Quote:
Originally posted by cestwick:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by HummBebe:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by HummBebe:
I don't think we can do that on the three's, has something to do with the computer thingy.
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Bet you can, even if you have to start pulling fuses until it works. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Ok, we discussed that on the trail with the HUMMER mechanic.....I called him 2 seconds after I was off the trail....to order parts :-)
He mentioned that Stabilitrac would/could prevent the whole vehicle from operating if disabled.
That was honestly the first thing I thought of, I just wanted to go home
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>You can simply pull the half shafts and front driveline without pulling any fuses.
All of the traction control, Stabilitrack and ABS runs off of the wheel speed sensors and maybe a sensor at the output shafts of the t-case.
If you are moving the wheels are are all turning and the computer doesn't know if power is going to the front or not. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I'm not sure if any of you have ever pulled a front shaft on the H3 but it isn't the simplest job to do. You basically have to pull the front knuckles off to get the shaft out. Also I'm not 100% positive about the H3 at this time but I do know that on most GM 4x4's the outer joint assembly is what holds the hub/bearing togather and is actually suposed to be tightened to 191 ft lbs. I have seen where the drive shaft nut wasn't tightened and the bearing went out in a very short period. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Not easy that is for sure. However, there are four large bolts securing the hub to the knuckle and these bolts are torqued at 180 N.m each. The tire is then attached to the hub. I have never tried it, but the vehicle should be able to be driven without shafts.
The shaft torque is actually 235 N.m (ball buster). The torque is high since the shaft is fairly large.
I may just try this, because I'm not too sure if you really have to remove the knuckle completely. You might (as someone stated) be able to remove the tie bar and get enough swing on the knuckle to slide the shaft out. Happen to have a Hummer on the rack with the cylinder head out.
Maybe if the shafts were weaker, the shaft would go before the diff.
(Then we could call it a Jeep
)
I guess, if you had a metal saw, and didn't mind the extra 200 or so for the shafts, cut 'em and remove. That would be an easy job.