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Old 09-04-2005, 01:52 PM
rodster rodster is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Vegas
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George -- I think most of these copied posts were originally written by PhilD and LasVegas.

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On the right hand side and 1st WTF on the left; that is just conduit, once I connected the wires to the ones pre-wired on the rack, I just slipped them all inside the conduit and trimmed them to length.

I utilized the existing roof bar wiring I had, which has three wires, one for each set of lights and one for ground. I switched these around and used the ground for the rear lights, so needed an additional ground, which is another WTF. The final one is the three way connector that connects to the roof bar wiring harness.

http://elcova.com/eve/ubb.x/a/tpc/f/.../981100035/p/3

I cut up the wiring harnesses that came with the lights and also used a lot of my own wire. I retained the light connectors, as I like to able to disconnect and remove a light if the need arises.

I haven't gor around to taking any pics yet, but here's something I quickly wrote for someone else;

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There is nothing difficult about doing the lights, but it is time consuming.

I cut up the harnesses supplied with my lights and put together a wiring harness, still retaining the connectors, so I can easily remove a light if need be. I used the shrink down connectors that work like a normal crimp connector, then used a little propane torch to shrink the tubing down and seal them. I know you should really solder joints, but I've used these before and never had any problems.

Once the harness for the four front lights was complete (including the wiring for the rear lights which are prewired front to rear by Gobi). I covered the whole thing in conduit. I have two lights running off each relay.

Everything goes through the drivers side marker light. If you remove the light, one screw, you will see where the light wires go through a rubber grommet, I simply punnched a hole through it and ran all my wires through that, and then used some black marine silicone to seal it all up again. The wires exit on top at the rear of the light, there is a space there for them to come through. Trying to get them through to the cab is a little tricky as they have to go through a hollow section and then out a small hole. I removed the door seal at the Top (which is all sticky so be careful where you put your hands afterwards), and very gently pulled the roof liner down enough to see where the wires come through.

Use a screwdriver to gently pry the inserts on the a-pillar handle out, they are bit tough the first time, but get easier. The handle will then come off and so will the a-pillar cover.

You can then run all your wires down inside the a-pillar. remove the fuse panel cover and you can route the wires behind the dash and out the bottom of it.

I mounted my relays along the bottom dash rail on the top inside edge. I ran power direct from the battery to them. There is a big rubber seal up above where your left foot kind of sits, again I just punched holes through it and sealed it with marine silicone. It comes out down and behind the main fues box in the engine bay.

I have my switches on the overhead console. I removed the console and used a fish tape across the head lining and over to the top of the drivers door (still with the rubber trim removed and fed the wires back up the a-pillar and acroos the head lining to the center console.

I took the feed for the switches from the SEO ACCY fuse using a proper fuse tap, (one with two fuses, the original and an extra fuse for the tap). This is ignition switched so you can't leave your lights on when you turn the ignition off and is also not used for anything else.

That is pretty much it, it sounds more complicated than it is. But Like I said it is time consuming. Take your time, don't rush, and if you get stuck, take a break and just think about it for a moment. Use conduit on all exterior/engine compartment wires, fuse anything that is direct from the battery, and make good joints. Time spent prepping the wiring and knowing where it is all going to run is time well spent.

It took me four hours or so, but by the time I'd ran to store a couple of times, it was pretty much an all day job.

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My relays for all the rack lights are bolted to the rail that runs along the bottom of the dash area. Where possible I like to have relays inside the cab. This is where the stock relays also go for the roof bar lights.

Like I said, it isn't difficult, just time consuming. But, it is better to spend more time making sure everything is done right, than to spend time trying to figure out why something doesn't work.

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Phil has his 2 front outside lights on one relay, the 2 front inside on another and then the rear on a third, I think according to his post. You should have gotten a relay with each pair of lights, but again I don't know anything about your setup either. On wiring though, better safe than sorry.
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