position? You have to wait for like 7 minutes from hookup for all the relays and **** to turn off. There is about 7 amp pull when you first hook up the battery or open a door. Hell that seems a bit high also...
I'm ready to get a second battery and throw'em both sideways. I know my yellowtop is good, i've tested it. Even swapped the yellow top in my trans am to the h2. Same ****.
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I have the exact same problem. I have a red top and a yellow top (2 battery system). After about 3-4 days, the yellow is DEAD. Good thing I can switch over to both and still get started without a jump.
It is a shame to pay that type of coin for a battery just to crap out within 6-8 months of purchase.
DUCK
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2003 H2, Lux & Adv Packages, Cognito 3" front suspension lift, Gobi Stealth Rack w/ Ladder, Navigation, twin Optima battery setup, AirRaid Intake, Granatelli Mass Air Flow Sensor, Flowmaster Big Block II Exhaust, Diablosport Predator Programmer,Cognito Pitman/Idler Arm Kit, Fabtech Tie Rods, Rancho RS 9000 shocks, Warn bumper and 9.5x winch, Warn light bar, PIAA's everywhere (14), everything blacked out, and rollin' on 39.5" Super Swamper IROKs on black powdercoated stock wheels.
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