<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ree:
Sounds like we went in a circle.
For Jesse to wire the stereo sound system to the second battery (isolated from the startger battery) he's going to want to leave all of the main fusebox connected to the primary battery. But then needs to do what Phil suggested and move the RADIO and RDO AMP circuits off the main fuse box and hook directly (fused that is) to the second battery. Are these two circuits sufficient to move the entire sock sound system off the main battery? It looks like all the others are unrelated to sound.
This seems much simpler than connecting the second battery to the engine-compartment fuse box and coping with any computer related starting issues. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>No, I don't think that's what has just been said at all. You isolate the batteries so that when a draw occurs everything except for the starter draws from one battery. Then, upon start, they are combined for extra available cranking amps as well as providing power for the electronics should one have drained the main battery completely dead.
You could have the "switch" to the combiner portion controlled by an actual in-cab switch or even power from the ignition circuit, so that when you turn the key to start, it locks up the solenoid and provides power from both batteries.
At any rate, I would suggest buying one of the isolator/combiner kits if you are going to do the dual battery deal. You also want to isolate the batteries from each other during the charging and there is no real way to easily do this without utilizing one of their kits.
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